Category: Seamwork Magazine

  • How to Sew a Wrap Top (tutorial): The Seamwork Kristin!

    How to Sew a Wrap Top (tutorial): The Seamwork Kristin!

    Thinking of dipping your toe into sewing? Learn how to sew a wrap top with this tutorial! | Vintage on Tap

    Into 1960s casual fashion? Learn how to sew a wrap top with this tutorial!

    Even though I’m a vintage sewing blogger, 1960s is not a decade I normally dip my toe into, but this Seamwork Magazine Kristin top was too cute to resist! Super simple, accessible, and straight forward was exactly what I was into when I decided to stitch this tank up.

    I originally made this top for my trip to Italy back in June, and got to wear this top at Vatican City!

    The most attractive thing about learning how to sew a wrap top is just how easy and flattering it is.

    Especially if you’re making up a wardrobe for vacation or a quick weekend getaway. Having something that you know will look good, won’t take you longer than a couple hours from start to finish, and is something you can just throw on– it takes casual sewing to another level.

    Thinking of dipping your toe into sewing? Learn how to sew a wrap top with this tutorial! | Vintage on Tap

    Learn how to sew with Vintage on Tap Youtube videos! Full tutorial walkthroughs to make a wardrobe at home! | Vintage on Tap

    Learn how to sew with Vintage on Tap Youtube videos! Full tutorial walkthroughs to make a wardrobe at home! | Vintage on Tap

    Step One: Be mindful of the fabric you want to use to sew a wrap top!

    As with all sewing projects, being mindful the fabric you chose to work with will have a huge impact on the sort of results you’ll be getting from the Seamwork Kristin.

    Check your swatch book for sample fabrics that fit the feel and hand you want to achieve.

    How to sew a wrap top, the Seamwork Kristin video tutorial | Vintage on Tap

    In my case, I decided to use a linen fabric from MyFabricDesigns, which had a stiffer hand (discussed at minute 1:10 in the tutorial video.) I wanted to purposefully go with a stiffer fabric to give my wrap top more of a trapeze top feeling to it, and flare out at the hem.

    Other possible fabrics for a trapeze-style wrap top include mid- to heavyweight wovens, including chambray, denim, and linen blends. Keep in mind that to get a look more closely resembling the original Seamwork Magazine Kristin design, you’ll want to use a light- to midweight woven. 

    Learn how to make this tank wrap top with a full sewing video tutorial! | Vintage on Tap

    Learn how to make this wrap crop top! Sewing video tutorial | Vintage on Tap

    Step Two: Incorporate sewing techniques you’re already comfortable with into the instructions

    Sewing instructions are not the holy grail of an individual pattern! When attempting to sew a wrap top- or ANY pattern- take a moment to decide what parts of the instructions you want to play with or tweak to something you’re more comfortable with sewing.

    In sewing this individual wrap top, I decided to opt for using a bias facing throughout the edges, rather than encasing everything in bias binding. I cover this in the tutorial video at 2:54.

    Bias facings tend to look more professional and I prefer the clean crisp look from the exterior of the piece.

    To learn more in depth information about bias facings, please check out the technique video!

    How to Sew a Bias Facing, video tutorial | Vintage on Tap

    The only garment in recent memory that encased seams in bias bindings was my Simplicity 8085 1950s wrap dress.

    In this dress, I purposefully wanted an encased seam look, which lended itself to being a super homemade look. Of course, I could have just as easily done bias facings on this 1950s dress, just as I did on the Seamwork Kristin.

    Click here to learn how to make this 1950s dress!

    Bodice close up, bias binding and Esterwilder pin on Britex Fabric Italian watercolor cotton | @vintageontap

    Step Three: Keep track of the front and back of each piece.

    With wrap tops- especially wrap tops like the Seamwork Kristin, it can be extremely confusing to keep track of each pattern piece. Notches absolutely help and are highly recommended to transfer over from your pattern pieces.

    The above tip is extremely useful if you’re making a top in a solid color where it’s difficult to tell the front and back.

    How to sew a wrap top, the Seamwork Kristin video tutorial | Vintage on Tap

    Want to sew this pattern?

    The Seamwork Magazine Kristin is available via the Seamwork website!

    Click here to buy the pattern!

    1960s inspired crop wrap top! Learn how to sew this wrap top at home! | Vintage on Tap

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    How to sew a wrap top, the Seamwork Kristin tank top! Step by step video tutorial! | Vintage on Tap
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  • Seamwork Magazine Astoria Sweater, Tips for Busty Ladies

    Seamwork Magazine Astoria Sweater, Tips for Busty Ladies

    Seamwork Magazine Astoria Sweater | Vintage on Tap

    The Astoria Sweater was a joy to sew.

    I honestly loved how quickly the Astoria sweater came together and how it fit me so comfortably, but there are definitely things busty ladies need to know if they’re taking on this project.

    This is especially true if you’re into pinup style and vintage sewing: you’re going to want a specific fit and silhouette from this sweater.

    Astoria sweater by Seamwork Magazine introduction | @vintageontap

    It has been about a year since I made this Seamwork Magazine pattern.

    In the past year, I admit it: I rode this sweater hard. It’s been thrown around, washed to heck and back, but would I make it again? Absolutely. Its on my to-do list in a black double knit, a thinner white knit, and maybe a coral textured knit, just for fun.

    Seamwork Magazine Astoria Sweater | Vintage on Tap

    Would I do things differently in the next iteration of this Astoria sweater? Damn right I would.

    So let’s get down to my tips for this gorgeous piece (including my tips for the pinup girls out there who tend to be a little bit more busty)– all in the name of having you avoid the mistakes I made!

    Seamwork Magazine Astoria Sweater | Vintage on Tap

    Tip #1: Don’t skip out on the Full Bust Adjustment (FBA)

    Yes, you read that correctly. This Seamwork pattern is billed as a quick-sew, with 5 pieces (front, back, collar, sleeve, and waistband)– but if you’re like me and have anything larger than a C-cup, there will be pulling from the sleeve to your full bust point.

    You can see in the above images, that while the sweater fits, it was awkward. I thought I wouldn’t care. One year later, and it was still awkward and I cared.

    Seamwork Magazine Astoria Sweater, full bust adjustment tips | Vintage on Tap

    Luckily, I’ve made a video specifically about this topic and covering this very garment

    Due to such a huge demand in fitting videos, I figured it was time to tackle the no dart full bust adjustment and just do the necessary changes! Full written out tips for this process are covered on the blog post dedicated to this particular full bust adjustment.

    Read The No-Dart Full Bust Adjustment Tutorial!

    Seamwork Magazine Astoria Sweater | Vintage on Tap

    Tip #2: The Astoria Seamwork sweater is cropped. And I mean VERY cropped.

    If you’ve had the opportunity to see any of my pattern drafting videos, you know that I’m short (5’2”) and have a short torso.

    This sweater barely went to my waist, being this awkward “in between” length that didn’t sit right over jeans, but was also too short to tuck into skirts. For a vintage girl like myself, tucking a sweater in is vital to “the look” and I would gladly lengthen this sweater by at least 1.5in/3.8cm.

    Seamwork Magazine Astoria Sweater, full bust adjustment tips | Vintage on Tap

    Tip #3: Baste the side seams before sewing them together, to double check the silhouette.

    The photos of people’s projects for the Seamwork Astoria can be pretty hit-or-miss with the silhouette. For some people, it fit snug and a beautiful hourglass shape was created. For others (including myself)- I ended up looking like a sack.

    Shortly after the photoshoot, I did a hack-job on the waistband and tapered in the waist of my Astoria sweater by 3/4in/2cm on each side, which made it wearable, but not the standard I strive for in my sewing.

    Please take the time to baste the side seams before you commit to the silhouette, especially if you’re into pinup sewing.

    Astoria sweater by Seamwork Magazine introduction, back view | @vintageontap

    As I wrote at the beginning of the post, I’m definitely looking forward to giving this sweater some redemption, by looking at it with new eyes and new fabric. Especially here in San Francisco where the weather is consistently chilly/windy/cloudy, these sorts of sweaters are used year round.

    Astoria sweater by Seamwork Magazine introduction, working on the sweater | @vintageontap

    Have you made the Astoria sweater? What did you think of the fit? What would you do differently in your next Seamwork Astoria?


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