• Email
  • Instagram
  • Pinterest
  • Twitter
  • YouTube
  • Skip to primary navigation
  • Skip to main content
  • Skip to primary sidebar
  • Skip to footer
  • START HERE
  • Tops
    • Butterick
    • Simplicity
    • Seamwork Magazine
    • Patterns by Gertie
    • View All
  • Dresses
    • Butterick
    • McCall’s
    • Vintage Vogue
    • Simplicity
    • Colette Patterns
    • Patterns by Gertie
    • View All
  • Skirts
    • Tribe Patterns
    • Self Drafted
    • View All
  • Outerwear
    • Butterick
    • Seamwork Magazine
    • Papercut
    • View All
  • Lingerie
    • Seamwork Magazine
    • Vintage Pattern Selector
    • View All
  • Accessories
    • McCall’s
    • Self Drafted
    • View All
  • Bust Adjustments
    • Darts
    • Gathers
    • Princess Seams
    • View All
  • Techniques & Tips
    • Pattern Drafting
    • Machine Techniques
    • Hand Sewing
    • Other Tips
    • Resource Lists
    • Tools
    • View All

Vintage on Tap

  • START HERE
  • Tops
    • Butterick
    • Simplicity
    • Seamwork Magazine
    • Patterns by Gertie
    • View All
  • Dresses
    • Butterick
    • McCall’s
    • Vintage Vogue
    • Simplicity
    • Colette Patterns
    • Patterns by Gertie
    • View All
  • Skirts
    • Tribe Patterns
    • Self Drafted
    • View All
  • Outerwear
    • Butterick
    • Seamwork Magazine
    • Papercut
    • View All
  • Lingerie
    • Seamwork Magazine
    • Vintage Pattern Selector
    • View All
  • Accessories
    • McCall’s
    • Self Drafted
    • View All
  • Bust Adjustments
    • Darts
    • Gathers
    • Princess Seams
    • View All
  • Techniques & Tips
    • Pattern Drafting
    • Machine Techniques
    • Hand Sewing
    • Other Tips
    • Resource Lists
    • Tools
    • View All
    • Email
    • Instagram
    • Pinterest
    • Twitter
    • YouTube

How it Works: Anatomy of a Full Bust Adjustment

November 18, 2018

Video tutorial for how to understand a full bust adjustment! | Vintage on Tap, Retro and Sewing Youtube Channel

Do you know how to do a full bust adjustment?

The full bust adjustment (FBA) is not for the faint of heart. If you’re brand new to sewing, it can seem like a confusing mess.

The lines, slash and spread, and blending of curves can seem weird and nonsensical, and heaven forbid the adjustments need to be done on a non-conventional bodice! I remember that fear very well!

As a sewing blogger, I receive countless questions regarding FBAs on all sorts of patterns, but when it comes down to it, the adjustment is standard. If you know the principles of how to do this pattern adjustment, and how to approach it, you’ll be able to tackle some of the trickier garments!

Vintage Slip Empire Waist Full Bust Adjustment | @vintageontap

Before discussing the Anatomy of an FBA…

Evaluate if you indeed need to perform one!

Not every pattern needs a full bust adjustment, even if you’re full busted.

I’m a big proponent of sewing the pattern straight from the envelope, before making a decision on the sorts of adjustments that change the foundation pattern.

Why?

  • Sewing the standard size will give you an idea of how the pieces come together in general (not related to the FBA, but to understanding the garment)
  • It’ll allow you to confirm whether the ease of the garment is right for you (the ease could potentially affect the size of the FBA)
  • You’ll also be able to see if the FBA really will be needed for a better fit at the bust and arm scythe

How to do a full bust adjustment, Vogue 8789 | Vintage on Tap

I go into depth about my fitting process on my YouTube channel, where I have a dedicated playlist for Full Bust Adjustments.

Video tutorials for understanding and doing full bust adjustments! Watch this playlist for tips on sewing your favorite pieces! | Vintage on Tap Pinup Sewing Blog

Click to watch the FBA video tutorial playlist!

 

Another resource I recommend checking out is the Sewing Out Loud Podcast (STOP! Before you FBA), which dives deep into some of the current rhetoric around how Full Bust Adjustments are being used as sewing cure-alls. (HINT: they are NOT a fitting cure-all!)

Video tutorial for how to understand a full bust adjustment! | Vintage on Tap, Retro and Sewing Youtube Channel


Tools to Complete a Full Bust Adjustment

Before getting started doing an FBA, make sure you have your tools handy!

Recommended Sewing Tools by Vintage on Tap

Paper Scissors – Sharp, simple, nothing fancy. I prefer one with a comfortable handle, which is easy to skimp on, but makes a difference long term.

Transparent Gridded Ruler – Look for one which is thin and flexible, which can bend around curves for pattern drafting. A regular ruler works fine, but transparent rulers will make your life easier with seam allowances, etc.

Tape – I recommend 3M Magic tape, which allows you to draw over and erase graphite.


Anatomy of an FBA, How it works and how to perform the adjustment | Vintage on Tap, Pinup and Sewing Blog

Breaking down How a Full Bust Adjustment Works

The standard FBA features three lines, as outlined in the tutorial video.

Line One: Through the center of the primary dart, straight to the bust point.

This line dissects the dart in two, and allows for a bigger “tent” to be made in your fabric. Adjusting the overlap of the dart will adjust how much the fabric will fit over the cup.

Line Two: Parallel to the center front, straight down to the bottom of the bodice, starting at the bust point. 

This line will allow the front bodice to be widened, creating for a wider space for the bust fit comfortably. NOTE: Most patterns are drafted to a B-Cup, and cup sizes above C-cup will need a little bit more space to be comfortable. The widening of the bodice adjusts the waist size as well, as widening at this line changes all measurements below the bust point.

Line Three: Bust point to last third of arm scythe.

The final line creates space for the “side boob”, spreading open space under the armpit. The exactly placement of this line is a general “final third” of the arm scythe, which is vague, as its specific placement isn’t specifically important. This line used as more of a pivot point. NOTE: The upper 2/3 of the arm scythe should be avoided as much as possible. Drafting this line out in the 2/3 or above area will start to distort the area above the bust, including the neckline, shoulders, sleeves, and fabric that sits above the bust.

How does a full bust adjustment work? This video tutorial will walk you through how the adjustment works | Vintage on Tap Pinup Sewing Blog

What’s happening on the pattern?

As you spread the pattern pieces apart, a few different things are occurring:

The Center Front of the pattern piece stays exactly the same.

  • The Center Front of the bodice front is staying stationary, as all pieces are pivoting around it.
  • The Center Front piece will need to be lengthened, depending on the amount of the FBA, to match the Side Front (see below.)

Line One, which bisects the primary dart, opens to create a larger “tent” for the bust. 

  • A larger dart means there’s more space for the breast to sit forward comfortably.

The Side Front of the bodice lowers due to the main dart getting larger (at Line One.)

  • With the Side Front lowering, it creates an offset with the Center Front, as noted above.
  • The Center Front should match the Side Front, which is accurately accommodating the bust lengthwise (up and over the bust.)

Line Two, which splits the Center Front and Side Front, spreads apart the distance of the full bust adjustment.

  • The spreading of Line Two creates width in the pattern below the bust point.
  • The pattern is widening to accommodate the width of the breast.
  • The waist measurement is expanded an equal amount.
  • Ideally, the addition of space created by Line Two should reduce pulling at the sleeve and armpit, directly perpendicular to the bust point.
    • Note: The pulling is generally created by the fabric straining to accommodate the bust, pulling at the seams of the sleeve/armpit area and smooshing the bust down.

How does a full bust adjustment work? This video tutorial will walk you through how the adjustment works | Vintage on Tap Pinup Sewing Blog

Look for Pattern Distortions when Completing an FBA

Pattern Distortion #1: Center Front to Side Front

As discussed above, the Center Front should be lengthened to match the Side Front.

Warning! Simply drawing the Center Front line to square off with the Side Front and “lengthen it” doesn’t always work! If your pattern is not a simple bodice, on the fold, with a square edge, follow my pattern adjustment tutorial video by cutting a few inches from the Center Front piece and MOVING IT DOWN. The hem of the bodice may not always be straight, and this avoids accidental distortions.

How to use a French Curve, blending pattern pieces | Vintage on Tap

Pattern Distortion #2: Mismatch on pattern true-ing

Areas that will need a look over include:

  • The hem (see above)
  • The dart itself
  • How the front pattern piece fits against the back pattern piece
  • The armhole (see below)

See my tutorial video to understand how to fix this distortion, How to Walk a Sewing pattern.

Pattern Distortion #3: Armhole

Line Three will create a pivot point at the armhole, and by completing the FBA, the pivot point pinches into the armhole. Use your French curve to correct the armhole by drawing a simple and gentle curve. (See: How to Use a French Curve)

How to use a French Curve, blending curves in armhole | Vintage on Tap

Full Bust Adjustments can be intimidating, but they don’t have to be.

As you practice doing FBAs, the more complicated bodices operate in the same way. They add width for the bust line, they add length (up and over the bust), and they add a little extra for the side-boob.

Need a little bit more Full Bust Adjustment help? Check out the videos below!

For FBAs on tops with No Dart:

No Dart Full Bust Adjustment Tutorial | Vintage on Tap

To learn about how to shift and rotate your darts:

Intro to Dart Rotation | Vintage on Tap

Want MORE sewing tips and advice?

Get my sewing tips, advice, tutorials, and encouragement right in your inbox!

Success! Now check your email to confirm your subscription.

There was an error submitting your subscription. Please try again.

Powered by ConvertKit

Subscribe to Vintage on Tap on YouTube!

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links :)

All the Places, All the Stuff!

Never miss a post by following me on Bloglovin’!
Or go mobile- I’m on Instagram and YouTube!
New to sewing? Check out the Start Here page!

Filed Under: Bust Adjustments, Darts, Pattern Drafting, Techniques & Tips Tagged With: french curve, full bust adjustment

You might also love

  • Red t-shirt, pointing at pulling due to needing a full bust adjustmentHow To: No-Dart Full Bust Adjustment [2022 Update]
  • Video Tutorial, Fitting Vintage Butterick 6282
  • How to use a French Curve, tutorial | Vintage on TapHow to Use a French Curve, Video Tutorial!
  • Butterick B5821, Lining a Coat Using Vintage Techniques | Vintage on TapSewing Vintage Linings, Butterick B5824 [Collab + Video]
Gratefulness as a Sewing Blogger »
« How to Sew a Beautiful Vintage 1950s Peplum

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Emily Kitsch says

    November 19, 2018 at 9:30 am

    Yay! Thank you for this post and video! I’ve never learned to do a FBA because in my case, I actually need a SBA (another adjustment I have yet to properly learn! Yikes!). But I’m going to be making clothes for my sister who will definitely require FBAs done on the patterns, so I knew I needed to take the bull by the horns and learn, so this is just what I need right now! I always enjoy watching your videos and learning from you and I’m really excited to learn to do FBAs now, thanks to you! :D

    Reply

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

Primary Sidebar

My name is Bianca, I'm 34 years old, and a California girl through and through 🏖

I inspire people to sew, to feel comfortable and confident in their bodies, and am an avid lover of tiki culture and Vintage Style Not Vintage Values!

Discover More Vintage Sewing

Simplicity 8252, completed vintage and pinup dress| @vintageontap
Why Slow Sewing = Sewing Better
Vintage Vogue 9280 is a gorgeous dress. Learn how to fit this 1948 retro dress. | Vintage on Tap
How to Fit the 1948 Vintage Vogue 9280!
Organizing your sewing patterns, digitally and storing correctly | @vintageontap
Organizing your Sewing Patterns, How to Video

Fitting and Full Bust Adjustment, Simplicity 1364 | Vintage on Tap
Full Bust Adjustment + Fitting Simplicity 1364 How To!
Butterick B5821, Lining a Coat Using Vintage Techniques | Vintage on Tap
Sewing Vintage Linings, Butterick B5824 [Collab + Video]
Laughing, setting up a sewing machine
Critical Sewing First Steps

ARCHIVES

CATEGORIES

POPULAR POSTS

This is the Colette Rue dress made with supplies purchased at Mood Fabrics | @vintageontap

The Colette Rue Dress

Rago Shapewear Girdle, Pinup Weightloss as a Seamstress | @vintageontap

Weightloss as a Seamstress, Revisted

Organizing your sewing patterns, digitally and storing correctly | @vintageontap

Organizing your Sewing Patterns, How to Video

How to Sew a Kickpleat, Completed Kickpleat| @vintageontap

How to Sew a Kickpleat

Footer

Copyright © 2023 · LBD Pro V on Genesis Framework · WordPress · Log in

To those who eat the Turkey, hope you have a good To those who eat the Turkey, hope you have a good one 🦃 To those who rage against the Turkey, that too 🕊️⁠
⁠
Spending today at home recovering from illness and rage watching the World Cup. Typical us. ⁠
⁠
From our house to yours 💝
Oh hey. I made a Reel! (This is what happens when Oh hey. I made a Reel! (This is what happens when I’m stuck in bed sick 😷!)⁠
⁠
Last week I posted this trench coat on my channel and I’m still OBSESSED. Fits like a glove, makes me feel my 1940s fantasy, and sooooo warm and cozy. ⁠
⁠
Check it out, if you’re subscribed to the channel.⁠
⁠
And in the mean time, I will continue to debate whether or not I want to commit to a “IG Reels Strategy” as the internet keeps telling me I should do 🫡 ⁠
⁠
⁠
#falloutfit #1940sfashion #madewithmood #vintagesewing
Oh hey. There's a new video on the channel this pa Oh hey. There's a new video on the channel this past week about me making this hat, my last summer project of the year 😎⁠
⁠
If you wanna see my adventures trying to figure out how the heck snaps work, it's on the 'tube 😬!!⁠
⁠
#seamworkmeg #marysunhat #sewingblogger
We out here in these streets, sewing pretty clothe We out here in these streets, sewing pretty clothes and attempting to not fall mid-chola pose 🙏🏻⁠
⁠
👗 I made a @seamwork Meg dress with blue/white gingham shirting material which was perfect for a late summer look~ ⁠
⁠
Simple to sew and no fitting adjustments!! Forever appreciative that Seamwork's curvy pattern block nearly always fits me perfectly! ⁠
⁠
Might make a second for my birthday next month- we'll see 😉⁠
⁠
#sewingblogger ⁠
Six years on YouTube. Thousands of views and a hun Six years on YouTube. Thousands of views and a hundred videos... but still trying, still learning. Still full of excitement that I get to do this ❤️⁠
⁠
And insanely grateful that you're along for the ride 😎⁠
⁠
Thanks everyone for all your support viewing and commenting on my latest video- especially after 365 days since my last published tutorial, it's just amazing how much y'all are turning out to view it! ⁠
⁠
Did I answer all your no-dart FBA questions? Are you still curious to learn more? Does this video need... a follow up 😮?!⁠
⁠
Let me know down below!⁠ (and if you wanna watch the video, it's linked in my bio~)⁠
⁠
#smallyoutuber #sewingblogger #jefamoves #selfdiscoveryjourney #knowyourpower
Back to back meetings, coffee in my mug, but embra Back to back meetings, coffee in my mug, but embracing those 60s vibes 🌊⁠
⁠
New sewing video coming out this weekend and SO EXCITED for it. Been working super hard to get my old videos ready for publishing again. ⁠
⁠
Coming soon, to a YouTube channel near you... (aka, mine!) ⁠
⁠
🎥 No Dart FBAs, revisited! Answering all the questions that people have left me since 2017 😲⁠
⁠
🎥 Petite Adjustments! For us shorties!⁠
⁠
🎥 Sewing through body changes - Requested time and time again and finally tackling it! ⁠
⁠
Really looking forward to publishing again- it's been too long 😭⁠
⁠
If you're not subscribed, click through my Link in Bio 🏁⁠
⁠
#sewingforme #workfromhomestyle #rockabillygirl #jefamoves
⁠
"The Process is about doing the right things, righ "The Process is about doing the right things, right now. Not worrying about what might happen later, or the results, or the whole picture." ⁠
⁠
Credit: The Obstacle is the Way⁠
⁠
I've been doing a lot of reading about Stoicism over the last month and it's honestly been a really amazing "unlock" as I start posting more and *gasp* put out a new video later on this week.⁠
⁠
When started the project "Vintage on Tap", I would question every sewing project, every photo, every video, every idea, to the point of straight indecision and Analysis Paralysis. It's why I'd stop posting after a while, or why I'd stop taking pictures or even dressing up in the clothes that make me feel the most Me.⁠
⁠
Quotes like the one I shared really encapsulate the attitude I'm taking with a lot of things. ⁠
⁠
👗 Do what I can, right now. Do I control it? Take action with it. Am I spending more time thinking about the problem rather than solving the problem? Yikes!⁠
⁠
👗 Dress.Up. It's honestly one of the things that makes me feel the most like myself. Without my "drag" I don't feel like Bianca 😘⁠
⁠
👗Sew all the things. Seriously, the bug bit me again and I already have new projects to make on my sewing cart. And spending time with a thread and needle is healing magic.⁠
⁠
So ya. New video coming this week. Stay tuned (and follow on the 'Tube!) ⁠
⁠
⁠
#vintagesewing #sewingblogger #1950sfashion #modernpinup #vintagefloral #sewvintage #pinupofinstagram #vintageenthusiast
Beautiful things I brought back from the UK ✈️ Beautiful things I brought back from the UK ✈️⁠
⁠
🇬🇧 Liberty of London and V&A Museum archive pattern books. It was *extremely* important to me to purchase them... to observe the prints and patterns, to read the detailed historical notes, and to add to my creative and sewing library. I know I'll reference these over and over again in the future.⁠
⁠
🇬🇧 Liberty of London fabrics. HUGE because this is one of those textile design houses that I've only ever dreamed of working for (the other, btw, is Hermes 🥰)⁠
⁠
🇬🇧 Liberty "Alexa Frill Dress" pattern and notepad. The pattern is not something I normally gravitate towards, but I had no idea they actually had a pattern line so I wanted to check it out. The notepad will be used for my daily activities.⁠
⁠
🇬🇧Merchant and Mills wide bow scissors to replace my janky snips!⁠
⁠
🇬🇧 V&A Tote bag because... well, I needed one in the moment and the pattern was too beautiful to pass up!⁠
⁠
🇬🇧 Jane Austen inspired tarot cards. I only had 5-10 minutes to pop my head into the Jane Austen Center in Bath during a tour, and while I actually wanted everything in shop, I couldn't say no to buying one of my favorite things in the world *TAROT CARDS* at a gift shop dedicated to one of the authors who had the most impact on my young adult life. I can't wait to read with them!⁠
⁠
Is there something I should have picked up while I was there? Did I miss any Sewing Musts?⁠
⁠
As for UK Musts, I definitely 1- Got used to riding the Tube, 2- Ate Marmite, and 3- Had enough Traditional English Breakfasts to last me at least another year. All in all, fantastic trip.⁠
⁠
#sewingblogger #millennialsewing #sewingnotions #libertyoflondon #britishtextiles #tarotreadersofinstagram
It's important to take time off to give your brain It's important to take time off to give your brain time TO THINK and FIND INSPIRATION ✨⁠
⁠
From Old Trafford to Buckingham Palace, the V&A Museum to Bath... to Edinburgh! From a quick 5 minute visit to the Jane Austen Museum in Bath... to the ACTUAL Roman baths... and... even... Stonehenge- up close and personal 😱 (I actually cried there- it was so powerful and overwhelming.)⁠
⁠
While "wanderlust" and "omg take me back!" tend to encapsulate a lot of pop travel, I was instead left with the idea that... ⁠
⁠
WOW. It's really important to "shut off" regular life sometimes, to let your mind breathe and to allow new ideas to formulate. To reconnect with what actually makes you excited to get up in the morning. ⁠
⁠
I know this is a luxury for a lot of people-- actually, for most of us, with the grind of day-to-day life. But. When the opportunity arises, it's never a bad idea. ⁠
⁠
For me this sort of big trip is a rarity and my daily "shut off" moment is instead my coffee in the morning, with my journal and my tarot cards.⁠
⁠
What's yours? ⁠
⁠
#travelforthesoul #mentalhealth #sewinginspiration #uktravel⁠
⁠
Wait- has it already been TWO WEEKS since coming b Wait- has it already been TWO WEEKS since coming back from the UK? GET OUT 😱⁠
⁠
It was such a beautiful trip, being present for @luka1502 and @mr_mistta 's wedding! ⁠
⁠
Sharing a few photos of the Big Day that I really loved-- though more photos of the rest of the trip coming this week. ⁠
⁠
Super happy that we got to go- the ceremony was really magical 💍⁠
⁠
🥲⁠
⁠
#britishwedding #morningwear #vintageinspired #1950svintage

Copyright © 2023 · Vintage on Tap · Blog Design by Little Blue Deer
Privacy Policy