• Email
  • Instagram
  • Pinterest
  • Twitter
  • YouTube
  • Skip to primary navigation
  • Skip to main content
  • Skip to primary sidebar
  • Skip to footer
  • START HERE
  • Tops
    • Butterick
    • Simplicity
    • Seamwork Magazine
    • Patterns by Gertie
    • View All
  • Dresses
    • Butterick
    • McCall’s
    • Vintage Vogue
    • Simplicity
    • Colette Patterns
    • Patterns by Gertie
    • View All
  • Skirts
    • Tribe Patterns
    • Self Drafted
    • View All
  • Outerwear
    • Butterick
    • Seamwork Magazine
    • Papercut
    • View All
  • Lingerie
    • Seamwork Magazine
    • Vintage Pattern Selector
    • View All
  • Accessories
    • McCall’s
    • Self Drafted
    • View All
  • Bust Adjustments
    • Darts
    • Gathers
    • Princess Seams
    • View All
  • Techniques & Tips
    • Pattern Drafting
    • Machine Techniques
    • Hand Sewing
    • Other Tips
    • Resource Lists
    • Tools
    • View All

Vintage on Tap

  • START HERE
  • Tops
    • Butterick
    • Simplicity
    • Seamwork Magazine
    • Patterns by Gertie
    • View All
  • Dresses
    • Butterick
    • McCall’s
    • Vintage Vogue
    • Simplicity
    • Colette Patterns
    • Patterns by Gertie
    • View All
  • Skirts
    • Tribe Patterns
    • Self Drafted
    • View All
  • Outerwear
    • Butterick
    • Seamwork Magazine
    • Papercut
    • View All
  • Lingerie
    • Seamwork Magazine
    • Vintage Pattern Selector
    • View All
  • Accessories
    • McCall’s
    • Self Drafted
    • View All
  • Bust Adjustments
    • Darts
    • Gathers
    • Princess Seams
    • View All
  • Techniques & Tips
    • Pattern Drafting
    • Machine Techniques
    • Hand Sewing
    • Other Tips
    • Resource Lists
    • Tools
    • View All
    • Email
    • Instagram
    • Pinterest
    • Twitter
    • YouTube

How to Sew Vintage Vogue 9280

December 6, 2017

Collar and front bodice of 1948 Vintage Vogue 9280 | Vintage on Tap

 

Can we PLEASE take a moment to admire how epic Vintage Vogue 9280 is?

If you follow me on Instagram, you know that I’ve been saying this since day one of getting my hands on this pattern. The collar slays me over and over– and I can’t get over how this dress looks like it stepped out of a movie scene in the 1940s.

Everything about it is over the top, just how I like it. My inner Drag Queen is a happy girl 😘

 

Sewing tips and video walk through for Vintage Vogue 9280 | Vintage on Tap

 

Spending the time sewing this vintage dress makes me appreciate all the intricacies of small techniques that build on one another.

Full disclosure- there is a lot of hand sewing on this piece. But, there’s something absolutely beautiful about pulling out all the skills you’ve acquired over time, growing them into a head turner piece.

I can imagine for someone attempting to sew for the first time, it can seem like an unreachable goal. But guess what- you can make it, too!

 

1940s vintage sewing, Vintage Vogue 9280 video walkthrough | Vintage on Tap

 

Is Vintage Vogue 9280 complicated? Yes and No.

For intermediate and advanced seamstresses, this retro dress is not a challenge, but more of a process, meticulously working your skills into a finished piece. You can observe the instructions, nod your head in understanding, and jump in.

For a beginner, though, this dress is a journey. Expect to take your time with it, completing one step at a time with patience, as you push your experience further. Make the dress with love and care, and accept the journey.

 

Collar close up, Vintage Vogue 9280 | Vintage on Tap

 

Machine sewing, Vintage sewing techniques and walkthrough | Vintage on Tap

 

Are there things I would have done differently with this piece? Yes.

I don’t have a laundry list of changes I would have done, but I have a few points you may want to consider as you’re working on this dress. None of them are particularly difficult, though, and the pattern is very straight from the envelope (and of course after you’ve done your fitting!)

 

Vintage Vogue 9280, sewing walkthrough and sewing help | Vintage on Tap

 

Consideration #1: Figure out what camisole you want to wear under this dress.

As you can see in my completed photos, I wore a black camisole since it was the only piece of clothing that I owned that could work with this piece!

Less than ideal.

Remember that this dress completely opens up above the waist and is generally form fitting, so whatever is worn underneath should match in some capacity. Also, depending on your bust size, you may see more (or less) of the camisole.

 

Vintage Vogue 9280, how to sew 1940s clothing | Vintage on Tap

 

Consideration #2: Wear a slip or light petticoat under V9280 for a better flare on the skirt.

No need to go crazy with a petticoat, but a couple layers of pleated tulle would be enough to give a little bit of a perk to the skirt while you’re swooshing around in it.

This is particularly noticeable at the center front, where the skirt inadvertently creates a pleat and sort of “sticks out” if you’re standing still. Not really a problem, but a light pannier would be more than enough.

 

Vintage Vogue 9280, sewing walkthrough | Vintage on Tap

 

Consideration #3: Re-Fit the dress before committing to the side closure.

This point is probably my biggest note, especially after having fitted the dress earlier in the video series.

Essentially what you need to consider is that when you’re matching up the center front of the dress during the fitting, you’re assuming that the center front will overlap- but it doesn’t when worn.

The center front is completely open once the piece is sewn up, causing the top of the dress to open up naturally and create a lot of extra ease in the side seams.

Suggestions to “fix” the issue:

  • Stitch further up the center front seam, closing up the center front (will require drafting changes to the collar pattern pieces)
  • Attach some sort of closure to the back of the detachable collar piece, to close the center front and bring in the extra fabric at the side seams
  • Nip in the side seams, committing more to the open-front look (may require redrafting a muslin with the collar open more realistically)

 

1940s Vintage Vogue 9280, learn about retro sewing with this video walkthrough | Vintage on Tap

 

You can see in my images that there are some gathers/extra fabric under my breasts at the side seams, which I’m guessing is because of this design feature— as well as the weight of the collar (each lapel had 6 layers of fabric.)

If I were to make this again tomorrow, I would opt for closing up the center front so I could kill multiple birds with one stone: not need a camisole and get a better fit under the breasts. 

 

Hand sewing, Vintage sewing techniques and walkthrough | Vintage on Tap

 

What I appreciated the most about Vintage Vogue 9280 was the lack of corner-cutting in the instructions.

Hand sewing everywhere, bound button holes (watch the Bound Buttonhole video here), waist stay, side snaps, and sew-in interfacing! Of course, to a strictly modern seamstress, all of it may seem excessive, but if you’re into doing it old school, this pattern has it all.

Even the shoulder pads are made from scratch. And they are amazing. I may have to make myself an additional set to properly finish my Butterick 6282 US Navy Dress.

 

1940s Vintage Vogue 9280, learn about retro sewing with this video walkthrough | Vintage on Tap

Pinning bodice, Vintage Vogue 9280 | Vintage on Tap

Bodice interior, Vintage Vogue 9280 | Vintage on Tap

 

Embrace the sewing techniques.

Sew-in interfacing is (arguably) easier to deal with than iron-on. Simply cut and baste and in a similar way as underlining, and the “interfacing” lends its qualities to the shell fabric.

In my case, I went with the pattern suggestion of using muslin, which lended a stable but soft feel to the collar pieces without being unnecessarily stiff.

 

Collar close up, Vintage Vogue 9280 | Vintage on Tap

Collar interior, Vintage Vogue 9280 | Vintage on Tap

 

Take care to match up your collar pattern pieces as closely as possible. With this style of collar, the drama makes any inconsistencies obvious. If you’ve had to make changes at the pattern level, be sure to walk your pattern pieces until you’re confident you’re good to go.

 

Back view, Vintage Vogue 9280 | Vintage on Tap

 

The only modern change I would make to the materials list would be a square piece of iron on interfacing at the center back pleat.

Unfortunately the weight of the Vogue 9280 skirt is immense and I had to go back several times to try and reinforce that pulling point.

You can see from the drag lines, the weight of the skirt is being yanked down at that point, even after reinforcing the pleat to the center back darts.

 

Vintage Vogue 9280, how to sew 1940s clothing | Vintage on Tap

 

All in all, Vintage Vogue 9280 was challenging but in a good way.

When I unfolded the directions, I turned to look at Jose and said something to the effect of… “This one is going to be a biggie.” — it didn’t disappoint and is probably one of the longest videos we’ve ever filmed!

For such a luscious retro piece, I’m happy to own it and to be able to pull it out of my closet for a night out with friends, sipping champagne and being fabulous.

Vintage Vogue 9280, sewing walkthrough | Vintage on Tap

 

Need additional sewing and fitting help with this piece? Check out the V9280 Sewing Compendium!

The sewing compendium has just finished up, and from the response has been an amazing resource if you’re planning on tackling this coat dress.

It’s a three part email series that matches up with the videos in this series, giving you extra resources for making this piece!

 

Get the V9280 Sewing Compendium!

Get the V9280 Compendium series, featuring additional fitting tips, sewing techniques, and fabric ideas for your next vintage style Coat Dress!

Success! Now check your email to confirm your subscription and get your first V9280 email!

There was an error submitting your subscription. Please try again.

I hate spam as much as you do. Unsubscribe at any time! Powered by ConvertKit

1940s vintage sewing, Vintage Vogue 9280 video walkthrough | Vintage on Tap

 

Pin this Post!!

 

How to Sew Vintage Vogue 9280, from the 1940s. This is a full video walk through on how to make this vintage reproduction dress. | Vintage on Tap

 


 

This post is part of the Vintage Vogue 9280 Video series! Check out the other installment of this series by clicking the image below:

Sewing Vintage Vogue V9280 video series! This series breaks down the fitting and sewing process for this 1940s piece | Vintage on Tap

 

Subscribe to Vintage on Tap on YouTube!

 

Thank you, McCall’s Pattern Company, for making this video series and collaboration possible!

All the Places, All the Stuff!

Never miss a post by following me on Bloglovin’!
Or go mobile- I’m on Instagram and YouTube!

Filed Under: Dresses, Vintage Vogue Tagged With: 1940s, Britex Fabrics, Vintage Vogue

You might also love

  • Vintage Vogue 9280 is a gorgeous dress. Learn how to fit this 1948 retro dress. | Vintage on TapHow to Fit the 1948 Vintage Vogue 9280!
  • Sewing Vintage Vogue V9280 video series! This series breaks down the fitting and sewing process for this 1940s piece | Vintage on TapThe Vintage Vogue V9280 Sewing Series!
  • How to Sew Vintage 1940s Navy Dress, Butterick B6282 | Vintage on TapVintage B6282: How to Sew a 1940s Navy Dress!
  • Butterick Gertie B6453 Sew Along, Sewing View A | Vintage on TapGertie B6453 Sew Along View A, Video!
Bound Buttonholes Through a Lining or Facing, Video Tutorial »
« Intro to Drafting a Facing and Lining Combo!

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Kouign_amman says

    December 10, 2017 at 6:21 pm

    Hi there, I really enjoyed your video series! All said and done, here’s what confuses me: The fashion illustration on the pattern envelope and the line drawing are different it seems. For me I like the look of the buttons sitting below the bust line (pattern envelope fashion illustration) and not the look of the line drawing illustration where the buttons creep up the bust line. I think the buttons below the bust line gives a cleaner more tailored look. Because of your video series when I make this, I’ll be looking change that aspect of the pattern. Thoughts?

    Reply
    • Bianca says

      December 11, 2017 at 2:12 pm

      Thanks so much for watching the series!!

      Moving the buttons down is definitely not a bad idea– even moving them closer together in a way that fits your torso length might be something to consider as well. Looking back on it, I probably could have done the same, making those buttons closer set. The only thing to watch out for, though, is that when they’re moved closer to the waist line under the bust, the collar might open up more. If that’s ok, then I think you’ll be good to go moving them farther down 👍🏽

      Reply
  2. danitacourtney says

    December 7, 2017 at 8:58 am

    Wow! This is the complete package! Your hair, makeup and shoes all are complements to this stunning piece of work dress that is fabulous! You look like you just stepped out of a vintage movie! Yet you are explaining a process that is both complex and doable! I appreciate all your candid views on how this pattern can be altered to fit better due to the construction of the pieces and the material chosen. Thank you for leading the pack on this challenging journey! Relish your amazing accomplishment and go out for those drinks with friends, dressed to impress! You deserve it!

    Reply
    • Bianca says

      December 11, 2017 at 2:09 pm

      Thank you so much for your beautiful comment, Danita!! It was such a joy to sew, but it came together so beautifully and I’m so happy people liked it. It’s definitely a project a little bit off the beaten track, but I’m happy to have sewn it up ☺️

      Reply

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

Primary Sidebar

My name is Bianca, I'm 34 years old, and a California girl through and through 🏖

I inspire people to sew, to feel comfortable and confident in their bodies, and am an avid lover of tiki culture and Vintage Style Not Vintage Values!

Discover More Vintage Sewing

Tiki Dress, Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing, pin up style | @vintageontap
Completed: The Tiki Dress
Video tutorial for the Colette Patterns Penny shirtdress | Vintage on Tap
How to Sew the Colette Penny, Sewing Tips!
Video Tips for Sewing Butterick 6453 View B!

Patterns by Gertie, Butterick 6453, Jenny Dress sew along | Vintage on Tap
Patterns by Gertie Butterick 6453, Video Tutorial!
Vintage Vogue V8789 | Vintage on Tap
Video and Sewing Tips for Vintage Vogue V8789
How to sew Vintage 1955 McCalls 7625 | Vintage on Tap
Sewing Vintage McCall’s 7625, Video Walkthrough!

ARCHIVES

CATEGORIES

POPULAR POSTS

This is the Colette Rue dress made with supplies purchased at Mood Fabrics | @vintageontap

The Colette Rue Dress

Rago Shapewear Girdle, Pinup Weightloss as a Seamstress | @vintageontap

Weightloss as a Seamstress, Revisted

Organizing your sewing patterns, digitally and storing correctly | @vintageontap

Organizing your Sewing Patterns, How to Video

How to Sew a Kickpleat, Completed Kickpleat| @vintageontap

How to Sew a Kickpleat

Footer

Copyright © 2022 · LBD Pro V on Genesis Framework · WordPress · Log in

It's important to take time off to give your brain It's important to take time off to give your brain time TO THINK and FIND INSPIRATION ✨⁠
⁠
From Old Trafford to Buckingham Palace, the V&A Museum to Bath... to Edinburgh! From a quick 5 minute visit to the Jane Austen Museum in Bath... to the ACTUAL Roman baths... and... even... Stonehenge- up close and personal 😱 (I actually cried there- it was so powerful and overwhelming.)⁠
⁠
While "wanderlust" and "omg take me back!" tend to encapsulate a lot of pop travel, I was instead left with the idea that... ⁠
⁠
WOW. It's really important to "shut off" regular life sometimes, to let your mind breathe and to allow new ideas to formulate. To reconnect with what actually makes you excited to get up in the morning. ⁠
⁠
I know this is a luxury for a lot of people-- actually, for most of us, with the grind of day-to-day life. But. When the opportunity arises, it's never a bad idea. ⁠
⁠
For me this sort of big trip is a rarity and my daily "shut off" moment is instead my coffee in the morning, with my journal and my tarot cards.⁠
⁠
What's yours? ⁠
⁠
#travelforthesoul #mentalhealth #sewinginspiration #uktravel⁠
⁠
Wait- has it already been TWO WEEKS since coming b Wait- has it already been TWO WEEKS since coming back from the UK? GET OUT 😱⁠
⁠
It was such a beautiful trip, being present for @luka1502 and @mr_mistta 's wedding! ⁠
⁠
Sharing a few photos of the Big Day that I really loved-- though more photos of the rest of the trip coming this week. ⁠
⁠
Super happy that we got to go- the ceremony was really magical 💍⁠
⁠
🥲⁠
⁠
#britishwedding #morningwear #vintageinspired #1950svintage
Not every project makes it onto the 'gram. Actuall Not every project makes it onto the 'gram. Actually, lately, it's been none of mine 😅⁠
⁠
Including this @jessssiemae beanie that I made back in November (!!) for my low-key chill wedding anniversary trip to Reno 😛⁠
⁠
Why? Just not wanting the pressure of having to dress up for a photo... sometimes it's just nice to wear what you've made without the stress of it all. ⁠
⁠
Any projects of yours flying under the radar? ⁠
⁠
I ended up pulling out this #puffypoufhat for my trip last weekend out to Vancouver and ya-- I was sooo glad I had it 🥶⁠
⁠
#millennialknitting #knitstagram #slowfashionmovement
Breaking the IG posting indecision, and posting a Breaking the IG posting indecision, and posting a smiling photo... just because 😝⁠
⁠
Actually, besides getting knocked on my butt with my booster shot these past couple days, things are going well over in my corner of the world. ⁠
⁠
Working on a few fun goals this quarter (NOT "resolutions") and they just ~feel right.~ Major shout out to @muchelleb / @lifemapcollective who shifted my perspective from BIG GOALS to... time bound, specific, actionable quarterly goals. I'd been starting to lean in that direction last year, and this year, it's been how I've been approaching my days. ⁠
⁠
🧵Most Important Goal: Developing a personal health regimen. This goes beyond "lose weight" and "work out" - but cultivating practices that energize me. It looks like... drinking lemon water first thing in the AM with my vitamins. Or getting back to my regular meditation practice. Ya, some workouts thrown in, but a more holistic approach. ⁠
⁠
🧵: Develop Creative Flow (again.) Y'all know I've struggled with this one in recent years-- between being distracted due to work, low energy (lol) or just generally self sabotaging due to excessive tech use. I can see this one being my ultimate focus for 2022, but for now, setting up those routines to celebrate and recognize what "creative flow" looks like in my life. Might be spending an hour winding yarn or cleaning my sewing tools and getting lost in the process... doesn't have to necessarily be producing an output. More options are on the table. ⁠
⁠
🧵: Learn about and practice Digital Minimalism. I posted about this on my stories last week, but tldr, reducing and being more intentional about my tech usage. No, I'm not leaving IG 😅 But what I am doing is... only checking IG via desktop and only a handful accounts at a time, no phone in the bedroom at night, my phone is *always* on DND. And don't get me wrong, I love my iPhone. But this feeds that Creative Flow piece. I need the focus of uninterrupted time to get into my craft again. ⁠
⁠
Anyway, would love to hear from you if you have some quarterly goals set up this year or if you're also embarking on similar journeys! ⁠
⁠
#lifemapcollective #digitalminimalism
On my mind lately is... the struggle of getting in On my mind lately is... the struggle of getting into the creative flow 🌊 ⁠
⁠
Low key, high key, I've been struggling with this for a while lately but I've only just come to grips with it in the last couple months 🤨⁠
⁠
Luckily (ha!) I know I'm not the only one, so I've been binging on inspirational content and feeling a lot better about it, day by day. ⁠
⁠
Few things which are helping the process:⁠
⁠
🧵 @andyjpizza 's podcast, The Creative Pep Talk.⁠
🧵 Books, in the flesh. Art books, sewing books, physical books that take me away from the screen and into the basics of what inspired a creative lifestyle.⁠
🧵 Spending time with friends and with @josecarlosvivanco , focusing on being present, rather than self blaming myself for my lack of creative output.⁠
⁠
Healing? Absolutely. ⁠
⁠
I've been mostly succeeding in trying not to think about how a majority of what's in my closet right now is RTW. That I'm _physically_ uncomfortable in my clothes most of the time due to my current weight. And that the beautiful serger I got for my birthday in September is still sitting in its box. ⁠
⁠
But no pity party here. Just gratitude that I'm at peace with all of this and working my way back into flexing my creative muscles, my physical muscles at the gym (oh how I've missed it) and looking forward to the long holiday break because my mind needs rest. ⁠
⁠
Lots of love to all of you still following me here on Instagram 🙂 I miss our regular chats! ⁠
⁠
#VoT #stitchwitch
Two years married, eight together 💍. Still send Two years married, eight together 💍. Still sending each other @nytimes links, falling down YouTube rabbit holes (current binge: scamming-the-scammer prank videos) and generally getting into random creative adventures involving a sewing machine and a Black Magic camera.⁠
⁠
Love you, @josecarlosvivanco !! My life has never been the same since I met you at the Stef’s 😉 Here’s to the next one~
Small photo dump of St. Thomas adventures 😉⁠⁠
⁠⁠
Honestly, it was a trip extremely needed after everything that's happened 🧘⁠⁠
⁠⁠
Super thankful to the friends who I got to share this with. We did it: power outages, tropical storms, iguanas and all!⁠⁠
⁠⁠
#VoTtravels
TAKE ME BACK ☀️🏖️! (Seriously thinking ab TAKE ME BACK ☀️🏖️! (Seriously thinking about my next Grand Escape haha)
Flashback Friday to one of my favorite nooks from Flashback Friday to one of my favorite nooks from The Castro 😎⁠⁠
⁠⁠
Saw it on my camera roll, got nostalgic, wanted to reshare 🌈⁠⁠
⁠⁠
Only 15 more days till Pride month, too, OMGGGGG!⁠⁠
⁠⁠
#memade #vintageinspired #livingcolorfully #bisexualvisibility
Seriously 😉 ⁠ ⁠ The Big 4 is great and all Seriously 😉 ⁠
⁠
The Big 4 is great and all (...and my 1k pattern collection proves this!)-- but let's try out some new patterns, new designers, and fresh perspectives.⁠
⁠
Any new pattern designers you're excited about right now? Let me know down below!⁠
⁠
Looking for new design inspiration? Go watch my latest YouTube video (linked in bio) if you're looking to expand your sewing horizon!⁠
⁠
#sewingfun #sewinglife #sewingtips #sewingwithlove #sewingprojects #sewcialistsofinstagram #sewcial #sewVoT

Copyright © 2022 · Vintage on Tap · Blog Design by Little Blue Deer
Privacy Policy