Can I say how much I needed this dress? Stitched up a few days before my 30th birthday, everything on this dress came together in a breeze and was a reaffirming piece about how far I’ve come in my sewing journey. I’ve been sewing for over half my life and seeing how quickly and easily this came together for me was a relief, to be honest.
The Colette Rue dress features these pretty pleated details on the bust line and super fun piping detail to make the bodice POP. The piping is listed as optional, but if you’re making this for yourself, definitely include it. The fabric I chose for my piece is pretty busy and the piping really breaks up the pattern without being “too much.”
I spoke about this fabric in a previous video, my August 2016 Haul, so definitely check that out to hear more about it and how I picked it up at Mood Fabrics in Downtown LA.
Other details about this dress that give it a luxe feeling is that its completely lined (!!) and features tons of hand sewn details. The hand sewing part of it makes me extremely happy, though, because they’re details only I get to see and appreciate.
The fit is fantastic but I did have to do some random fidgeting at the paper pattern level regardless. My video goes into a little more depth about it.
Either way, I love this piece and can’t wait to wear it again to go out dancing this weekend!
Disclaimer: This post was made possible by Colette Patterns who kindly donated this pattern to review :)
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My August 2016 Sewing Pinup Haul was exactly what I needed this month.
As my video talks about, I had a very bad fall at the beginning of the month that left me pretty incapacitated for a couple weeks. Four weeks after my fall I’m barely at the point where I can do a simple yoga sun salutation without TOO much discomfort (progress!) The items I picked up in August are all wonderful and exactly what I needed, though, to cheer me up and keep me going when I’ve been stuck on the couch!
Items I picked up in August that can be purchased online are below
Kat Von D Tattoo Eyeliner: 20$ for such an awesome, awesome eyeliner. I’m trying to figure out how long before it needs to be replaced, though, so we’ll see. Some of the reviews I read said that it dries out pretty quickly, but I’ve had it for a few weeks now and it still seems to be doing ok.
OPI We The Female: In my video I was on my 2nd application of that polish and I’m due for another manicure- I all ready want to use it again. It goes with everything I own and it just feels… natural to wear it? Definitely moreso than a bright pink or blue. I can see this being a staple color.
Sebastian ReShaper Hairspray: Recommended to me by my hairstylist. I don’t think I can ever go back to cheap hairspray… ever.
Digitally Printed Floral on a Butterfly Jacquard: Kind of on the thicker side, but love the texture and how vibrant the colors are on this. I love florals like this- reminds me of a Baroque painting.
Jessica Simpson Mandalaye Flat: All ready my go-to shoe while my foot recovers from my fall. I want to pick up a pair of these in black.
Either way, everything in this August 2016 sewing pinup haul makes me happy and will definitely see quite a lot of use for the rest of the year. I anticipate maybe picking up some more nail polish, a new set up kitten heels when my foot finishes healing, and definitely some more fabric as I get ready to sew for the holidays. Ohh- can’t wait for that!
The Gable Top is something I want to make 10,000 of.
Simple- practical- straight forward, what more can a seamstress ask for? When it comes to my workflow here at Vintage on Tap, I’m constantly working on projects that stretch my skills (and time, and patience, and funds, and brain cells…) Most of the time, it works out fine, but sometimes all I want is a feel-good pattern that I don’t have to fuss with and just fits.
I think I’ve found that pattern for me.
Jen from Jennifer Lauren Handmade reached out for me to give her Gable Top pattern a shot and not to gush, but I’m so happy with this pattern! It whips up quickly and without hiccup that I’m all ready planning on stitching up a few more Gables in black, black, black, and red. And yes, you read that correctly, in a lot of black jersey because this piece is a basic I can see being incorporated and used quite a lot.
From Jen’s website-
The idea for Gable has been floating around in my head for a long time. I love knit tops and since releasing Bronte all that time ago, I knew I needed to revisit the world of knits again. They’re so easy, so quick and so satisfying to make and wear. Gable is a true slash-neckline top, which basically means it sits at a 90-degree angle straight across the neckline from the inner shoulders.
The only change I made to the pattern as pictured is that I shortened the length by at least 1.5″. For future versions, it also needs about 3/4″ taken in on the shoulders to fit my frame a little bit more comfortably. I also sewed my neckline differently than the directions or Abi’s from The Crafty Pinup version. I did a simple fold over without a curved seam, to keep a straight stitch line between shoulder reinforcements and neckline.
Would I recommend this top? Absolutely! I think it’s super important to have a go-to jersey pattern that you know is flattering and no-fuss. My muslin of this top was made in 45 minutes (including cutting) and I wore it out right away to go have a beer as soon as it was off the sewing machine. This blue one took about an hour because I took extra care to make sure not to cut the fabric at an angle. To be honest, the hardest part was cutting everything on grain, but that’s not too bad.
Disclaimer: This post was made possible by Jennifer Lauren Handmade who kindly donated this pattern to review :)
For pinup girls, Patterns by Gertie B6354 is a must have
This video features my tips for making this beautiful 3-piece ensemble reversible in both a beautiful rayon and black poly/cotton blend. Full disclosure, this video definitely took a very long time to shoot; you’ll see multiple outfit changes over the course of the video. I think all in all, it took me about a week and a half as I worked an hour here, an hour there.
The project was fun, though. Patterns by Gertie B6354 has been sitting in my pattern collection since June 2016 and it was nice to be able to pull it out so soon. There are many patterns which have been sitting in my collection for years that still haven’t seen the light of day- B6354 was put into use right away!
If you missed out on my previous post, this video was made as part of the Retro Tiki Collab with the beautiful and smart Christina from Gussets and Godets, Abi from The Crafty Pinup, and Akram from Akram’s Ideas. Please check out their individual blogs to read more about their versions of this pattern and their respective tutorials!
My July 2016 sewing pinup haul was minimal- but so practical!
After posting my June 2016 haul video, figured I might as well continue to show you guys the things I pick up for my pinup looks and sewing projects!
In July I bought very few things new and mostly went with thrifted items which I’m so happy to have found at my local charity shops. When I go thrifting, I like to wait at least a month between visits to hopefully see some turn over; so far, so good.
Benefit, They’re Real Eyeliner: Reviews online are mixed. For me, I didn’t find it worked the way I wanted, but if you want to try it, go with the travel size to save some money if it doesn’t work out. Watch the video to learn more about what I thought about it, though.
Also, Rachel from Rach Against the Sewing Machine made my lovely new button pattern weights! Please check out her blog to learn more about her and follow her on Instagram if you’re not all ready! If she decides to sell the buttons on a bigger scale, I’ll update this post with more information.
Hang tight for my August haul video- so many projects on the list and a trip planned, so I see plenty of shopping in my future!
Vintage on Tap’s first collaboration- Butterick B6354 is FABULOUS!
Can I say how happy and excited I am to have worked on this collaboration? Featuring 4 lovely ladies in the retro and pinup blogging world, sewing the same pattern in their own unique way. We each decided to give Gertie’s Butterick B6354 our own twist and its been so fun to see how the pattern has been interpreted and styled!
Why this pattern? It’s summer time and tiki seems to be all the rage this time of year in the pin up sewing world. And besides, I was all ready itching for another tropical drink after my last tiki dress a while back.
For my version of Butterick B6354, I made my piece… reversible!
Sewing a reversible garment can be fun, and the amount of hand sewing should definitely not turn you off from trying it! There’s only a few special considerations to take into account for this particular piece.
#1: Plan your reversible from even before Step One
No, you can’t just cut into your pretty fabric and go! Take a look at the pattern pieces and directions and decide what can and can’t be reversible. Locate what will be tricky and will need work arounds and test those out on a muslin first. For this piece, I knew that the back closure, interior boning, straps and cup decoration would need extra consideration and need to be made differently in order to be fully reversible.
#2: Both fabrics on a reversible piece have to have to bought purposefully and thoughtfully
Making this piece reversible means there is no real lining fabric and that means that every side of the piece has to look good! There’s no way to hide a funky sewing fumble, either. For this piece, I opted to hand-sew anything that might be questionable, including the top stitching and back closure. Also, try to make both fabrics a similar weight and feel or the piece will not behave properly.
#3 Decide what parts of the pattern can work double time
The bias decoration on this piece is the same on both sides and merely flips the opposite way to decorate the other side. There are some parts of a reversible that just have to do double duty, there’s no way around it. On this piece, I made sure to carry my top stitching underneath the band to allow it to roll over a little bit more easily. A lot of the techniques that might make the bodice more stable (under stitching, etc.) had to be skipped in order to protect the integrity of the reversible.
#4 The closure can be the hardest part to make beautiful
Don’t mind the wonky skirt in this picture, but instead focus on what will work to make the piece look good at the closure. This pattern called for a zipper, but most reversible zippers are made for winter coats and not suitable for this sort of piece. I decided to go with flat buttons that wouldn’t add too much bulk to the bustier from either side. The result looks sleek and purposeful.
Would I make this piece again? Totally! For my particular piece I had to do a FBA on the bolero and bustier, but I may have just slightly overdone it on the bustier. Either that or I need to start rocking a bigger push up bra to fill in the cups a little bit more! Next time, though, I would take the cups in just slightly to have them not so “open” at the top.
The bolero was a breeze to sew, though, and I actually all ready want a bunch for regular wear. I can see making this in a wool fabric with a colorful lining for date nights.
The sarong was nice and super comfy; I actually would love to make it in a real casual fabric for an upcoming vacation, too!
There’s so many ways to update and change this piece to suit your style, though. Check out the other posts in the collab for Butterick 6354 to learn about different ways to make it a little bit more your own.
Meet the ladies who participated in the Retro Tiki Collab!
Abi from The Crafty Pinup
Abi exploded onto the sewing scene just a few months ago, but has all ready been featured by BBC and The Fold Line for her awesome blogging and sewing skills! She also owns My Retro Closet for all your boudoir needs.
Akram has been super active and such a fun blogger and vlogger who I have admired for a long time! She does everything from baking amazing recipes to sewing and thrifting up a storm. If you’re not all ready watching her on YouTube, you’re missing out!
Akram sewed up the pattern as is- giving a full break down of what you can expect to find the moment you open up your copy of Butterick B6354. She also did some adjustments on the skirt and the images on her blog really help guide you through the process! Hop on over there to read about her experience working on her piece.
Christina from Gussets and Godets
Not gunna lie, I’ve had a huge blogger-girl-crush on Christina for a while because of her awesome outfits and amazing styling skills. Every time I see her post on Instagram or her blog, I’m like “omg girl, weeeerk!” She’s been featured on the lovely A Stitching Odyssey blog and is beloved by the sewing community.
Please leave your thoughts and comments on this piece and the others you’ve seen! And stay tuned for an update on a giveaway and the Making Of video of my reversible piece!
Can I share how long McCalls 7168 Swim Suit actually took me to make?
And it wasn’t even about issues with the pattern itself! This suit spent a solid 18 days at my sewing table, asking to be made. As you can see in my YouTube video, there were several outfit changes during the entire process: a little work done here, a little work done there. Had I actually sat down and applied myself, M7186 could have been done within a weekend and have been ready for the San Francisco Pride Parade! Same could be said about the video, too; it was a huge hurdle to get it up and out there!
You can’t rush a project, though: in 15 years at the sewing pedal I’ve learned a project will take as long as its going to take.
The McCalls 7168 swim suit was covered in last week’s photoshoot post and the above video really dives into what it was like to sew swimwear for the very first time. I experienced issues with the sewing needle, getting the machine settings just right, and overall, fighting with the elastic which I just didn’t buy enough of. If I were to make this bathing suit again, I know I would be a lot more prepared. I’m just happy and thankful that the fabric and design were so forgiving and that I don’t feel an ounce self conscious wearing this killer pinup suit!
This year I challenged myself to sew something different, and for this project I focused on learning to sew with new materials. A pinup bathing suit was my first toe into sewing swimwear knits and I’m happy McCall’s 7168 worked. It challenged me to take the sewing skills I’m all ready comfortable with and marry them with some new techniques.
First, the fabric: a lovely vintage 60s swimwear knit I picked up from the Etsy store Kchoos. I talk about this great fabric in my June 2016 haul video (check it out if you haven’t all ready!) Insanely happy tropical fruits and flowers are featured all over it and you can get lost in all the colors. The fabric fed into the tiki kick I’ve been on lately, so I couldn’t resist. Also, the bright colors hides any mistakes I made in construction!
McCall’s M7168 is a modern pattern that lends itself to a lot of possibilities.
The amount of sewing options can be a little bit overwhelming, but they’re fun to think about because you can create your ideal two-piece. The mix and match is a selling point and there are a lot of pattern pieces to work with no matter what design you chose. After the dust settled, I went with the high waisted briefs + plain waistband + no panel gathers…. combined with halter top. Mouthful for sure, but the ideal retro-inspired piece.
My main concern making the pinup bathing suit was whether or not it would even fit! Other considerations I was worried about:
Did I need to do a full bust adjustment?
How much negative ease was built in?
Would any of the bands look weird on my short torso?
For sewing without a muslin, the bathing suit worked out in the end. I think if I were to make this pinup suit again, I would certainly tweak the pattern just slightly- but barely slightly- around the openings for my legs as I found them just a touch tight. The piece actually fit better than I anticipated, so no complaints overall! My upcoming YouTube video about this piece is going to go a little bit more into the nitty gritty on the process of creation- subscribe to my channel to see it as soon as its published!
Disclaimer: This post contains a couple affiliate links :)
Refurbishing a Vintage Sewing Machine was definitely a learning experience!
Can I say WOW? I’m actually super surprised that I was able to pull this restoration off. I’d been commenting to my boyfriend for ages about how much I needed to invest in an all metal machine, or even an industrial, when this Brother Charger 651 fell into my lap! I stumbled into it at a local thrift store for 25USD$ (~17£, 25AUS$) and when I verified it ran, it was purchased immediately.
I chronicled my experiences refurbishing a vintage sewing machine, start to finish, in my latest YouTube video. To be honest, I started at square one- absolutely no idea what I was doing and what to buy. There was a lot of conflicting information online about what works and doesn’t work, so I read, a lot. Please check out the resources links at the end of the post: if you’re taking on a refurbish and restoration, you want to make sure to eat up as much knowledge as you can! Each machine is different and if you’re working on an old Singer, there’ll be extra things to worry about (like the decals!)
The items I bought and talked about in my YouTube video are listed below. I’m sure a lot of these products are not available world wide, but do a quick Google search and you may be able to find counterparts in your area of the world.
Please don’t let refurbishing a vintage sewing machine freak you out! The process definitely is labor intensive, but not enough to stop me from doing the process again. Spend an hour or two a day plugging away at your sewing machine, scrubbing here and there, and it’ll be done in no time. And don’t skimp on taking it in for that final tune up! It was important to take it in to be seen by a professional before stitching to make sure the electrical components were good to go. I took my machine into Serge A Lot here in San Francisco and have nothing but good things to say about it!
My June 2016 Sewing Pinup Haul was a blast to shoot!
Talk about stepping out of my comfort zone! I wanted to try something a little bit different with my YouTube channel and decided to shoot a haul video for those of you who’ve asked to see a little bit more of how I do what I do!
Items I talked about in this video are below- except for the one of a kind vintage pieces:
I’m always looking for feedback on my videos! Please take a moment to leave me a comment, thumbs up, or even just simply subscribing to the YouTube channel– it would mean a lot to me and to Jose- my boyfriend who does double duty shooting and editing the videos!
This fabric is a gem at Britex Fabrics- I used Simplicity 8085 to make this piece happen
Can I say how much I love this dress? The comfortable wrap style of Simplicity 8085 can be both dressed up and dressed down. I decided to go with a stunning Italian cotton from Britex Fabrics that really makes this piece a knock out. I’m actually all ready looking forward for any excuse to wear it!
Simplicity 8085 was a breeze to sew and for an advanced beginner and intermediate seamstress, you can whip up this design within a few hours after doing pattern adjustments. To read more about it and see additional photos, please check out the Britex Blog or click on the image below!
Disclaimer: This post was made possible with support from Britex Fabrics! If you’re in San Francisco, please check them out. Their store is a fabric paradise.
I can happily say that one year after I originally wrote this post, my feelings and opinions on the importance of Me Made haven’t changed. Rereading what I wrote served as a healthy reminder as to why I take this blog so seriously and why promoting hand made clothing is a life goal.
Child labor sucks and puts a blemish on modern society’s “We’re Evolved!” point of view. For a lot of people, the issue of child labor is enough of a cause to try and reverse all the wrongs of the modern fast fashion industry. For me personally, its the mindless consumption that drives me up the wall- the idea that a SALE sign topper fills people with adrenaline and a high when the credit card purchase goes through. (Having worked in retail in a previous life, I can assure you that that “sale” isn’t really a sale.) A lot of articles have been written as of late about the constant sales and how even amongst retailers, its starting to harm their bottom line.
The lack of value that is placed on a piece of clothing- and in turn the art of sewing- is unfortunate. I know plenty of people who would baulk at paying more than 20$ on a blouse. The usual cry is, “I can buy that for cheaper elsewhere!”
But, when it comes to Me Made clothes, I gladly pay more than that every time.
Spending 40$ on fabric for a blouse + time and labour could easily turn a Me Made top into a 100$ blouse if I paid myself proper wages. But, its a sacrifice I am happy and fortunate to be able to make.
This past year there was a great hashtag trending on Instagram, “Who Made Your Clothes?” If you haven’t had the opportunity to check it out the website of this great cause, please do so. I was happy to open my social media every day to see people discussing this and for awareness of the issue to be raised amongst so many consumers.
As for me and where I stand, my goal last year was a start. As of this update, most of my clothing is Me Made. My last garment purchase was a pair of Hue tights which were made in the USA. I endeavor to keep making conscious decisions like this in the future.
Originally Posted May 2, 2015:
I, Bianca from Vintage on Tap, sign up as a participant of Me-Made-May ’15. I endeavour to wear Me Made items at least 3 times a week for the duration of May 2015′
Wait, what?
If you haven’t heard of Me Made May, it’s a lovely self challenge that promotes the appreciation of the handmade garments seamstresses make for themselves. The challenge has been out in the blogosphere for about 5 years and draws hundreds of participants who post on Flickr, Pinterest, and Instagram (#mmm15)
For each seamstress, the MMM15 challenge means something different, but the purpose is the same: incorporate handmade items into your daily rotation, wearing less RTW and (eventually) phasing those items out.
The concept is something I’m extremely passionate about. The ease at which fashion is disposable is astonishing: while fads come and go (and no doubt I love seeing what’s “in” right now)– the idea that there are so many people around the world who are bending over backwards for that 5$ top boggles my mind. Sweatshop conditions for millions of people around the world is agreed upon to be unethical: but walking the walk is hard when you just need to pick something up real quick for that one thing you got invited to.
We all fall prey to that discounted pair of jeans- I am definitely not above that- but if one less garment made in deplorable working conditions is in my regular rotation, then I am doing what I can do from here. Ultimately we vote with our wallet when it comes to these sorts of things– its important to at least be aware of who made your clothes or where they came from. And frankly, I’d rather spend my money on the raw materials to make fabulous clothing for myself. I’ll undoubtedly buy some sweater someday, somewhere that wasn’t ethically made- no doubt about it- and I’m sure all my readers will, too. But raising awareness and being conscious of those decisions as they happen- and conscious when you’re replacing them with something vintage or Me Made will help offset those habits. Its all about doing what we can when we have a choice.
Speaking about the challenge specifically, it will be interesting for me because I have a bunch of really random pieces of clothing in my wardrobe, all of which I made for random reasons. Incorporating them into a daily wardrobe will certainly be tricky, but it can definitely be done.
Recently I was linked to a Coletterie wardrobe challenge that was posted in 2014 and really hit the nail on the head for how I’ve been feeling about my struggles to complete a strong closet. A lot of the clothes I’ve made previously have been all over the place, not flowing together and being cohesive enough to evolve into a functioning collection of pieces. If you haven’t checked out the Coletterie series of posts, I highly recommend them! [May 10, 2016: I actually started doing this wardrobe challenge and you can read more about that here]
Either way, fostering the curiosity of who made your clothes is a small step.
All it takes is looking at the tags in your clothes every once in a while and deciding that maybe next time, you want to know who made your clothes.
Invest in a quality piece instead that was made in a place that doesn’t exploit child labor or continually takes advantage of poor working conditions. Just one piece at a time.
If you were curious about how to sew a robe, this video tutorial is perfect for you.
Working on a string of tricky projects always makes me want to turn my eye to something light, airy, and comfortable. And no matter your sewing level, stitching up the Seamwork Almada robe is simple and quick.
The Almada robe is a Seamwork Magazine pattern that was released as part of their Intimates issue in 2016. Its comfortable kimono-style makes it a quick make and a nice lounging piece.
This robe is comfortable and it would also work just as well in a light flannel for cuddling up on the couch when its cold out!
I sewed this kimono robe with a smooth poly/rayon satin.
I picked this blend specifically for its washing ease and soft print, which for it being a “home” piece, was absolutely paramount. The bias binding trim was self-made from 100% silk, which gives the robe a great pop of color, though the original pattern doesn’t include this trim. Instead, the original pattern uses the bias band as an interior bias facing, but I decided to skip it since the trim is more fun! I covered this section in my video tutorial at 0:48 and more in depth at 3:17.
Luxe sewing details are always a fun thing to incorporate when you’re considering how to sew a robe, and I decided to add piping on the sleeve hem, since it seemed to make sense with the silk bias band. I go over this in depth at 4:02 in the robe sewing video.
Learning how to sew a robe of this fabric type requires a few extra steps.
Because of the fabric, I opted for french seams throughout to completely cut down on the unraveling issues. For the hem, I did a simple rolled hem with a rolled hem foot I didn’t realize I’ve had for years!
This Seamwork pattern didn’t stitch up in the suggested time, but I’m very well aware it was because I did some extra work.
Depending on the type of look you’re going for with sewing this robe, it can stitch up in the approximated 2 hours. Had I decided to make this in a simple woven fabric and just pinked all the seams, this could have been done in the span of a good movie.
The most complicated thing about this pattern was just the process of trying to wrangle the fabric to stay put when I was cutting it out, which had more to do with the poly/rayon than the pattern.
I’ve all ready started to wear this robe every day since I stitched it up; its part of my at home “uniform!”
I recommend this robe if you’re looking to start building up a self sewn wardrobe because its absolutely essential before bed or for early morning coffee. When you’re starting your day and catching up on Instagram (which by the way, are you following me on IG?), this makes for a quick cover up.
If you want to learn how to sew a robe, you’ll be super pleased with this sewing pattern.
The loose, comfortable design has made it my go-to piece when I wake up in the morning and right before I go to sleep. I definitely recommend you make it ASAP and check out the video above if you want a tutorial of the process!
Making matching underwear to this robe is a total must. For example, why not make a pair of sexy underwear to go with your new robe?
Liked it so much, had to make Butterick B5895 twice!
I absolutely love this little top! I never anticipated falling in love with a crop top, but when I made Butterick B5895 last year, it blew me away. Unfortunately, last year I never really blogged about it, even though I started a draft.
As all other reviews of this sewing pattern have stated, the bodice is super short! This worked out great for me since my torso is equally as short and this bodice ends at my natural waist line. For those of you with a normal torso length, beware!
When tracing out the pattern pieces, take care of all circle markings and note them well on your fabric. These circles are where the seam allowances intersect for the collar. Every single circle must match up– over 5 layers. I find it also very curious how much clipping is called for at such a high stress point- so much so that if the circle markings don’t line up, there can be a hole under the collar. Fortunately, the hole isn’t visible, but its there nonetheless if the circles don’t line up.
For this reiteration of Butterick B5895 I also made a matching dirndl skirt like I made a while back, lengthening it by 2.5in. I wanted this set to have a “resort” feeling to it and I’ve always wanted to have a matching set!
The fabric was fun, too. I found it at one of the local shops and its a comfortable, breathable cotton lawn. And the hat in the above pictures is from Goorin Brothers- which I don’t get to wear very often, but was great for the photoshoot! The weather in San Francisco has been jumping from hot to cold for the past couple weeks and luckily, this project matched up on an 80*F (26*C) day.
Embarking on sewing a cocktail dress is an exciting process!
The possibilities of stitching up your very own cocktail dress are absolutely endless. Things that you can dive into are…
What luxurious fabric do you want to use?
What sort of embellishments will you like to incorporate?
Vintage inspired or more modern?
What sort of silhouette?
What SHOES are going to go with it? (had to throw in something fun!)
Without a doubt, it’s extremely easy to fall into a rabbit hole planning out the process for an exciting cocktail dress!
This blog post discusses sewing a cocktail dress, and some of the biggest tips and tricks I learned from making my own. In this case, I madeButterick B5814, a Patterns by Gertie design released in 2012.
Tip #1: Select your fabric with care.
Depending on your sewing level, this is one of the biggest factors in sewing a successful cocktail dress. The fabric will determine things like:
Pre-sewing fabric preparation (eg. the silkier the fabric, the more finicky, which will mean sewing more slowly!)
Special considerations have to made to interior fabrics and materials as well!
As long as you’re mindful about the materials you’re using and how they operate, your sewing experience will go swimmingly. For example, for my Butterick B5814 cocktail dress, I decided to use a lovely acetone/viscose Italian crepe. It had a silky hand, medium weight, but was also difficult to work with because there was a slight stretch to it, was flimsy, and unravelled easily.
Due to the volatile nature of the fabric I chose for this dress, I had to go out of my way with additional sewing techniques, including marking all my notches with tailor’s tacks to maintain the integrity of the fabric.
Tip #2: The interior of your cocktail dress should get as much care as the exterior.
It’s very easy to say, “No one is going to see the inside- who cares?!” but when sewing your cocktail dress, the interior is just as integral as the exterior.
For example, for Butterick B5814, I wanted to keep and maintain the quintessential pinup dress look, which meant some additional pre-planning.
Changes I made include:
Spiral steel boningthroughout the bodice (not the plastic boning that was suggested in the pattern)
Reinforcement at the neckline with bias strips to keep the neck from stretching through wear
Underlining throughout
The final two points for my pinup cocktail dress were not included as part of the original pattern. However, because I was using some super luxe fabric, taking preemptive measures to care for the interior is key to a sturdy dress!
To learn how to both reinforce the neckline with bias strips AND to underline your cocktail dress, be sure to check out a tutorial video I did on this topic. The sewing techniques are incorporated into a Butterick B5603 holiday dress. The sewing tips covered in that video 100% apply to your cocktail dress!
Tip #3: Divide your work into manageable chunks.
My Butterick B5814 had… 50 individual steps. Not including cutting fabrics, boning, and prepping all additional notions.
Having reasonable expectations of how long things take will keep you motivated and focused.
If you’re making a cocktail dress for the very first time, beware of the following workflow:
Laundering your fabric (dry clean, hand wash, machine wash)
Of course, each of the above steps will take longer or shorter depending on your sewing experience, but be sure to be mindful of the process! Projects started on a whim have a tendency to have a mind of their own, and a successful garment isn’t guaranteed when worked on in a hurry.
If you’re tackling Butterick B5814…
The dolman sleeves are super tricky. After 5 muslins, they still were slipping and sliding. I had to rely heavily on the bra carriers, not just to hide bra straps, but to also help hold up the sleeves.
Also, the gathered attachment at the waist is tricky to stitch through, at ten layers deep (!!) Switch sewing needles to something more industrial, and hand crank through the layers to attach them.
Making the Gertie tiki dress makes me want nothing but sunshine. Sewing it was a breeze.
Materials I used for this project were mostly found in my stash, except the elastic thread I got to use for the very first time! The fabric was fun and loud and is getting me prepped and ready for days by the beach with a mixed tropical drink in hand! The photoshoot I did for this dress really expresses the sentiment 100%!
I’m happy to say that the Gertie tiki dress video was super fun to shoot- please check it out and leave a comment and subscribe!
This tiki dress is the most immediately satisfying make of the year.
The moment it left my sewing machine, I knew it was a winner. This tiki dress was very much an impulsive “MUST MAKE IT NOW” sort of project and I’m glad I took it on because I feel amazing in it. Browsing the different vintage and pinup Facebook groups I’m a part of, seeing everyone talking about the Viva Las Vegas rockabilly weekend, and being sad that I can’t go this year isn’t very productive. So why not whip up a tiki dress for when I do get to go?
The pattern was super cool to work with because I all ready knew it quite well! The pattern is a combination of two different pieces from the Gertie New Book for Better Sewing. The top is the Sweetheart Dress and the skirt is the pencil skirt pattern, redrafted with a slash and spread technique.
Something different that I got to play with in this pattern was the shirring in the back, using elastic thread in my recently tuned up machine. It was fun to see the panel shrink! But So.Many.Rows! For some reason I anticipated working with elastic thread to be more complicated than it really was.
The fabric for this piece was something I picked up from a local fabric shop and absolutely screamed tiki dress. While I absolutely love the print, the fabric itself has a really weird hand that reminds me of a soft oilcloth. When I purchased it, it had a stiffer hand, which I had hoped was only the final finish and would soften during washing. It still softened and is wearable, but I can see this as a special occasion dress due to the weird texture of the fabric.
Vintage Simplicity sewing patterns are definitely some of my favorites.
A while back I stumbled on an absolute vintage gem from 1948, “Pattern for Smartness” which totally endeared me to Simplicity. The video was an advertisement, but honestly, the campy, “wholesome” vibe is one of my favorite aspects of vintage life.
Dipping your toe into vintage Simplicity 1460 definitely sends you to the 1950s with its pretty peplum.
Peplums do a phenomenal job of nipping you in at the waist and then flaring at the hips, which look great on people with short torsos like myself. I originally found this pattern a few years ago and was super excited to try it for my first pinup sewing video.
The fabrics recommended for this pattern are below:
Light-to-midweight cottons and linens
Brocade
Cotton Lawn
Cotton types
Crepe
Crepe de Chine
Dupioni
Shantung
Lace
Sateen
Satin
Voile
To keep it simple for this sewing video and to make this quickly, I went with a midweight cotton for both versions of this peplum. If I were to make this again, I would definitely push myself more towards cotton lawn, woven eyelet fabrics, or even voile for a more delicate, less structured look, all with a silk camisole underneath (I’m thinking something like the Seamwork Savannah.)
Tip #1: Watch the pattern ease!
The biggest complaint I read before starting to sew vintage Simplicity 1460 was that there was a huge amount of wearing ease- and I can confirm it 100%.
For vintage styles and modern pinup styles, huge wearing ease can be a style faux-pas, and with silhouette-hugging style such as this vintage Simplicity, its something you want to avoid (while also avoiding gaping buttonholes!)
Decide on your size using the measurements on the pattern paper, not the measurements on the pattern envelope. In my case, I wanted to be mindful of any full bust adjustments that might be necessary so I picked my size based on my high bust with an inch of ease, and then did my adjusting as necessary. I speak to this at timestamp 1:20 in my video.
Tip #2: Decide early on how long you want the peplum to be.
Luckily, I only shortened my peplum just slightly, based off my height of 5’2″. I don’t see myself making the tunic length; it would probably make me look shorter than I already am!
If you’re taller, you can definitely lengthen both the torso of the bodice and the peplum evenly, to keep the right proportions all around.
There were plenty of people in the sewing community who lengthened the peplum into a full skirt, transforming this into a vintage dress. Please be mindful that the peplum is essentially a short circle skirt attached to a bodice: and lengthening the peplum will make for a lot more fabric used and will require extra reinforcements on the waistline, such as a grosgrain ribbon waist stay (discussed in my Vintage Vogue 8789 video, timestamp 9:25)
Tip #3: Practice your Sewing 101 Basics
Darts and buttonholes, while used extensively in garment sewing, really take center stage.
This pattern features double french darts, beautifully curved darts that aren’t sewn in a straight line, discussed at timestamp 5:20 in the video.
Buttonholes, because they are literally front and center, can really make or break the look of this piece. In both instances of this blouse, I used a busy fabric which (thankfully) disguised my wonky buttonholes. Be mindful that taking some time to practice your buttonholes will ensure that this vintage blouse looks perfect!
I hope the above tips help you when you jump into making this blouse!
What sort of fabric would you use if you were to make vintage Simplicity 1460? How do you see yourself styling it for that perfect pinup outfit?
Happily, the dirndl skirt is a pretty straight forward design; I was able to draft the pattern in less than an hour and sew both skirts super quickly. Basic rectangle waistband and gathered rectangles. Lots of hand stitching at the waistband, hem, and handpicked zipper help give these skirts the little construction details I love to admire.
It was also very nice to make pieces like these, because they were a nice break from longer, more complicated projects which, while rewarding, can be a time suck! Both skirts were whipped up casually over two evenings and a few episodes of The Walking Dead. Now that the pattern pieces are drafted out, I’ll be making more for daily use. I may lengthen the skirt, though– as these hit me just slightly above the knee; I could go with a little bit more of a tea-length.
For the photos I wore the Astoria sweaters I made a few weeks back which are coming in handy all the time. These sorts of skirts the sweaters tuck in really easily which helps give that small-waist visual effect.
The petticoat I used for these photos was from The Black Ribbon and is MAXIMUM poof. Designed for EGL, it made me feel like a cupcake (which I loved.) The chiffon used to make it is amazingly soft and light weight, and packs really well. I haven’t ever had a problem with this loosing its poof and its super easy to wash. Highly recommend if you’re looking for a workhorse petticoat! And for size reference, I’m 5-foot 2-inches tall.
I have a couple more versions of this dirndl skirt I want to sew, but those will come when I have time!
February has me thinking of the perfect vintage slip.
I am not immune to the beautiful silks that seem to be everywhere in February! Luckily, a vintage slip falls in line with Spring/Summer sewing plans, so I’m very happy to start filling my wardrobe with basic pieces that will be used time and time again.
I decided to take on what I thought would be a rather simple garment- a vintage inspired slip, but as I started with it, the project turned into a pattern drafting challenge. I found a free beautiful Vintage Slip pattern by House of Jo and set down to work.
The pattern itself definitely needed a lot of wrangling, though.
When I sourced the pattern, it didn’t really include any directions, let alone sizes. The pattern designer left minor notes in comments below their original upload so I had to piece a lot together– converting the sizing to inches, deciphering the sizes on the pattern paper, and then going deeper into the directions than the summary. Apparently this slip was originally published in The Vintage Pattern Selector and featured in Sew Magazine at some point, but the online upload was very vague. French seams weren’t discussed, or even straps with bra hardware. Also, this pattern calls for everything to be cut out on grain, but in future iterations I’ll be doing everything on the bias for a better feel. Basically, I took what I learned from my Savannah camisole and applied it here.
Still, I love the different lines to the design. Some of the pieces could have been cut on fold (front bodice and back yoke), but I also like how the different seams give it a different effect. Yes, it added more work to the French seams, but they were worth it. Also, stay stitch every curved part of that pattern as soon as you cut it, you’ll thank yourself later.
It was necessary to do some quality control when it came to the silk I used.
I went with a basic silk, but it did involve some testing. Essentially I ended up walking around the fabric store, rubbing fabric against my tights to be certain the garment wouldn’t ride up during wear. Doesn’t seem like a big deal to do that, but if you’re sewing something similar for yourself, putting the fabric under a (reasonable) stress test while you’re in the fabric shop is essential, and for me that was making sure it didn’t ride up.
My favorite part of this reproduction vintage slip is how feminine it makes me feel. I want more of these in every color as soon as possible.
For a vintage slip reproduction pattern, I’m super happy with how it came out! I ended up working out most of the kinks of this pattern on a wearable muslin with some random fabric in my stash.
As I started working on this piece, Seamwork Magazine featured a lovely Behind the Seams of a Vintage Slip so I was able to incorporate some of those details into my slip. I used bra strap hardware I bought from Tailor Made Shop on Etsy, French seams, and lingerie lace I was able to source from a nearby fabric store.
This reproduction vintage slip is the first of my 2016 Vintage Pledge pieces.
While I sew a majority of my items from vintage patterns, I think a “modern” reproduction still counts! I’m very happy that this vintage slip is a good way to practice basic skills and continue to perfect them on basic garments. Neglecting the simple skills can really kill a project and working with lace, french seams, and even learning how to make spaghetti straps can be vital!
