• Email
  • Instagram
  • Pinterest
  • Twitter
  • YouTube
  • Skip to primary navigation
  • Skip to main content
  • Skip to primary sidebar
  • Skip to footer
  • START HERE
  • Tops
    • Butterick
    • Simplicity
    • Seamwork Magazine
    • Patterns by Gertie
    • View All
  • Dresses
    • Butterick
    • McCall’s
    • Vintage Vogue
    • Simplicity
    • Colette Patterns
    • Patterns by Gertie
    • View All
  • Skirts
    • Tribe Patterns
    • Self Drafted
    • View All
  • Outerwear
    • Butterick
    • Seamwork Magazine
    • Papercut
    • View All
  • Lingerie
    • Seamwork Magazine
    • Vintage Pattern Selector
    • View All
  • Accessories
    • McCall’s
    • Self Drafted
    • View All
  • Bust Adjustments
    • Darts
    • Gathers
    • Princess Seams
    • View All
  • Techniques & Tips
    • Pattern Drafting
    • Machine Techniques
    • Hand Sewing
    • Other Tips
    • Resource Lists
    • Tools
    • View All

Vintage on Tap

  • START HERE
  • Tops
    • Butterick
    • Simplicity
    • Seamwork Magazine
    • Patterns by Gertie
    • View All
  • Dresses
    • Butterick
    • McCall’s
    • Vintage Vogue
    • Simplicity
    • Colette Patterns
    • Patterns by Gertie
    • View All
  • Skirts
    • Tribe Patterns
    • Self Drafted
    • View All
  • Outerwear
    • Butterick
    • Seamwork Magazine
    • Papercut
    • View All
  • Lingerie
    • Seamwork Magazine
    • Vintage Pattern Selector
    • View All
  • Accessories
    • McCall’s
    • Self Drafted
    • View All
  • Bust Adjustments
    • Darts
    • Gathers
    • Princess Seams
    • View All
  • Techniques & Tips
    • Pattern Drafting
    • Machine Techniques
    • Hand Sewing
    • Other Tips
    • Resource Lists
    • Tools
    • View All
    • Email
    • Instagram
    • Pinterest
    • Twitter
    • YouTube

How to Sew the Colette Penny, Sewing Tips!

October 13, 2017 By Bianca 3 Comments

Gorgeous retro fashion dress, pattern by Colette Patterns | Vintage on Tap

Video tutorial for retro sewing, the Colette Penny dress | Vintage on Tap

The Colette Penny is a flattering, retro inspired dress.

A-line skirt, half cummerbund, and button-up, fitted bodice, the piece comes together in an easy-going sewing day. I can confidently say it’s one of those Rewarding YES Pieces, that is straightforward and simple to sew if you’re a confident beginner or intermediate seamstress.

 

1950s retro fashion, the Colette Penny dress in light blue linen, video tutorial blog post | Vintage on Tap

If you’re like me (5’2″ large bust, petite frame)- my fitting tips are straight forward.

I did the following changes for my Colette Penny:

  • Standard FBA (always and forever!)
  • Changed waist dart shape (curved dart for more flattering fit)
  • Swayback adjustment

Unlike my normal fittings, I did not shorten the bodice length. The bodice length was perfect- which hardly never happens for me so you can imagine my surprise!

 

Check out my Fitting Tutorial Playlist on YouTube to see how I fit my pieces!

 

Unfortunately, I did not film a fitting tutorial video for this project 😩

However, other relevant pattern drafting notes are below, if you’re fitting the Colette Penny.

Be mindful of the width of the bodice front and the bodice back.

This is important because any width changes on the bodice must be transferred over to the skirt pieces, as well as the cummerbund (view B.) For example, if your bodice front is 2in wider after your FBA, adjust your skirt front pieces to accommodate the difference.

 

Front view of the Colette Penny dress, a 1950s vintage inspired sewing project | Vintage on Tap

Retro inspired 1950s sewing, sewing the Colette Penny dress in blue linen | Vintage on Tap

 

Be mindful of the armhole facings

If your bodice front has changed due to an FBA or SBA, redraft your armhole facing (See my tutorial video here: How to Redraft a Facing)

Please note: the Penny’s yoke extends to the bodice front, meaning that the BACK armhole facing ends at a notch on the yoke. Your new FRONT armhole facing must extend to the yoke notch, past the bodice front pattern piece. Tape the yoke to the bodice front piece, and redraft your facing with the two pieces taped together.

 

The Colette Penny dress, sewing tutorial | Vintage on Tap

 

For my particular Colette Penny, I’m coming to terms with my full bust being at an odd part of my body.

My full bust is pretty close to my waistline, meaning that the normal 2in end point for darts doesn’t quite “fit” me. I’m still playing with where a dart point should end on MY body– which is looking to be closer and closer to my full bust than anticipated. I’ll keep playing with it, though!

 

Video sewing tutorial, sewing the Colette Patterns Penny dress | Vintage on Tap

 

Additional Colette Penny Points of Interest

 

The Cummerbund

The half cummerbund is one of my favorite parts of View B, covered at the 6:16 timestamp. After sewing a cummerbund for 1950s Vintage Vogue 8789, I’ve been in love with how flattering and cute they are, so having the retro fashion detail was nice.

 

Cummerbund close up for the Colette Penny dress | Vintage on Tap

 

Instead of using snaps, as the instructions suggested, I used hooks. Because the cummerbund overlaps on itself, the hooks ensure that the cummerbund doesn’t pull out of place and makes it more secure.

 

How to sew the Colette Penny dress in light blue linen | Vintage on Tap

Collar close up, the Colette Penny dress | Vintage on Tap

 

The Collar

Full collar, with collar stand? Absolutely! If you’ve never made a collar before, please start watching the tutorial video at timestamp 8:24.

The steps are outlined relatively well in the instruction manual, but my additional collar notes are below:

  • Sew slowly– the area has to be as precise as you can make it (within reason!), especially since it’s so visible.
  • Pay attention to your sewing machine– if your machine is struggling, you may need to change needles or use the hand crank to guide the sewing needle in. There will be points where you’re sewing through 7 layer of fabric+interfacing!
  • Trim trim trim. Clip seam allowances and trim or grade your seams. Less bulk at the neck is what you’re aiming for.

 

Sewing vintage, 1950s inspired Colette Patterns Penny dress | Vintage on Tap

Sewing tips for the 1950s inspired Colette Penny shirtdress, with video tutorial | Vintage on Tap

Completed Colette Penny, video tutorial | Vintage on Tap

I’m extremely pleased with how this vintage-style Colette Penny shirtdress turned out!

The linen I used was sourced at Britex Fabrics and is this really yummy sky blue with a really thick hand. While the fabric stitched like butter, it definitely has a hefty weight, which makes it a stiff wear. Do I mind it? Not at all- I can feel that it will keep its shape over time.

The cut of the skirt is really feeds into 1940s styles, which is flattering, though I would note that the pocket placement should vary from person to person. For me, the pockets sat too low, with them poking out around my hips. An inch or two higher would have maybe worked better.

Also, reducing the size of the cummerbund height-wise might be a good idea if you’re lacking a torso like I am. Otherwise, its all breasts!

 

Pin this Post!!

Tips for sewing the Colette Patterns Penny Shirtdress! Full tutorial with video, walking you through the process. | Vintage on Tap

 

Want MORE sewing tips and advice?

Get my sewing tips, advice, tutorials, and encouragement right in your inbox!

Success! Now check your email to confirm your subscription.

There was an error submitting your subscription. Please try again.

Powered by ConvertKit

Thank you, Colette Patterns, for making this post possible!
 

 
All the Places, All the Stuff!
Never miss a post by following me on Bloglovin’!
Or go mobile- I’m on Instagram and YouTube!
Subscribe to Vintage on Tap on YouTube!

Filed Under: Colette Patterns, Dresses Tagged With: Britex Fabric, Colette Patterns, linen

You might also love

  • Learn how to make this wrap crop top! Sewing video tutorial | Vintage on TapHow to Sew a Wrap Top (tutorial): The Seamwork Kristin!
  • How to sew Vintage 1955 McCalls 7625 | Vintage on TapSewing Vintage McCall’s 7625, Video Walkthrough!
  • No Dart Full Bust Adjustment Tutorial | Vintage on TapNo Dart Full Bust Adjustment Video Tutorial
  • Tiki Dress, Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing, in progress bodice | @vintageontapVideo: The Gertie Tiki Dress
How (and why!) to use Tailor’s Tacks, Video! »
« The Vintage Vogue V9280 Sewing Series!

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Tracy says

    November 6, 2020 at 8:14 pm

    Bianca, you lovely, I’m so thankful I happened upon your wonderful gold mine of tips here for Penny. I was even more thankful when I read that you are a well-endowed 5’2″ swayback. LOL. I am that, exactly. So this will be particularly helpful to me as I work through. I’m pretty green at sewing for myself and I have this plethora of issues. Thank you so much for your time spent doing all of this for us; I’ll be bookmarking you and visiting often!

    Reply
  2. Taylor Pruitt says

    October 25, 2017 at 4:44 pm

    You look amazing! I love the way you sewed it up and showed us through the entire process <3.

    Reply
    • Bianca says

      October 27, 2017 at 3:53 pm

      Thanks so much, Taylor! It was such a fun project to work on 🙌🏽

      Reply

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

Primary Sidebar

My name is Bianca, I'm 34 years old, and a California girl through and through 🏖

I inspire people to sew, to feel comfortable and confident in their bodies, and am an avid lover of tiki culture and Vintage Style Not Vintage Values!

Discover More Vintage Sewing

Tips for Sewing a Cocktail Dress, Butterick B5814! | Vintage on Tap
Tips for Sewing a Cocktail Dress, with video!
Miss Dixie O'Dare Sew Along, Australian Home Journal 7449 | @vintageontap
Completed: The Dixie O’Dare Australian Home Journal Sew Along
How to Sew a Pinup Holiday Dress! Video Tutorial and sewing tips | Vintage on Tap
How to Sew a Pinup Holiday Dress, Video Tutorial

Tiki Dress, Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing, pin up style | @vintageontap
Completed: The Tiki Dress
Patterns by Gertie, Butterick 6453, Jenny Dress sew along | Vintage on Tap
Patterns by Gertie Butterick 6453, Video Tutorial!
How to Sew Vintage 1940s Navy Dress, Butterick B6282 | Vintage on Tap
Vintage B6282: How to Sew a 1940s Navy Dress!

ARCHIVES

CATEGORIES

POPULAR POSTS

This is the Colette Rue dress made with supplies purchased at Mood Fabrics | @vintageontap

The Colette Rue Dress

Rago Shapewear Girdle, Pinup Weightloss as a Seamstress | @vintageontap

Weightloss as a Seamstress, Revisted

Organizing your sewing patterns, digitally and storing correctly | @vintageontap

Organizing your Sewing Patterns, How to Video

How to Sew a Kickpleat, Completed Kickpleat| @vintageontap

How to Sew a Kickpleat

Footer

When was the last time you sewed something which f When was the last time you sewed something which fit PERFECT straight out of the pattern envelope?⁠⁠
⁠⁠
Without a doubt, it’s an *extremely* attractive proposition to be able to pick a pattern off the shelf and just get to stitching ✂️⁠⁠
⁠⁠
Being able to pull a pretty dress off the sewing machine, throw it on, and feel like a million bucks…!! Wow- would be a dream come true.⁠⁠
⁠⁠
So I did an experiment, took the leap, and the results were interesting 😅 Swipe to see the photos 👉🏻⁠⁠
⁠⁠
Would I recommend going through this process? 😅⁠⁠
⁠⁠
Check out my latest video over on YouTube (link in bio) to see everything I went through to get this dress done, from the dream of a *decent fitting* dress to completed piece 👗⁠⁠
⁠⁠
#sewingroom #sewingpattern #moodfabrics #thankyoumood #sewinglover #stitchwitch #sewVoT #charmpatterns #cinchitdress #patternsbygertie
Breaking down one of the Sewing 101 topics that pl Breaking down one of the Sewing 101 topics that plagues beginners: deciphering the sewing pattern envelope! ⁠
⁠
I deep dive on all the deets, walking through what’s been working for me for over 20 years 😜⁠
⁠
Go watch the new video!⁠
⁠
⁠
#sewingblogger #millennialsewing #sewcialists #stitchwitch #SewVoT
A little Throwback Thursday to that one time, that A little Throwback Thursday to that one time, that I got a chance to leave the city for a few days 😅⁠
⁠
And I PROMISE I wear more than jeans and simple sewn tops! But, let's be real, it's my lockdown uniform. I'm just happy I'm wearing jeans at all, y'all. ⁠
⁠
The Top is the Portrait Blouse (link to the pattern in my Link in Bio) with #gifted fabric from @myfabricdesigns I got several years back 🥰⁠
⁠
#sewingblogger #millennialsewing #sewcialists #stitchwitch #sewinglovers #SewVoT
Do you know what sewing tools you should REALLY be Do you know what sewing tools you should REALLY be investing in? 💸⁠⁠
⁠⁠
It's super easy to fall into the trap of buying adorable fabric, cheap machine attachments, and a bunch of plastic thing-a-ma-bobs which fall apart within a few uses 😖⁠⁠
⁠⁠
But what REALLY is worth spending your hard earned money on?⁠⁠
⁠⁠
In this week's new video, I'll go into the things I recommend you should save up for (and *hint hint* all of you here on Instagram helped inspire this video!)⁠⁠
⁠⁠
Link in my bio to watch 👉🏻 Because seriously. It's sooo easy to spend a lot of money when it comes to sewing, but some things are VITAL to making beautiful clothes ✨⁠⁠
⁠⁠
⁠⁠
#sewingblogger #millennialsewing #sewcialists #stitchwitch #sewingismytherapy #sewinglovers #SewVoT
To say that Frida is an inspiration would be an un To say that Frida is an inspiration would be an understatement 😌 ⁠⁠
⁠⁠
For me, it’s not the paintings she made... but rather the garments she wore and the history and meaning woven into them.⁠⁠
⁠⁠
She wore Tehuana-inspired dresses from Oaxaca, both to lean into her Mexican heritage but also to allow space for medical corsets and leg braces, disguising her daily pain  over 30 operations⁠ and injury.⁠⁠
⁠⁠
If you’re in San Francisco and love sewing, please check out the show at the De Young which runs through May 2nd. ⁠⁠
The dresses are stunning and beautiful to look at, and it’s amazing to see Frida’s stamp on traditional Mexican garb 👗⁠⁠
⁠⁠
I’ve linked a short article about her and her clothing in my bio from the New York Times, if you’re interested in learning a little bit more. ⁠⁠
⁠⁠
The show in San Francisco replicates the 2018 show of her garments at the V&A Museum, and I count myself lucky to have seen these in person 🙏🏻⁠⁠
⁠⁠
⁠⁠
#sewingblogger #millennialsewing #sewcialists #stitchwitch #sewingismytherapy #sewinglovers #SewVoT
Holy cow, it's been 3 months since I moved from th Holy cow, it's been 3 months since I moved from the Castro 🏳️‍🌈 ⁠
⁠
Not gunna lie, I think about it almost every day. But I think about it for different reasons every time:⁠
⁠
🏳️‍🌈 I miss my neighborhood. When I see photos of it, or hear news of it, I miss the energy there.⁠
🏳️‍🌈 I don't miss the noise and chaos. My new home is quiet and I can sleep through the night without interruption. It's generally safer. ⁠
🏳️‍🌈 I miss seeing the old architecture-- it fed my romantic SF-lovin' soul... but I don't miss how our old building was falling apart. The roofs leaked and the floor was collapsing.⁠
⁠
I'm thankful every day for the time I had there. I'm thankful for the memories (Albondiga lives there for me, in my heart 💖, and wow I miss her every day)⁠
⁠
But I'm also super thankful to be in a comfortable home now. I'm very thankful for the peace of mind. ⁠
⁠
Just wanted to share, reflecting a Throwback Thursday 🌸⁠
⁠
⁠#sanfranciscoblogger #sewingmachine #sewVoT
ITS TIME TO GET HYPED ABOUT SPRING FABRICS 🌸!⁠
⁠
I'm actually super excited to be working with some new fabrics, welcoming in new materials, new drape, new fiber content and all the bells and whistles 🔔⁠
⁠
Searching for the right fabric amongst everything showing up on online fabric stores can be a bottomless pit though- so my latest video breaks down my recommendations for this time of year.⁠
⁠
And you should watch it. Why? I walk you through the fabrics themselves, I show you examples, and I go into their applications and what sorts of garments you can make with them.⁠
⁠
Even experienced people will learn something with the video.⁠
⁠
Link in my bio, so you can check it out.⁠
⁠
What fabrics are *your* spring go tos? If you've watched the video, which one do you want to use for your next make?⁠
⁠
⁠
#sewingblogger #millennialsewing #sewcialists #stitchwitch #sewingismytherapy #sewinglovers #SewVoT
EVERYONE STRUGGLES WHEN THEY'RE LEARNING HOW TO SE EVERYONE STRUGGLES WHEN THEY'RE LEARNING HOW TO SEW! 😖⁠⁠
⁠⁠
It's a rare day indeed when I speak to someone with some level sewing experience who hasn't...⁠⁠
⁠⁠
🧵Had a project go sideways-- even if they've been sewing for years!⁠⁠
🧵Skipped over the instructions, thinking "I know better"-- only to be proven wrong (😉 has happened to me more than once!)⁠⁠
🧵Ignored their iron, or worse, rushed pressing those seams open!⁠⁠
🧵Picked the WRONG fabric for the job and ended up with a potato sack as a garment⁠⁠
🧵Selected a size incorrectly from the pattern instructions, only to find out it was 3 sizes too big....!!!⁠⁠
⁠⁠
All of these mistakes are common, all of them can be overcome with time and patience!⁠⁠
⁠⁠
Want to get past them faster? I break down HOW to work through these extremely common problems in *actionable ways* (YES) ⁠⁠
⁠⁠
Click over to the link in my bio and go through to the video where I talk about these.⁠⁠
⁠⁠
Seriously, another dress thrown into the trash because one of these tips were missed? No one wants that, especially me 😖 We should all be Stitching Our Best Life!⁠⁠
⁠⁠
⁠⁠
#sewingblogger #millennialsewing #sewcialists  #stitchwitch #sewingismytherapy #sewingmachine #sewinglovers #SewVoT
I'm not one to have a lot of UFOs, but sometimes.. I'm not one to have a lot of UFOs, but sometimes... it happens 😅⁠⁠
⁠⁠
This #HarlowPajamas set has been sitting in my In Progress pile since at least October, back when I was still in my old Castro apartment. ⁠⁠
⁠⁠
Last night, I said, "enough!" and went ham to finish this set. And I'm so glad I did!⁠⁠
⁠⁠
Comfy, breathable voile, hand stitched frogs, my own clothing tag to recognize the back of the pair of pants 😝⁠⁠
⁠⁠
I can't wait to wear this outside with a cup of coffee or iced tea when the weather continues to turn to spring 🌸⁠⁠
⁠⁠
What's the oldest UFO in your sewing room? This set was at least 4 months old (my oldest at the time!) ⁠⁠
⁠⁠
#charmpatterns #patternsbygertie #vintageinspiredsewing #gertiesworld #sewingblogger #millennialsewing #sewcialists #stitchwitch #SewVoT
Beginner Sewing Problems sharing time: Me cutting Beginner Sewing Problems sharing time: Me cutting directly down the center front of a dress, not knowing what the Cut on Fold pattern marking meant 😅⁠
⁠
I've lost count of the amount of beginner mistakes I've made when I was learning how to sew. Shitty fabric, not pressing a single seam, and all number of things which looking back on it I'm like... "wtf was that about?!"⁠
⁠
There tends to be the same kinds of mistakes which crop up over and over again for beginners-- and they ALL can be overcome!⁠
⁠
Check out my new video about this, where I break down the TOP 5 based on responses by the Vintagettes here on Instagram. ⁠
⁠
I go into how common those mistakes are, why they happen, and give you some tangible steps for how to work through them.⁠
⁠
Let me know if any of the tips I gave resonated with you and I'll be sharing some of those in future videos!⁠
⁠
⁠
#sewingblogger #millennialsewing #sewcialists #stitchwitch #sewingismytherapy #sewingmachine #sewinglovers #SewVoT

Copyright © 2021 · Vintage on Tap · Blog Design by Little Blue Deer
Privacy Policy