Doing a Full Bust Adjustment on Vogue 8789 took me four muslins.
While prepping for my #EasterSpringDress2017 sewing challenge (thanks for organizing it, Akram and Judith Dee!), I came to the realization that doing pattern drafting of any kind shouldn’t be a headache: it should be fun. Its as integral in the sewing process as picking out the perfect fabric and gets put down because it can be so tricky!
I decided to do a similar fitting video as I did for my Gertie B6453 Sew Along (which, btw, there are still videos coming up!) Of course, everyone does their fitting a bit different, but my personal process is in my video.
To get the ball rolling on Vogue V8789, get your tools ready:
- Rulers (clear straight ruler, french curve)
- Dot paper (or tracing paper)
- Mechanical pencil and eraser
- Tape dispenser
Also take a few minutes to watch my relevant the Youtube videos:
Before sewing Muslin #1:
- Measure out your High Bust to pick out your size
- Determine the amount of ease between your measurements and the pattern
- Stitch CF/CB and waist line seam in colored thread for easy identification
- Draw lines for petite/short waist adjustments (if lengthening the pattern, do this step as well!)
Muslin #1: Determine what’s wrong!
For my Vogue 8789, I could see right away that there were four main issues, which for me and my body shape, are pretty standard.
- The length of the bodice was ridiculous on me. In the above photo, I had pinned up how much I needed to shorten the length.
- Swayback adjustment was absolutely necessary.
- The shoulder width needed to be adjusted to my shoulder width.
- And of course, I needed a full bust adjustment that would be addressed in Muslin #2.
I prefer to address as many “small” changes before addressing a full bust adjustment (FBA). FBAs deserve their own muslin.
There are already so many changes that need to be done during a FBA that trying to figure out anything else can make the process confusing. One step at a time, please!
Muslin 2: Take Care of that Full Bust Adjustment
As seen in the video, measure out the distance between your CF seam and your body’s center front. In my case, the distance was 1.5″, which I then translated out to my muslin. The FBA portion of my video starts at timestamp 9:30.
Because of the design of this pattern, the side dart that pops open to accommodate the FBA needs to be rotated to the center dart. Please see timestamp at 11:55.
Muslin #3 and #4: Reposition your Darts towards your Bust Point
Moving the bust dart to the correct position is covered at timestamp 13:55.
Of course, this step can be completed at muslin #2, but as I’m a “one step at a time” sort of gal, I did this last. At this point, you’re more easily able to get a real grasp of how the garment is going to fit and you’re able to make a more educated decision of where and how to move the bust point.
My completed Vogue 8789 looks fantastic.
Looking at how the dart sits, I probably would have finished the darts more cleanly, but overall I’m still extremely happy with the fit.
To follow along on this project, be sure to watch the How to Sew video!