Tag: Seamwork Magazine

  • Vintage on Tap Sewing Blog, Behind the Scenes

    Vintage on Tap Sewing Blog, Behind the Scenes

    Retro styling for the Colette Patterns Jasmine blouse, sewn by Bianca from Vintage on Tap

    I joke with Jose about how working on the Vintage on Tap sewing blog feels like screaming out into the void, without anyone on the other side.

    Dramatic! (I know!)

    I speak about it occasionally on my Instagram— that when I write a post, or film a video, it’s like taking a piece of myself, putting it in a little paper boat, and setting it off into the ocean. If it sinks or sails, who knows. But I cared a lot about that little piece of myself, and hope it does well, and hope there’s someone on the other side of the world who gets to see it come to shore safely.

    Honestly, I’m sure there are segments of my audience who might feel that way from time to time. The screaming into the void part, especially with the ways of the Internet.

    Bianca Santori from the pinup and retro sewing blog, Vintage on Tap

    When I get the occasional email from a YouTube or Instagram follower who says, “Starstruck!” or “OMG I watch all your videos!” it takes me aback, to be honest. I’m humbled by it, but at the same time in awe of the person on the other side.

    That they picked up my little paper boat, they liked the little piece of myself that they found, they took it into their heart, and saw value in it. I’m consistently shocked and humbled by my audience. I’m thankful.

    Seamwork Magazine article for the Callahan Pants | Vintage on Tap

    After being a sewing blogger on and off for years, I originally stumbled on Colette Patterns when I fell in love with the different versions of their Violet blouse.

    I bought the pattern, bought what I assumed was the appropriate fabric (voice over: it wasn’t), and made myself a blouse. I loved it, even with all its sewing imperfections.

    But since then, I’ve been a fan of Colette Patterns, their mission, and the community that they’ve embraced and grown through their work and expansion into Seamwork Magazine.

    When I was contacted a few months back about becoming a Seamwork Ambassador, I had that same feeling of awe. “Who? Me?”

    If I could have turned and pointed at myself from my laptop, I would have. This company- which I had loved for years, who I had admired for being female run, and which operated like a startup (as an SF woman in tech, I say YEY!)– was contacting me to advocate for their business? It was a no brainer to sign up.

    The Colette Jasmine blouse, sewn sleeveless for the end of summer | Vintage on Tap

    Heck, the moment that Seamwork Magazine was announced, I signed up. Immediately.

    My audience values my honesty and I’m 100% willing to say Seamwork has a way to go for their business model and products. There are plenty of articles out there (even from sewing friends of mine!) who have legit criticisms about Colette Patterns and (by extension) Seamwork Magazine. I see all their points and I take all their points.

    As an ambassador, I hear you! And heck, even as an ambassador, I’m extremely particular about their patterns and whether or not they fit into my lifestyle! Still, I’m still proud to say that I love what the founder, Sarai, and her team have built. I admire it.

    Bianca Santori from Vintage on Tap Sewing Blog

    As part of the Vintage on Tap behind the scenes, Jose and I discuss where the sewing world, as a whole, is moving.

    How is the industry moving into the future, how is it going to survive as Millennials hand the reigns over to Gen-Z creatively, how does sewing modernize?

    When we conceptualized our videos, we wanted to make it a point to be prepared and be flexible to go that way, too. Colette Patterns and Seamwork Magazine, to us, feel like they’re leading the way in that direction. Even with stumbles along the way, they’re doing that. And Jose and I love that as industrious tech people.

    Being featured in the October 2018 issue of Seamwork Magazine is kind of a big deal for me. It’s one of those moments I genuinely know that I’m not screaming out into the void; that there is someone I admire on the other side who picked up my little paper boat and saw it for what it was.

    To read the Vintage on Tap sewing feature in Seamwork Magazine, click the link!

    Bianca Santori from Vintage on Tap sewing blog

    Bringing fresh perspective on sewing, pattern drafting, sewing self esteem, and caring for the things we produce with our hands is somewhere Vintage on Tap overlaps with Seamwork Magazine.

    Especially as society continues to move towards decreasing consumerism, caring for the environment, caring more for the effects of globalism in the clothing industry– making sewing approachable and modern becomes painfully important.

    Sewing blogger, behind the scenes shots | Vintage on Tap

    Sewing today does not fit the stereotypes of it being an “old lady activity.”

    Sewing today is fun, it’s engaging, and it breeds a global community where someone like me, can reach someone like you, through a series of internet pipes. That’s ultimately the engine that powers all the work that happens behind the scenes.

    Neither of us has to scream into the void. The sewing videos and tutorials that appear on Vintage on Tap make don’t have to sink into the ocean: you get to watch them at home.

    If you’re not already subscribed to Seamwork Magazine, please click here.

    If you’re a fan of projects that appear on the Vintage on Tap sewing blog, you’ll find Seamwork Magazine patterns and tutorials below:

    Thinking of dipping your toe into sewing? Learn how to sew a wrap top with this tutorial! | Vintage on Tap

    The Seamwork Kristin wrap top, featured in the Behind the Scenes video of this post. Perfect for a weekend getaway and one of those rewarding projects you want to make over and over again.

    Vintage-inspired sewing, the Seamwork Camden cape with full vintage style | Vintage on Tap

    The Seamwork Camden cape, voted on by my Patreon supporters. This cape is super easy to make and there are so many options to upgrade its different aspects, including making bound buttonholes or even adding a facing/lining combo!

    Spring Seamwork Alamada Robe | @vintageontap

    The Seamwork Almada Robe, easily my most worn Me Made to this day. Perfect for those early mornings or just out of a long luxurious bath. I made mine in a polyester satin, but it would also be amazing in a warm and yummy flannel for the cooler months.

    Bianca Santori from Vintage on Tap, a sewing blog dedicated to inspiring you to learn how to sew

    The blouse photographed in this blog post is the Colette Jasmine, which is also available for download with your Seamwork subscription.

    Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links :)

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  • How to Sew a Wrap Top (tutorial): The Seamwork Kristin!

    How to Sew a Wrap Top (tutorial): The Seamwork Kristin!

    Thinking of dipping your toe into sewing? Learn how to sew a wrap top with this tutorial! | Vintage on Tap

    Into 1960s casual fashion? Learn how to sew a wrap top with this tutorial!

    Even though I’m a vintage sewing blogger, 1960s is not a decade I normally dip my toe into, but this Seamwork Magazine Kristin top was too cute to resist! Super simple, accessible, and straight forward was exactly what I was into when I decided to stitch this tank up.

    I originally made this top for my trip to Italy back in June, and got to wear this top at Vatican City!

    The most attractive thing about learning how to sew a wrap top is just how easy and flattering it is.

    Especially if you’re making up a wardrobe for vacation or a quick weekend getaway. Having something that you know will look good, won’t take you longer than a couple hours from start to finish, and is something you can just throw on– it takes casual sewing to another level.

    Thinking of dipping your toe into sewing? Learn how to sew a wrap top with this tutorial! | Vintage on Tap

    Learn how to sew with Vintage on Tap Youtube videos! Full tutorial walkthroughs to make a wardrobe at home! | Vintage on Tap

    Learn how to sew with Vintage on Tap Youtube videos! Full tutorial walkthroughs to make a wardrobe at home! | Vintage on Tap

    Step One: Be mindful of the fabric you want to use to sew a wrap top!

    As with all sewing projects, being mindful the fabric you chose to work with will have a huge impact on the sort of results you’ll be getting from the Seamwork Kristin.

    Check your swatch book for sample fabrics that fit the feel and hand you want to achieve.

    How to sew a wrap top, the Seamwork Kristin video tutorial | Vintage on Tap

    In my case, I decided to use a linen fabric from MyFabricDesigns, which had a stiffer hand (discussed at minute 1:10 in the tutorial video.) I wanted to purposefully go with a stiffer fabric to give my wrap top more of a trapeze top feeling to it, and flare out at the hem.

    Other possible fabrics for a trapeze-style wrap top include mid- to heavyweight wovens, including chambray, denim, and linen blends. Keep in mind that to get a look more closely resembling the original Seamwork Magazine Kristin design, you’ll want to use a light- to midweight woven. 

    Learn how to make this tank wrap top with a full sewing video tutorial! | Vintage on Tap

    Learn how to make this wrap crop top! Sewing video tutorial | Vintage on Tap

    Step Two: Incorporate sewing techniques you’re already comfortable with into the instructions

    Sewing instructions are not the holy grail of an individual pattern! When attempting to sew a wrap top- or ANY pattern- take a moment to decide what parts of the instructions you want to play with or tweak to something you’re more comfortable with sewing.

    In sewing this individual wrap top, I decided to opt for using a bias facing throughout the edges, rather than encasing everything in bias binding. I cover this in the tutorial video at 2:54.

    Bias facings tend to look more professional and I prefer the clean crisp look from the exterior of the piece.

    To learn more in depth information about bias facings, please check out the technique video!

    How to Sew a Bias Facing, video tutorial | Vintage on Tap

    The only garment in recent memory that encased seams in bias bindings was my Simplicity 8085 1950s wrap dress.

    In this dress, I purposefully wanted an encased seam look, which lended itself to being a super homemade look. Of course, I could have just as easily done bias facings on this 1950s dress, just as I did on the Seamwork Kristin.

    Click here to learn how to make this 1950s dress!

    Bodice close up, bias binding and Esterwilder pin on Britex Fabric Italian watercolor cotton | @vintageontap

    Step Three: Keep track of the front and back of each piece.

    With wrap tops- especially wrap tops like the Seamwork Kristin, it can be extremely confusing to keep track of each pattern piece. Notches absolutely help and are highly recommended to transfer over from your pattern pieces.

    The above tip is extremely useful if you’re making a top in a solid color where it’s difficult to tell the front and back.

    How to sew a wrap top, the Seamwork Kristin video tutorial | Vintage on Tap

    Want to sew this pattern?

    The Seamwork Magazine Kristin is available via the Seamwork website!

    Click here to buy the pattern!

    1960s inspired crop wrap top! Learn how to sew this wrap top at home! | Vintage on Tap

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    How to sew a wrap top, the Seamwork Kristin tank top! Step by step video tutorial! | Vintage on Tap
    Subscribe to Vintage on Tap on YouTube!

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  • How to Sew a Vintage Cape, Tutorial with Video

    How to Sew a Vintage Cape, Tutorial with Video

    The Seamwork Camden cape, video walk through, with information on how to upgrade and expand on this great vintage style cape | Vintage on Tap

    As a vintage lover, I’ve wanted to own a vintage cape for as long as I can remember.

    Having a beautiful cape to twirl in, to feel luxurious and fabulous in… really, who wouldn’t want that?

    Unfortunately, for years I convinced myself that buying a cape would be impractical. But then it hit me: why not just make one?

    Vintage-inspired sewing, the Seamwork Camden cape with full vintage style | Vintage on Tap

    Sewing a cape, inspired by a vintage cape from the 40s or 50s  is totally within reach!

    Purchasing a vintage cape sewing pattern on Etsy or eBay can be an eye opener. Prices may range from a cheap 7USD (5£) to a surprisingly expensive 50USD (32£.) Of course, if I you have the option to sew your garment from a vintage cape pattern, I say GO FOR IT!

    BUT– using a modern sewing pattern with vintage sewing techniques can sometimes be more reasonable if you want a retro sewing fix and may not have access to a vintage sewing pattern.

    Sewing a vintage cape, the Seamwork Camden, with bound buttonholes | Vintage on Tap

    Insert the Seamwork Camden Cape!

    The cape is super traditional, with multiple gores to create a retro style that goes well with jeans, too.

    I chose this pattern because I knew I wouldn’t have to try and enlarge a real vintage pattern and because it’s readily available online via PDF.

    Plus, the projects I’ve made from Seamwork have all been reliable, which is extremely important when making a garment like this.

    The Seamwork Camden has tons of customizable pieces to make it more vintage and retro sewing style. Bound buttonholes, and a hand sewn lining to name a few! | Vintage on Tap

    This Seamwork Magazine cape features lots of cute details!

    1. Comfortable arm holes openings that are placed at a natural place on the garment
    2. Pattern pieces include a full lining
    3. Simple, neckline for casual days– and ample space in case you want to throw a faux-fur collar to dress it up.

    Back view of the Seamwork Camden cape, a gorgeous vintage cape you can make at home | Vintage on Tap

    Front, buttoned up view of the Seamwork Camden cape, a gorgeous piece inspired by vintage and retro capes. Learn how to sew your own with this video tutorial. | Vintage on Tap

    Before getting started…

    Decide what upgrades you might want to make to the Seamwork Camden, to give it more of a vintage cape touch.

    I went out of my way to pull in sewing techniques that would have been present in a vintage cape.

    Never one to settle for a plain garment, I upgraded my pattern in the following ways:

    • Added bound buttonholes to the front, rather than plain machine made buttonholes
    • Drafted a new facing piece, to have a facing that went completely around the neck
    • Stitched in a pocket into the lining, to have an interior double welt pocket
    • Hand sewed my lining in place, using techniques from the 1940s

    How To Sew Bound Buttonholes

    How To Draft Your Own Facing to a Lining

    How to Sew a Lining by Hand, Using Sewing Techniques from the 1940s

    Sewing walkthrough for how to sew a vintage cape in this video tutorial! | Vintage on Tap

    Step One: Pick the Right Fabric for the Job

    Picking the right fabric for a cape cannot be understated! I discuss this in my video tutorial at timestamp 4:21.

    Ask yourself the following questions:

    How do I intend to wear this cape? For casual use, or more as a workhorse, daily cape?

    Depending on your answer, pick lighter or thicker fabrics. For example, if it’s a purely workhorse cape, perhaps a sturdy twill or trenchcoat-like fabric might be nice. If you’re wearing your piece more for the glitz and glam of it, perhaps a sequin fabric or a thinner, more fluttery fabric can be what you’re looking for.

    This also extends to the lining! 

    What’s the weather more likely to be when you wear it?

    In my case, San Francisco doesn’t get too terribly cold and I’ll be pairing this cape up with wool sweaters and long sleeve shirts. I did not underline this piece with a flannel or cotton for insulation and opted for a mid-to-light cotton brushed “wool.”

    If temperatures in your area get extremely cold, definitely insulate your piece! If not, then you are probably ok to proceed as I did in the video tutorial, with no additional underlining.

    Front interior view of the vintage style Seamwork Camden cape | Vintage on Tap

    Step Two: Notches notches notches

    The importance of notches is always imperative to your sewing success! Covered at 2:15 in the video tutorial.

    Remember, notches indicate where pattern pieces fit in relationship to one another– AS WELL AS where two pattern pieces meet. In pieces such as this Camden cape, you’ll be sewing on a curve for most panels, and the notches allow you to see where the two pieces match up to one another.

    If you’ve had to do any fitting adjustments…

    Please be sure to rewalk your pattern pieces to make sure your pieces and notches match. On this vintage style cape, keep an eye out on the following areas:

    • If you’ve shortened or lengthened the piece… That the front shell and lining pattern pieces match the facing
    • If you’ve done a full bust adjustment… That the front shell and lining pattern pieces match the bottom rectangular panel

    Double welt interior pocket on this vintage style cape, the Seamwork Magazine Camden | Vintage on Tap

    Step Three: Identify at what point to incorporate vintage techniques into the sewing process

    The process of upgrading your sewing patterns can seem overwhelming if you haven’t given it a shot before.

    Taking the time before beginning the sewing process, to identify where to incorporate your new vintage elements can save you a lot of heartache down the road.

    For the above listed upgrades, I added them in at the following points:

    Sewing the Seamwork Camden, upgraded with vintage sewing details for a more vintage style cape | Vintage on Tap

    At the pattern drafting stage…

    Complete any fitting adjustments you might like to do. Then, draft your new facing pieces.

    For my Camden cape, I drafted a 2inch wide facing piece that extended from the original facing that ended at the neck, then brought the facing into a gentle curve around the neckline.

    Watch the tutorial on this sewing technique by clicking here

    Fabric detail on this retro inspired cape, the Seamwork Magazine Camden Cape | Vintage on Tap

    Before attaching the front shell piece to anything else…

    Sew your bound buttonholes. The pattern piece will be easier to handle if it’s not attached to the shell, and moving things around your sewing space will be a calmer experience.

    For my Seamwork Camden cape, I opted for the following measurements based off the recommended 3/4″ button:

    • 4 x 4″ squares for the “lips” of the buttonhole
    • 1 1/8 x 3/8″ buttonhole opening

    As noted in my buttonhole tutorial, sew the buttonholes onto the shell piece, and then complete the bound buttonholes later on when the facing has been sewn in place.

    Click here to learn how to sew a bound buttonhole

    Sewing the Seamwork Camden, upgraded with vintage sewing details for a more vintage style cape | Vintage on Tap

    Before attaching the lining to the shell…

    Stitch in your inner double welt pocket. I eyeballed where on my cape I wanted my pocket to be, and then went for it.

    I used the following measurements for my cape, which were large enough to fit an iPhone 7 (not PLUS):

    • 7 x 3″ welt, facing, and interfacing (cut 2 of interfacing)
    • 7 x 12″ pocket lining

    The best tutorial for double welt pockets I found online (that wasn’t mine!) is on the Craftsy website.

    Hand sewn details on the Seamwork Camden cape. Watch this tutorial video to learn how to upgrade your Camden! | Vintage on Tap

    After sewing the facing onto the shell…

    At that point you can attach your lining in by hand. Attaching the lining by hand is a really calm experience and the process of it is extremely forgiving due to the hand sewing of the technique.

    Click here to learn more about hand sewing in a lining

    Front view of the vintage cape, Seamwork Camden, a modern pattern with a retro twist! | Vintage on Tap

    Sewing a vintage cape from a modern pattern is easy to do if you upgrade the pattern and make it more authentic to the time period.

    A lot of modern sewing patterns draw direct inspiration and design from their older counterparts, and simply by including more intentional construction details, you can help merge the two styles seamlessly.

    By incorporating bound buttonholes, hand sewing, and more fully thought out interior designs, you can sew your own vintage cape.

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    How to Sew a Vintage Style Cape, using the Seamwork Camden sewing pattern. This video tutorial breaks down the sewing process and gives you all my tips and tricks to make a cape with authentic sewing techniques! | Vintage on Tap

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