• Email
  • Instagram
  • Pinterest
  • Twitter
  • YouTube
  • Skip to primary navigation
  • Skip to main content
  • Skip to primary sidebar
  • Skip to footer
  • START HERE
  • Tops
    • Butterick
    • Simplicity
    • Seamwork Magazine
    • Patterns by Gertie
    • View All
  • Dresses
    • Butterick
    • McCall’s
    • Vintage Vogue
    • Simplicity
    • Colette Patterns
    • Patterns by Gertie
    • View All
  • Skirts
    • Tribe Patterns
    • Self Drafted
    • View All
  • Outerwear
    • Butterick
    • Seamwork Magazine
    • Papercut
    • View All
  • Lingerie
    • Seamwork Magazine
    • Vintage Pattern Selector
    • View All
  • Accessories
    • McCall’s
    • Self Drafted
    • View All
  • Bust Adjustments
    • Darts
    • Gathers
    • Princess Seams
    • View All
  • Techniques & Tips
    • Pattern Drafting
    • Machine Techniques
    • Hand Sewing
    • Other Tips
    • Resource Lists
    • Tools
    • View All

Vintage on Tap

  • START HERE
  • Tops
    • Butterick
    • Simplicity
    • Seamwork Magazine
    • Patterns by Gertie
    • View All
  • Dresses
    • Butterick
    • McCall’s
    • Vintage Vogue
    • Simplicity
    • Colette Patterns
    • Patterns by Gertie
    • View All
  • Skirts
    • Tribe Patterns
    • Self Drafted
    • View All
  • Outerwear
    • Butterick
    • Seamwork Magazine
    • Papercut
    • View All
  • Lingerie
    • Seamwork Magazine
    • Vintage Pattern Selector
    • View All
  • Accessories
    • McCall’s
    • Self Drafted
    • View All
  • Bust Adjustments
    • Darts
    • Gathers
    • Princess Seams
    • View All
  • Techniques & Tips
    • Pattern Drafting
    • Machine Techniques
    • Hand Sewing
    • Other Tips
    • Resource Lists
    • Tools
    • View All
    • Email
    • Instagram
    • Pinterest
    • Twitter
    • YouTube

Intro to Drafting a Facing and Lining Combo!

December 20, 2017

Drafting a facing and lining combination for a garment, video tutorial | Vintage on Tap

Drafting a facing and lining combination is not as difficult as it may seem- and the results are gorgeous.

The reason I love having both a facing and lining in my heartier garments is that I love the professional look and feel: the two pieces together feel more luxurious and intentional.

There are plenty of garments that include either only the facing- or only the lining, and while there’s no wrong answer, if there’s an option to do both without much trouble, I like to proceed in that route.

Places where drafting a lining and facing might be appropriate include, (but are not limited to)…

  • Coats
  • Capes
  • Blazers and jackets
  • Summer dresses that want to be winter-ized
  • Skirts

 

Interior, lining view after sewing a vintage lining | Vintage on Tap

Interior lining, Rockabilly Bomber sewn with the Rigel Bomber pattern | @VintageonTap

Of course, there are always multiple factors to consider when deciding if drafting a facing and lining is right for you or for your project.

Questions you may want to consider before proceeding with this include:

  • Is the garment simple enough for this not to be a problem?
  • Will this add extra bulk?
  • Is the shell fabric too thin/see through to need that extra layer for opacity?
  • How many sharp curves will I need to manage on the interior layer?
  • Is the facing/lining close enough in size/dimension to the shell garment? (If it’s not)- how difficult is it going to be to proportionally add a lining that corresponds to the shell? (see video tutorial!)

If the above answers to the questions above sound reasonable, definitely give it a shot on a muslin.

 

How to draft a facing and a lining combination. This video tutorial shows you how to get the job done quickly and easily! | Vintage on Tap

Before beginning…

Review my following tutorial videos:

  • How to Trace a Sewing Pattern
  • How to Use a French Curve
  • How to Redraft a Facing

The above tutorials get you prepped and ready for the beginning of this particular tutorial video.

Of course, every situation and every pattern differ, but if you’re unfamiliar with the above techniques, I highly recommend taking a look!

 

This video teaches you how to draft a facing and lining together for your home sewn garments! | Vintage on Tap

Step One: Eval the type of pattern you’re working with.

Because each pattern can differ so much, approaching the pattern with a well-thought out, methodical approach is key!

If your pattern came with just the facing-

  • Tape up any darts or corresponding shell pieces that may affect the area where the facing will be attached.
  • Overlap the facing to the shell piece, to verify if the facing is an exact copy of the shell.
  • If the facing is the same as the shell, perfect, you’re good to go!
  • If the facing is NOT the same size as the shell, note the difference. Ask the following questions:
    • Is the difference between the two a design element?
    • Does the facing serve an additional purpose than just being a facing?
    • How “off” are the two?

If the facing is substantially different than the shell, you may not be able to draft a lining to it. As I noted above, each pattern can vary widely. But please note, most of the time you can draft a corresponding lining, but you may need to figure out an individual solution for your particular pattern. Please be sure to watch the remainder of the video tutorial to see if it will make sense for your design.

If your pattern came with just the lining-
  • Verify that the lining matches the shell
  • If the lining is NOT the same size as the shell, note the difference. Ask the following questions:
    • Is the difference between the two a design element?
    • How “off” are the two?

If the lining is substantially different than the shell, double check that you’ve taped up any darts or tucks that may be in the lining, but not present in the shell. There are occasions when the lining may have additional pleats/tucks/darts, and your facing should (generally) correspond more closely to the shell than to a lining with these sorts of details.

If your pattern came without either a facing or lining-
  • Trace an additional copy of the shell as your working piece. That’s it 🙂
How to draft a facing and lining combo, with video! | Vintage on Tap

Step Two: Trace your pattern pieces onto a “working” piece of paper

If your pattern came with just the facing-

  • Trace the shell onto a clean sheet of paper
  • Overlap the facing onto the shell tracing and copy the facing onto it
  • Make sure to transfer all pattern markings

If your pattern came with just the lining-

  • Trace out a brand new copy of the lining
  • Make sure to transfer all the pattern markings

If your pattern came without either a facing or lining-

  • Trace the shell
  • Make sure to transfer all pattern markings

 

Step Three: Draw in your stitch line

If your pattern came with just the facing-

  • Measure UP from the bottom edge of the facing the amount of your seam allowance

If your pattern came with just the lining OR If your pattern came without either a facing or lining-

  • If you haven’t already viewed the How to Redraft a Facing video tutorial, now is the time!
  • Measure DOWN from the top edge of the shell the amount of the new facing you would like to add

 

Drafting a facing and lining combo on a garment isn't hard with this tutorial! | Vintage on Tap

Step Four: Add your seam allowances

If your pattern came with just the facing-
  • Trace a line above your stitch line, the amount of your seam allowance
  • You should have a total of three lines drawn, parallel to one another

If your pattern came with just the lining OR If your pattern came without either a facing or lining-

  • Trace a line both above AND bellow the stitch line, the amount of your seam allowance
  • You should have a total of three lines drawn, parallel to one another

 

Learn how to make a facing and lining combination piece | Vintage on Tap

Step Five: Trace the two new pattern pieces from your working paper

From here, you are home free!

View the diagram in the photo above, or in the tutorial video for more info as to which seam allowance goes where. Essentially, your three parallel lines correspond in opposite directions:

  1. Lining Seam Allowance 
  2. Stitch Line
  3. Facing Seam Allowance

 

Please note that in my video, I discuss the curvature of the stitch line and how that may be difficult to sew. Evaluate the curve in your stitch line in Step Three, before adding your seam allowances.

 

Pin this Post!!

How to draft a combined facing and lining, video tutorial! | Vintage on Tap


All the Places, All the Stuff!

Never miss a post by following me on Bloglovin’!
Or go mobile- I’m on Instagram and YouTube!
Subscribe to Vintage on Tap on YouTube!

Filed Under: Pattern Drafting, Techniques & Tips

You might also love

  • Butterick B5821, Lining a Coat Using Vintage Techniques | Vintage on TapSewing Vintage Linings, Butterick B5824 [Collab + Video]
  • Collection of pattern designs, available from three new independent sewing pattern companiesPDF Pattern Companies to Try in 2021
  • How to use a French Curve, tutorial | Vintage on TapHow to Use a French Curve, Video Tutorial!
  • How to Sew a Bias Facing, video tutorial | Vintage on TapHow Sew a Bias Facing, Video Tutorial
How to Sew Vintage Vogue 9280 »
« 2018 New Year ReSEWlutions + Channel Updates!

Reader Interactions

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

Primary Sidebar

My name is Bianca, I'm 34 years old, and a California girl through and through 🏖

I inspire people to sew, to feel comfortable and confident in their bodies, and am an avid lover of tiki culture and Vintage Style Not Vintage Values!

Discover More Vintage Sewing

Intro to Dart Rotation | Vintage on Tap
Intro to Dart Rotation, a Quick Sewing Overview
Bianca with her hands on the table, above a sewing pattern.
Petite Pattern Adjustments for Fuller Figures
Butterick B5821, Lining a Coat Using Vintage Techniques | Vintage on Tap
Sewing Vintage Linings, Butterick B5824 [Collab + Video]

How to Sew a Kickpleat, Completed Kickpleat| @vintageontap
How to Sew a Kickpleat
Anatomy of an FBA, How it works and how to perform the adjustment | Vintage on Tap, Pinup and Sewing Blog
How it Works: Anatomy of a Full Bust Adjustment
Organizing your sewing patterns, digitally and storing correctly | @vintageontap
Organizing your Sewing Patterns, How to Video

ARCHIVES

CATEGORIES

POPULAR POSTS

This is the Colette Rue dress made with supplies purchased at Mood Fabrics | @vintageontap

The Colette Rue Dress

Rago Shapewear Girdle, Pinup Weightloss as a Seamstress | @vintageontap

Weightloss as a Seamstress, Revisted

Organizing your sewing patterns, digitally and storing correctly | @vintageontap

Organizing your Sewing Patterns, How to Video

How to Sew a Kickpleat, Completed Kickpleat| @vintageontap

How to Sew a Kickpleat

Footer

Copyright © 2022 · LBD Pro V on Genesis Framework · WordPress · Log in

It's important to take time off to give your brain It's important to take time off to give your brain time TO THINK and FIND INSPIRATION ✨⁠
⁠
From Old Trafford to Buckingham Palace, the V&A Museum to Bath... to Edinburgh! From a quick 5 minute visit to the Jane Austen Museum in Bath... to the ACTUAL Roman baths... and... even... Stonehenge- up close and personal 😱 (I actually cried there- it was so powerful and overwhelming.)⁠
⁠
While "wanderlust" and "omg take me back!" tend to encapsulate a lot of pop travel, I was instead left with the idea that... ⁠
⁠
WOW. It's really important to "shut off" regular life sometimes, to let your mind breathe and to allow new ideas to formulate. To reconnect with what actually makes you excited to get up in the morning. ⁠
⁠
I know this is a luxury for a lot of people-- actually, for most of us, with the grind of day-to-day life. But. When the opportunity arises, it's never a bad idea. ⁠
⁠
For me this sort of big trip is a rarity and my daily "shut off" moment is instead my coffee in the morning, with my journal and my tarot cards.⁠
⁠
What's yours? ⁠
⁠
#travelforthesoul #mentalhealth #sewinginspiration #uktravel⁠
⁠
Wait- has it already been TWO WEEKS since coming b Wait- has it already been TWO WEEKS since coming back from the UK? GET OUT 😱⁠
⁠
It was such a beautiful trip, being present for @luka1502 and @mr_mistta 's wedding! ⁠
⁠
Sharing a few photos of the Big Day that I really loved-- though more photos of the rest of the trip coming this week. ⁠
⁠
Super happy that we got to go- the ceremony was really magical 💍⁠
⁠
🥲⁠
⁠
#britishwedding #morningwear #vintageinspired #1950svintage
Not every project makes it onto the 'gram. Actuall Not every project makes it onto the 'gram. Actually, lately, it's been none of mine 😅⁠
⁠
Including this @jessssiemae beanie that I made back in November (!!) for my low-key chill wedding anniversary trip to Reno 😛⁠
⁠
Why? Just not wanting the pressure of having to dress up for a photo... sometimes it's just nice to wear what you've made without the stress of it all. ⁠
⁠
Any projects of yours flying under the radar? ⁠
⁠
I ended up pulling out this #puffypoufhat for my trip last weekend out to Vancouver and ya-- I was sooo glad I had it 🥶⁠
⁠
#millennialknitting #knitstagram #slowfashionmovement
Breaking the IG posting indecision, and posting a Breaking the IG posting indecision, and posting a smiling photo... just because 😝⁠
⁠
Actually, besides getting knocked on my butt with my booster shot these past couple days, things are going well over in my corner of the world. ⁠
⁠
Working on a few fun goals this quarter (NOT "resolutions") and they just ~feel right.~ Major shout out to @muchelleb / @lifemapcollective who shifted my perspective from BIG GOALS to... time bound, specific, actionable quarterly goals. I'd been starting to lean in that direction last year, and this year, it's been how I've been approaching my days. ⁠
⁠
🧵Most Important Goal: Developing a personal health regimen. This goes beyond "lose weight" and "work out" - but cultivating practices that energize me. It looks like... drinking lemon water first thing in the AM with my vitamins. Or getting back to my regular meditation practice. Ya, some workouts thrown in, but a more holistic approach. ⁠
⁠
🧵: Develop Creative Flow (again.) Y'all know I've struggled with this one in recent years-- between being distracted due to work, low energy (lol) or just generally self sabotaging due to excessive tech use. I can see this one being my ultimate focus for 2022, but for now, setting up those routines to celebrate and recognize what "creative flow" looks like in my life. Might be spending an hour winding yarn or cleaning my sewing tools and getting lost in the process... doesn't have to necessarily be producing an output. More options are on the table. ⁠
⁠
🧵: Learn about and practice Digital Minimalism. I posted about this on my stories last week, but tldr, reducing and being more intentional about my tech usage. No, I'm not leaving IG 😅 But what I am doing is... only checking IG via desktop and only a handful accounts at a time, no phone in the bedroom at night, my phone is *always* on DND. And don't get me wrong, I love my iPhone. But this feeds that Creative Flow piece. I need the focus of uninterrupted time to get into my craft again. ⁠
⁠
Anyway, would love to hear from you if you have some quarterly goals set up this year or if you're also embarking on similar journeys! ⁠
⁠
#lifemapcollective #digitalminimalism
On my mind lately is... the struggle of getting in On my mind lately is... the struggle of getting into the creative flow 🌊 ⁠
⁠
Low key, high key, I've been struggling with this for a while lately but I've only just come to grips with it in the last couple months 🤨⁠
⁠
Luckily (ha!) I know I'm not the only one, so I've been binging on inspirational content and feeling a lot better about it, day by day. ⁠
⁠
Few things which are helping the process:⁠
⁠
🧵 @andyjpizza 's podcast, The Creative Pep Talk.⁠
🧵 Books, in the flesh. Art books, sewing books, physical books that take me away from the screen and into the basics of what inspired a creative lifestyle.⁠
🧵 Spending time with friends and with @josecarlosvivanco , focusing on being present, rather than self blaming myself for my lack of creative output.⁠
⁠
Healing? Absolutely. ⁠
⁠
I've been mostly succeeding in trying not to think about how a majority of what's in my closet right now is RTW. That I'm _physically_ uncomfortable in my clothes most of the time due to my current weight. And that the beautiful serger I got for my birthday in September is still sitting in its box. ⁠
⁠
But no pity party here. Just gratitude that I'm at peace with all of this and working my way back into flexing my creative muscles, my physical muscles at the gym (oh how I've missed it) and looking forward to the long holiday break because my mind needs rest. ⁠
⁠
Lots of love to all of you still following me here on Instagram 🙂 I miss our regular chats! ⁠
⁠
#VoT #stitchwitch
Two years married, eight together 💍. Still send Two years married, eight together 💍. Still sending each other @nytimes links, falling down YouTube rabbit holes (current binge: scamming-the-scammer prank videos) and generally getting into random creative adventures involving a sewing machine and a Black Magic camera.⁠
⁠
Love you, @josecarlosvivanco !! My life has never been the same since I met you at the Stef’s 😉 Here’s to the next one~
Small photo dump of St. Thomas adventures 😉⁠⁠
⁠⁠
Honestly, it was a trip extremely needed after everything that's happened 🧘⁠⁠
⁠⁠
Super thankful to the friends who I got to share this with. We did it: power outages, tropical storms, iguanas and all!⁠⁠
⁠⁠
#VoTtravels
TAKE ME BACK ☀️🏖️! (Seriously thinking ab TAKE ME BACK ☀️🏖️! (Seriously thinking about my next Grand Escape haha)
Flashback Friday to one of my favorite nooks from Flashback Friday to one of my favorite nooks from The Castro 😎⁠⁠
⁠⁠
Saw it on my camera roll, got nostalgic, wanted to reshare 🌈⁠⁠
⁠⁠
Only 15 more days till Pride month, too, OMGGGGG!⁠⁠
⁠⁠
#memade #vintageinspired #livingcolorfully #bisexualvisibility
Seriously 😉 ⁠ ⁠ The Big 4 is great and all Seriously 😉 ⁠
⁠
The Big 4 is great and all (...and my 1k pattern collection proves this!)-- but let's try out some new patterns, new designers, and fresh perspectives.⁠
⁠
Any new pattern designers you're excited about right now? Let me know down below!⁠
⁠
Looking for new design inspiration? Go watch my latest YouTube video (linked in bio) if you're looking to expand your sewing horizon!⁠
⁠
#sewingfun #sewinglife #sewingtips #sewingwithlove #sewingprojects #sewcialistsofinstagram #sewcial #sewVoT

Copyright © 2022 · Vintage on Tap · Blog Design by Little Blue Deer
Privacy Policy