Category: Other Tips

  • Critical Sewing First Steps

    Critical Sewing First Steps

    This post breaks down the critical sewing first steps you don’t want to miss when you’re starting a new project. 

    I break down my learnings from 20 years sewing experience, trial and error, and tips I’ve picked up in fashion school and along the way.

    It is very important to have a strong start to your project from the moment you pick out your sewing pattern.

    Taking time from the very beginning to set up for success goes a long way at making your projects easy to approach.

    Sewing First Steps: Pattern Foundations [Timestamp 00:36]

    Ask yourself: is this the right pattern for you?

    While there are so many beautiful sewing patterns in the world, taking the time to determine if you’re using the right pattern for your sewing skill level is critical. Some patterns may be too complicated, too intricate, or use techniques you’ve never tried before. This may extend out to using fabric and materials you’ve never worked with before, too.

    Use two tools to deep dive into it: a sewing notebook and the internet, which support your sewing detective work, to learn your project.

    Google the pattern you’re about to make. When doing so, don’t just admire the pretty photos or videos (though those help!) Instead, look for and critically observe other people’s projects, noting other sewist’s comments on complicated aspects of the design, instructions, or even corrections and work arounds. Take copious notes you can refer to over the course of the project.

    It’s critical to parse through what was difficult or easy for the person who made it, learning from their experience before you even start.

    Image of an unfolded paper sewing pattern, being read with a smiling face.

    For example, when I made a bomber jacket, reviews kept stating that the sleeves were cropped, time and time again. I ignored that advice and… their notes proved 100% correct: the sleeves were too short! Had I actually taken my own advice, I could have lengthened them by the recommended couple inches and had a better jacket.

    Once you feel confident that you know where the pitfalls are, you can move onto your sewing mise en place.

    Laughing, setting up a sewing machine

    Sewing First Steps: Your Sewing mise en place [Timestamp 02:34]

    Mise en place is French for Everything in Place, taken from the cooking world.

    Most people generally understand the importance of getting the sewing space in order, but problems pop up when you’re on a time crunch. Specifically, finding out at the last minute that you’re out of thread and the fabric store closed an hour ago.

    Yes, it has happened to me. Plenty of times.

    Mise en place is more than just all the materials being ready to go- though that’s part of it. It also includes taking inventory of how many items the pattern calls for, what specifically you need (not guessing), and evaluating how long it might take to restock a missing item so you’re not scrambling. 

    For example, this includes making sure your fabric and your pattern pieces are all accounted for. 

    Don’t skip this step.

    It’s easy to skip this step and a lot of people do. This is the difference between your first project and your five thousandth. People who do this professionally do not skip this critical first step: it’s where a lot of unnecessary annoyances and time wasters come, in trying to locate or source a material, or because it’s gone missing in the sewing space, or was accidentally thrown out. 

    Over the shoulder image of a phone displaying a sewing machine manual and diagram, next to a sewing machine

    Sewing First Steps: Setting up your equipment [Timestamp 04:36]

    Most sewing tutorials jump straight into the sewing machine, but it’s important to pause and check out our iron.

    Using a scrap of fashion fabric, adjust your iron’s settings for steam and temperature, validating that they’re correct and won’t damage your raw materials. 

    This is actually something I do before setting up the sewing machine: scorched fabric is easy to spot a mile away, no matter the stitch length or thread tension the garment was sewn with. Take your time here.

    This is also a good time to clean the iron plate for cleanliness.

    Now when it comes to the sewing machine, every machine is different. If you’re brand new to your machine, download the sewing machine manual PDF to your phone for reference during this process. 

    Common settings to check:

    • Needle size for your fabric
    • Stitch length
    • Thread tension
    • Presser foot

    Spend time thinking of all the pattern-specific details you’ll be sewing, like a buttonhole or sewing over interfacing- and test those details out as well. Write this information down to reference over time.

    If you haven’t made a muslin yet, this is the time to make that as well. Check out my tutorials for more details on how to approach your muslins!

    Once your muslin fit is right and you’ve done the recommended steps, you’re ready to put the pedal to the metal and start sewing!

    Hope these details help you on your sewing journey! Let me know down below if you follow these steps or others before you start your project. 

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  • PDF Pattern Companies to Try in 2021

    PDF Pattern Companies to Try in 2021

    Paper or PDF pattern?

    Stack of paper sewing patterns

    It’s easy to have a paper pattern buying addiction. I’m *far* from immune to the 2$ Joann’s pattern sale which has left me with a collection of over 1000 printed sewing patterns. 

    But having so many paper patterns… from the same big companies is kind of a problem.

    These printed patterns take up a lot of space. They also tend to all be designed from the same pattern block. Sometimes, they tend to not be so fresh (design-wise.) And, potentially worse, the designers may be hit or miss as to whether or not they align with your personal values. 

    Enter PDF pattern companies.

    This post features three PDF pattern designers I’m excited about right now and encourage you check out!

    PLEASE NOTE! This is not a sponsored post. I’ve actually not worked with their designs in the past. But I think they’re doing some interesting work and wanted to highlight them in this post.

    Friday Pattern Company

    Their PDF pattern designs are modern but with minimalist sensibilities and some cute details!

    What I particularly love about Friday Pattern Company is that their pdf sewing patterns go up to 7X! The increase in size range makes these designs extremely inclusive, opening the door for more people to dip their toe in and make something that makes them feel like a million bucks. 

    The two patterns below, the Davenport Dress and Sagebrush Top are gorgeous.

    Two models, side by side, modeling garments from the Friday Pattern Company, displaying the range of size inclusivity

    Both designs are feminine, practical, and have a completely different feels if sewn in different fabric. Both are extremely accessible. 

    A few other reasons to be excited about Friday Pattern Company:

    • The Friday Pattern Company size range demonstrates they’ve been committed to the mission for a while.
    • Their patterns are both available in PDF AND paper
    • They donate 5% of their pattern sales to charity and each pattern has a different correlated charity!

    Untitled Thoughts

    Besides being absolutely in love with the company name, the commitment to eco-consciousness is real with Untitled Thoughts! Brittani, who owns the small design studio, goes in depth in the About Me page about how she’s staying committed to caring for the planet.

    This even includes information about the light bulbs which are used in the studio to ensure energy efficiency! 

    The two patterns below, the Amelie and Mathilde dresses are both beautiful, and are really in the spirit of a summer picnic.

    Two dresses side by side, one with an open back and buttons down the back of the skirt, the other as a wrap top, both pdf pattern designs by Untitled Thoughts

    In addition to what I’ve mentioned above, Untitled Thoughts also donates 5-10% to charity. There’s even a yearly transparency report breaking down where the funds were sent! The amount of integrity with Untitled Thoughts is extremely refreshing, and for a PDF pattern company which is a one-person operation, it’s extremely impressive. 

    Bambini del Mare

    The PDF pattern company I’m most excited about right now is Bambini del Mare. Serah, who owns and designs this small brand, is a Bay Area local who attended CCA (California College of the Arts) — just a stone’s throw away from the VoT studio! 

    The two patterns below are my favorite from what has been designed so far:

    Two images of Bambini del Mare PDF patterns, one is a white dress with ruffles on the straps. The other is a bolero that covers the upper torso with fluttery sleeves.

    A couple more reasons I’m excited about Bambini del Mare:

    • The looks are all extremely romantic– they’re all gorgeous and vintage inspired without being frumpy
    • Serah is focused on sustainability and philanthropy and donates 5% of her earnings per quarter to a rotating list of charities.

    PDF pattern companies are doing interesting things.

    Bianca from Vintage on Tap holding up a design from Bambini del Mare on an iPad, talking about PDF pattern companies

    From donating to causes they care about, to going above and beyond with size inclusivity, to even sourcing their sample fabrics to ensure they’re sustainable, it’s extremely impressive. These are examples of what us, as sewing consumers, have an opportunity to support and vote with our dollar on. 

    While working with PDFs can come with their own set of challenges, there’s opportunities to explore new (pattern) points of view and new pattern blocks, all while supporting a small company.

    PDF Sewing Companies You Don't Know About Pinterest image, with a collage of up-and-coming designers
  • Why Slow Sewing = Sewing Better

    Why Slow Sewing = Sewing Better

    The virtues of slow sewing can definitely be a challenge if you’re used to whipping up projects FAST. 

    This is especially true if you’ve been sewing for a while. It’s very easy to get into a rhythm, working on projects back to back. After a while projects bleed together. Is there an opportunity for slow sewing that you’re not considering?

    Bianca cutting out pattern pieces at her workspace, using pattern weights and shears.

    But it made me think: if we’re churning out projects too quickly, are we enjoying the benefits of slow sewing?

    These are the tips I recommend to slow things down a little bit if you’re finding that the churn isn’t for you. 

    Machine sewing, Vintage sewing techniques and walkthrough | Vintage on Tap

    Ask yourself, why do you feel the need to rush the project?

    Seems straight forward, but it can be super easy for us to burn ourselves out without realizing it. 

    Burning ourselves out from sewing is not what we want.

    A few years ago when I started my YouTube channel, I was sewing up a storm every.single.day. It was to the point where I would finish work, and then get to the sewing machine right away.

    What I found was that my projects were not bringing me any joy. I was working on them so quickly. They all started to blur together. 

    None of them were special anymore. And then I would donate them to the thrift store without batting an eye.

    Once you have your Why to the question, you can start to put comfortable Slow Sewing parameters to the project.

    Maybe you don’t give the project a deadline. Maybe you take some time to do a more complicated finish on it, just to experiment.

    This way you can actually take your time and enjoy the whole process and enjoy what you make… even the parts that are kind of annoying because you had more time to actually work them.

    Learn how to sew with tutorials by Vintage on Tap, which walk you through the entire sewing process! | Vintage on Tap

    Ask yourself, are you cutting corners just to get the project out the door?

    This one is a tricky one, because in an effort to go fast, it’s easy to look for shortcuts. And by skipping steps, mistakes can easily be made. 

    Don’t get me wrong, not all shortcuts are bad. But it’s a slippery slope to defaulting to shortcuts always. Especially with no return to proper technique just for the sake of going fast. 

    This one is near and dear to me because I tend to go the slow route always… sometimes to my detriment. 

    But, I have a super simple example to highlight: Stay stitching. 

    Stay stitch neckline on Gertie Keyhole Blouse | Vintage on Tap

    Super simple, straight forward, not that big of a deal. But people skip it. Because they want to cut corners. And the neckline gets stretched out, the seams don’t line up, and in every single picture, the weird puckering is obvious. It was a simple mistake. A simple corner that got cut.  

    This tip is a reminder to ask ourselves why we’re sewing. 

    For so many of us, it’s NOT just to make something that’s “good enough”, but something that makes us feel like a million bucks. 

    Obviously, there’s a middle ground between shortcuts and doing everything by the book. Taking some time to consider WHY is extremely important. 

    If we’re cutting corners to go fast, why? What impact does it have on our actual enjoyment of what we’re making? Aren’t we all here to sew?

    Simplicity 8252, completed vintage and pinup dress| @vintageontap

    Ask yourself, is this a project you really want to stress about?

    Stress itself can play some mind tricks and if we’re going too fast, it can compound exponentially. 

    There’s a bunch of different reasons why we might stress over a project. The time component can make that problem even worse.

    A good example for me was a dress I made a few years ago for the channel, where I was cutting corners, stressing over a video deadline, and starting to actually resent the dress.

    In rushing and stressing and I accidentally cut into the bodice of the chiffon redingote of the dress. In a very obvious place. 

    Accidental cut into bodice of chiffon redingote due to not following slow sewing principles. Interfacing as an attempt to fix.

    I was furious with myself, the dress, and the whole situation. And it sucked.

    Even though the dress turned out ok, it wasn’t until that happened that I took a step back, took a deep breath, and realized that I was supposed to be enjoying the process.

    And I wasn’t enjoying the process. I wasn’t focused on slow sewing for enjoyment, only presentation for video. 

    How often are we stressing over something we’re making and make a careless mistake? 

    If you’re finding yourself doing this, it’s a good opportunity to take a break, get a glass of water, maybe walk around the block, get a snack, and reassess the project. 

    At the end of the day, none of us wants to resent our sewing by rushing it. Slow down, slow sew and savor the process.

  • Beautiful Clothes with NO Sewing Adjustments – Is it Possible?

    Beautiful Clothes with NO Sewing Adjustments – Is it Possible?

    Is it possible to make an amazing garment with no sewing adjustments? 

    Bianca from Vintage on Tap, standing in front of a green plant wall

    A garment that fits straight out of the envelope, with no sewing adjustments, with no problems, and fits you like a glove is a dream come true, even for me! 

    So I wanted to give it a shot.

    I wanted to find out if I could make a dress straight from the envelope and have it fit decently well.

    Bianca making a silly face with tropical fabric and the Gertie Cinch It Dress

    I chose the Charm Patterns Cinch It dress for this experiment, released in Spring 2021. 

    What drew me to this pattern was: 

    • The dress was described as a simple pop-over dress, meaning it should fit decently ok*, as long as I followed the instructions.
    • If it worked out, it had many options for customization, with additional collars, sleeves, and pockets to make several versions.
    • The completed pieces I saw online looked like vintage-inspired dream dresses!

    *: I know pop over dresses are super simple, super generalized, and made to fit at a very basic level. My expectations were medium-to-low. I wanted to get in the general ball park and feel decent in the dress.

    The moral of the story?

    No sewing adjustments is a rarity if you already face regular sewing challenges, or experience the same fit issues over and over. 

    Bianca wearing a completed Charm Patterns Cinch It Dress, a popover dress.
    Vintage on Tap, standing outside on the sidewalk, laughing

    While the concept of the dress is brilliant, I face challenges very common for my body type, which were not easily addressed with most patterns straight from the envelope. This is extremely common for most people.

    For the Charm Patterns Cinch-It, these included:

    • My incredibly petite frame, which impacts my shoulder width. The shoulders of the Cinch-it dress were roughly 1.5” too wide for me, which would make it a challenge for well fitting sleeves, had I made those options.
    • My petite frame’s torso length, which impacts bodice length and waist placement. The shirring line on the dress started over 2 inches too low for me, and extended down over 4 inches– which for a combined 6” of Torso + Waist, put the bottom edge of shirring past the midpoint of my hips.
    • Overall dress length, which is easily remedied, but worth a mention.
    Close up of elastic waist of the Charm Patterns Cinch it Dress

    Is there a pattern out there you can make with no sewing adjustments?

    Yes and no! 

    Depending on the adjustments you may tend to do, there are pattern companies which may fit your body shape more closely due to the nature of their pattern drafting block.

    Bianca reading a book about Frida Kahlo outside

    For example, Seamwork Patterns tend to fit me decently well, due to a larger block cup size and shorter torso length. While alterations are still common, their drafting is naturally closer to my body shape. You can see this well in my Penny Dress, which fit like a glove.

    Video tutorial for retro sewing, the Colette Penny dress | Vintage on Tap

    For the most part, though, it’s rare to make a pattern straight from the envelope with no sewing adjustments. 

    This is perfectly normal!

    Remember that pattern companies draft to their audience’s average. Even the patterns marketed as “easy to sew” may need some slight adjustments for a better fit. 

    Looking to dip your toe into pattern adjustments, or do you also have a petite frame like me and a larger bust? My fitting videos might provide some insights on how to approach fitting challenges!

    Click the video below to start my Fitting Videos playlist!

    Is there a pattern you’ve sewn that fit straight from the package with no sewing adjustments?

    Please let me know in the comments!


    Is it Possible to Sew with No pattern adjustments? Bianca posing in front of a vine wall, wearing a handmade dress

    Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. I never recommend products I wouldn’t personally use. All opinions are my own.

  • Invest in These Sewing Tools for Better Projects

    Invest in These Sewing Tools for Better Projects

    There is so much to spend your money on when starting out sewing that it’s easy to fall down the rabbit hole of buying everything. Or… buying a lot of cheap stuff. Do you know what sewing tools to invest in?

    Do you know what sewing tools you bought on a budget… but deserve an UPGRADE?

    This post is written for people interested in upgrading their sewing tools, breaking down which ones should be upgraded first!

    BIG DISCLAIMER! You can get very VERY far using budget tools. But if you have the opportunity to invest in sewing tools in this list, they make a difference. 

    Sewing Tools to Invest In -- you don't have to spend a lot to start sewing, but where should you invest your money?

    You don’t have to spend money on All The Things when it comes to sewing supplies.

    Investing in the right tools can support you in creating a garment that’s sturdy and well constructed. Time and time again.

    Invest in this Sewing Tool: Your Sewing Machine

    Question tile asking, What's the. most pricey (dollar sign) sewing tool you own?

    When I asked Vintagettes what was the sewing tool they invested in, over 95% of them said their Sewing Machine! It goes to show that this one is a biggie- you can’t get around it.

    Prices range from extremely cheap ($25 machine) to extremely expensive ($3,000+!) It’s easy to get lost on this tool alone. 

    Keep in mind that for budget sewing machines:

    • They tend to be mostly plastic, which weigh too little. This means they tend to bounce around more often, which affects their timing and internal alignments
    • Cheap machines also tend to have limited settings (or worse) too many novelty settings. These tend to be rarely used for garment sewing, taking away from having more SOLID basic stitches
    • Cheap machines also tend to lack attachments or tools which you might need. Or they’re made of cheap materials which will fall apart easily.

    What makes a sewing machine more valuable?

    • Pricier machines tend to be heavier, which don’t bounce on your table (think of them like a tank)
    • They have more robust basic stitches. The straight stitch, zig zag, etc tend to have less issues over time, maintaining proper length, etc., and not skipping
    • Attachments are almost always included and don’t generally have to be replaced since they’re a lot more built for time

    If you’re looking to upgrade from an entry level or cheaper machine and don’t want to break the bank…

    • Consider the budget (obviously)
    • Think about what you actually use, day to day. For example, I tend to ONLY use a straight stitch, zig zag, and back stitch.
    • Think of what’s a nice to have versus a MUST
      • Must have a buttonhole foot
      • The machine must have all the attachments so I don’t have to buy them one at a time
      • Be easy to fix with a local repair person (or not)

    Invest in this Sewing Tool: Steam Iron

    Bianca holding a steam iron, discussing why it's a sewing tool to invest in.

    If you watched my Top Beginner Sewing Mistakes video, you’ve heard me say, “you should spend as much time worrying about your iron as you do with your sewing machine.

    While it seems like a basic tool, an iron has a lot of power in how you manipulate the fabric and fibers themselves. These details are ones that get skipped over by beginners. But in reality, they play one of the bigger factors in making something look professional and neat.

    Click HERE to learn more about Top Sewing Problems (and how to work through them)!

    What makes an iron more valuable?

    • Consistent control over temperature
    • Consistent control over steam output
    • They tend to weigh more and require less downward pressure to fuse interfacing

    If you’re using an entry level iron and don’t want to break the bank, I would recommend considering…

    • The size of the water tank needed on the iron?
    • What granularity do you want in temperature control?
    • How much steam control is needed?
    • Retractable cable or wireless?
    • Is it just for sewing or for regular clothing as well?

    Invest in this Sewing Tool: Cutting Implements

    Collection of cutting implements, discussing why they're an important sewing tool to invest in. Snips to pinking shears are displayed.

    This one is a tricky one, because everyone’s tolerance for a “nice version” of this can vary widely.

    Some people like tools with better handles, some people like having decorative ones. Some like heavy scissors and cutting tools, some like lighter ones due for ease of use, especially for joint pain.

    I have a wide range of cutting implements and each has a different purpose, collected over the years. None of these serve double purpose– they’re all very specific about what I need them to do.

    At the end of the day, I’m looking for quality, sharp tools. Tools which hold their edge the longest and which can be sharpened.

    Why? The main reason is around SAFETY. Also, cheap tools can damage fabric.

    If you’re looking for new cutting tools, think about these things:

    • Is this going to be comfortable to hold for potentially HOURS of time?
    • What do I need this to actually cut through?
    • What are my sharpening options? 

    Learning How to Invest in Sewing Tools takes time, but this list should get you up and running!

    Bianca with her sewing machine, discussing why it as an investment.

    Every tool is not only an investment, but it’s something you should be able to rely on again and again over the years.

    You don’t have to break the bank. A lot of the items on this list can be bought at a discount, with coupons, or on heavy markdown. Keep an eye out on your local stores and be sure to save up for the equipment you would really want use.


    Invest in these Sewing Tools to elevate your sewing! It's easy to get bogged down with cheap sewing tools, but the tools you invest in make a difference.
  • Spring Fabric You’ll be Excited to Sew With!

    Spring Fabric You’ll be Excited to Sew With!

    The last of the winter frost is starting to melt away. And you realize you’ve been living in a flannel, oversize sweater for months on end. Like a groundhog, you rub your eyes, peer outside, and wonder what day it is. And will it stop being cold… please. 

    Before you know it suddenly tulips are popping up everywhere, the sunshine feels warm on your face, and Spring is fully upon you: ITS EXCITING

    As someone who sews, the next question is… what’s your wardrobe looking like for the changing weather?

    What dresses and blouses are you going to make with pretty spring fabrics, now that you can wear something more free and fluttery?

    Bianca Santori from the pinup and retro sewing blog, Vintage on Tap

    If you’re browsing online right now, there are so many options to choose from for your spring fabrics, that it can be a bottomless rabbit hole. 

    This post focuses on breaking down a few of the most commonly used spring fabrics. You’ll know what to work with in your sewing, whether it’s vintage or more modern pieces you want for your wardrobe. 

    As I wrote this post, I looked for spring fabrics which had the following qualities:

    • These fabrics are frequently recommended in spring sewing patterns.
    • With layering, these spring fabrics can be used as transitional pieces.
    • They have a consistent quality, from fabric store to fabric store (which is super important if you’re shopping online during lockdown!)

    Spring Fabrics You Should Sew With

    Fabric #1: Batiste

    It’s light… it’s airy… it screams spring!

    The quality of the fabric is instantly perfect for warm days and a cardigan on top. It’s lightweight, transparent, and with it being a plain weave, is easy to sew with!

    A beautiful spring fabric to work with is Batiste, which feels cool and smooth against the skin.

    You’ll usually find this fabric used in garments such as blouses, camisoles, and simple cover ups. To ensure the garment is opaque, double it up!

    Fabric #2: Chambray

    Chambray fabric is a lovely spring version of a heartier shirting fabric, being tightly woven and soft.

    This cotton fabric is fantastic because it can be dressed up or down, depending on the application! 

    Chambray tends to be more in the blue/indigo color range, with its warp and weft yarns being dyed in different colors (one yarn blue, one white) Sometimes it’s seen in reds or (more rarely) other specialty colors. 

    A great spring fabric to work with is Chambray, specifically because it's lightweight but also works with structured garments.

    You’ll usually find this fabric used with shirt dresses, button up tops for all genders, and sometimes as shorts and lounge pants. With interlining or backing material, I’ve also spotted it in cool, cozy jackets!

    Fabric #3: Cotton Poplin

    Cotton Poplin is one of my absolute favorite fabrics! It has a crisp hand that is perfectly perky as a spring fabric. 

    Poplin is fantastic as a spring fabric because of its medium weight and structured hand. Also due to its tight plain weave and finish, it tends to have a little bit of a sheen on it, which feels super soft.

    Fun and mid-weight spring fabric, cotton poplin! Super beautiful prints are available in this type of sewing fabric.

    You find this fabric used over a bunch of different applications, including dresses with structure, tops which tend to be more fitted, and shorts and slacks which are more snappy, but still casual.

    Using Spring Fabrics is a LOT of fun!

    The three fabrics I outlined are barely the tip of the iceberg in terms of what’s available in online stores. Spring fabrics are plentiful, but using the woven fabrics I’ve listed will provide tons of options for potential garments. 

    If you’re looking to start gathering ideas from the fabrics I’ve listed, or are looking to try other spring-specific fabrics, I highly recommend creating a swatch book with them!

    Fabric Swatch Book, Free Download | Vintage on Tap

    What’s your favorite spring fabric? Is there one you keep going back to again and again?

    Spring fabrics are beautiful! Learn which fabrics to use to sew a beautiful spring wardrobe.

  • The Top 5 Sewing Beginner Problems

    The Top 5 Sewing Beginner Problems

    What was the first mistake you made when you first started sewing? Let's talk about it.

    You’re a sewing beginner, excited to make your first dress (or top, or skirt!) You have the most gorgeous fabric painstakingly picked out. You have a brand new sewing machine. A vision of what you want it to look like… and you’re ready to go.

    But after that first snip into the fabric… it’s a disaster.

    The garment fits like a giant sack, the stitch lines are wobbly and crooked. As you try and take it apart to start again, an accidental cut into the fabric! The whole thing ends up in the trash. 

    Sound familiar? 

    As sewing beginners, we have ALL been there.

    For me, it was a 1930s-style dress I was making for Halloween when I was a young teenager. Dark green, black fringe, and when I took the scissors to it, it went downhill.

    The dress was atrocious and a waste of money. I’d cut into the center front seam, the fabric was bedsheet quality, and the seams puckered and didn’t lay flat. Not knowing what I was doing, my Beginner energy was crushed. 

    I knew I wasn’t the only one who had gone through these learning woes as a sewing beginner. So I posed the question to my fellow Vintagettes on Instagram, to learn more about their early sewing days. 

    I wanted to know…

    • What were the range of problems people experienced?
    • What was their approach to sewing?
    • Where did their Beginner Enthusiasm run into problems?

    From those conversations, I distilled the following list, to support your sewing journey.

    THE TOP 5 PROBLEMS YOU’LL FACE AS A SEWING BEGINNER

    Expecting perfection from your sewing problems is expected, but not always helpful. Even life's little adventures (like a cat jumping onto your workspace) can impact your sewing projects as a sewing beginner.

    Problem #5: Expecting perfection… from the jump!

    Sewing is a practice in which skills build on each other. It’s difficult to make successful garments which don’t acknowledge that learning one or two things just isn’t enough.

    Sewing skills compound.

    Expect and account for your first several pieces to be straight garbage as you learn. And that’s ok. 

    Each piece is a learning experience, and even after 20+ years sewing, no garment is perfect. Even with hundreds of skills under my belt.

    The stress and heartache from early-stage learning can be enough to turn a lot of people off from sewing. I recommend not planning for the first few garments being worn to a party or to a special event.

    It’s important to get your feet wet in a way that makes the learning experience fun. Putting undue pressure on yourself to make a PERFECT _(insert garment)_ here is not going to do that for you.

    Expect imperfection and lean into it!

    Not coming through the instructions in a sewing pattern or your sewing machine manual can cause problems as you're learning how to sew.

    Problem #4: Not combing through and analyzing the pattern directions or learning your sewing machine.

    Sounds straightforward… but something easily overlooked and dismissed!

    Take time to look through every diagram in the sewing pattern . Do Google searches for phrases you don’t know.

    Similarly, spend time learning your sewing machine. Each machine has its own quirks. This includes how its threaded, how the bobbin is loaded, and where buttons live (or don’t live!) on the machine.

    Doing this simple review will save you a lot of frustration as a beginner. 

    Spending time up front is important. Do Google searches for specific techniques mentioned in the instructions. Read the sewing machine manual. All this decreases the amount of simple errors you can run into as a sewing beginner.

    Learn how to sew with Vintage on Tap Youtube videos! Full tutorial walkthroughs to make a wardrobe at home! | Vintage on Tap

    Problem #3: Underestimating the Power of the Iron

    Shouting this one from the rooftops:

    An iron in the sewing world is NOT OPTIONAL

    Most of us live comfortably in knitwear or wrinkle-proof clothes, the Power of the Iron is REAL.

    With heat, pressure, and steam, irons are an invaluable tool to manipulate individual fibers in fabric. They coax fabric to mold around a curve, lay flat, and encourage thread to meld into fabric.

    It’s easy to be distracted by the sewing machine, with all its stitches, bells and whistles… and completely ignore the iron. 

    Prioritize your iron!

    Pressing seams open and using steam and a tailor’s ham go a long way towards elevating your sewing. Lining things up as you sew them, encouraging seams to lay flat against the form makes your garment look professional. 

    Learn about how to pick fabric for clothes in this video tutorial, walking you through the steps. | Vintage on Tap, Pinup Sewing Blog

    Problem #2: Not Understanding Fabrics  and Choosing the Wrong Fabric for the Job

    Knowing and understanding fabrics is absolutely critical, but also one of the more challenging skills to learn with sewing. For a lot of people, this skill comes with time and experience.

    It’s one of the biggest reasons I’m such a proponent of starting your own fabric swatch book as a beginner. Understanding the different fabrics on the market and how they compare to application, especially in relation to ready-to-wear is vital.

    Looking at as much fabric as possible, feeling it and observing how its used out in the real world. It makes it easier and easier to see what fabrics are more appropriate for what purpose. 

    A pretty floral print might look gorgeous, but is it printed on fabric good enough for what you want to make?

    Fabric Swatch Book, Free Download | Vintage on Tap

    I’ve created a free swatch book template to start building your fabric swatch collection. A swatch book is an important part of the learning process. 

    Print out a few pages with simple information, noting fabric information. This practice develops a solid understanding of how to pick out material.

    By doing this, your skills as a sewing beginner will be more fine tuned towards making more beautiful garments!

    Fabric Swatch Book, Tutorial | Vintage on Tap

    Problem #1: Ready to Wear Sizing =/= Sewing Sizing

    The sad fact is, Ready to Wear clothing sizes are completely different than Sewing Pattern Sizes! A Size 8 from your favorite dress brand will be completely different from Size 8 in a sewing pattern.

    Why is that? Each brand uses their own “block” or average measurements for their audience, which influences the fit for their brand. This also extends into sewing pattern companies, who also develop their own sizing matrix.

    Also, sewing patterns tend to have more ease (or extra “space”) in their measurements, usually based on the design itself.

    The main lesson is that your real-life measurements (when you wrap a measuring tape around your waist, etc.) should be the basis of what size you pick from the sewing pattern envelope. Not what you buy off the rack in a store.

    Using your own measurements as the source of truth– not the number on your clothing label– will lead you to picking sizes which work better for you.

    Video tutorial for how to understand a full bust adjustment! | Vintage on Tap, Retro and Sewing Youtube Channel

    You *will* run into problems as a sewing beginner and that’s totally normal and ok! 

    “[Babies] ability to be bad [at walking] and have everyone be ok with it is how they get good.”

    Tom Vanderbilt, Beginners: The Joy and Transformative Power of Lifelong Learning

    A positive, self-accepting Beginner Mentality (like babies learning how to walk) will do wonders in accepting the ups and downs of sewing.

    Being OK with being bad at sewing and trusting that the more you sew the better you get will lift undue pressure from the process.

    Leave me a comment down below, letting me know how long did it take for you to feel like you were a confident beginner sewing?

    What “clicked” for you to feel more comfortable in the learning process? When did you no longer feel like a Sewing Beginner?

    The Top 5 Problems you'll encounter as a sewing beginner and how to overcome them.

  • Organizing your Sewing Patterns, How to Video

    Organizing your Sewing Patterns, How to Video

    Organizing your sewing patterns, digitally and storing correctly | @vintageontap

    Organizing your Sewing Patterns, tutorial | @vintageontap

    Have you spent time organizing your sewing patterns?

    For someone who sews as much as I do, it was high time that I got myself in order. After spending countless dollars on pattern sales, my storage situation was an absolute wreck: patterns were being shoved into pull drawers and being damaged constantly. If I needed to find a specific pattern, it was time consuming with no discernible organization. I knew it had to stop.

    Materials I talked about in my video:

    My video goes into a step-by-step breakdown of where my collection was being stored, to how I built their new boxes, and how I created dividers to make everything easier to find. The whole process, start to finish, took me an entire day due to the size of my collection, but the transformation to my sewing area and to my workflow has been improved dramatically.

    Organizing your sewing patterns digitally can change EVERYTHING. 

    The beauty of living in the digital age, is that now you can also organize and keep track of your entire collection in the snap of a photo. There are definitely a lot of tools out there that can make this easier, and in my video I go into using Google Photos to make it work.

    Organizing your Sewing Patterns digitally, tutorial | @vintageontap

    Organizing your Sewing Patterns digitally, tutorial | @vintageontap

     

    Organizing your Sewing Patterns digitally, Google Photos | @vintageontap

    Taking the time to set up Google Photos has all ready made a world of difference, especially if you have a huge stockpile of paper and PDF printed patterns. Being able to find them at a glance to check yardage and notions shaves a lot of time. Add to that, the ability to quickly check if you all ready own a pattern at home when you’re out hitting some sales. If the inspiration strikes, I can pull up a pattern and be inspired immediately and in seconds, be on my way to picking out some new fabric.

    This video was a lot of fun to shoot because it was so practical! There’s still quite a lot of organization I have to do when it comes to my growing sewing stash, but I’ll be taking you on that journey moving forward.

    Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links :)


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