Category: Resource Lists

  • PDF Pattern Companies to Try in 2021

    PDF Pattern Companies to Try in 2021

    Paper or PDF pattern?

    Stack of paper sewing patterns

    It’s easy to have a paper pattern buying addiction. I’m *far* from immune to the 2$ Joann’s pattern sale which has left me with a collection of over 1000 printed sewing patterns. 

    But having so many paper patterns… from the same big companies is kind of a problem.

    These printed patterns take up a lot of space. They also tend to all be designed from the same pattern block. Sometimes, they tend to not be so fresh (design-wise.) And, potentially worse, the designers may be hit or miss as to whether or not they align with your personal values. 

    Enter PDF pattern companies.

    This post features three PDF pattern designers I’m excited about right now and encourage you check out!

    PLEASE NOTE! This is not a sponsored post. I’ve actually not worked with their designs in the past. But I think they’re doing some interesting work and wanted to highlight them in this post.

    Friday Pattern Company

    Their PDF pattern designs are modern but with minimalist sensibilities and some cute details!

    What I particularly love about Friday Pattern Company is that their pdf sewing patterns go up to 7X! The increase in size range makes these designs extremely inclusive, opening the door for more people to dip their toe in and make something that makes them feel like a million bucks. 

    The two patterns below, the Davenport Dress and Sagebrush Top are gorgeous.

    Two models, side by side, modeling garments from the Friday Pattern Company, displaying the range of size inclusivity

    Both designs are feminine, practical, and have a completely different feels if sewn in different fabric. Both are extremely accessible. 

    A few other reasons to be excited about Friday Pattern Company:

    • The Friday Pattern Company size range demonstrates they’ve been committed to the mission for a while.
    • Their patterns are both available in PDF AND paper
    • They donate 5% of their pattern sales to charity and each pattern has a different correlated charity!

    Untitled Thoughts

    Besides being absolutely in love with the company name, the commitment to eco-consciousness is real with Untitled Thoughts! Brittani, who owns the small design studio, goes in depth in the About Me page about how she’s staying committed to caring for the planet.

    This even includes information about the light bulbs which are used in the studio to ensure energy efficiency! 

    The two patterns below, the Amelie and Mathilde dresses are both beautiful, and are really in the spirit of a summer picnic.

    Two dresses side by side, one with an open back and buttons down the back of the skirt, the other as a wrap top, both pdf pattern designs by Untitled Thoughts

    In addition to what I’ve mentioned above, Untitled Thoughts also donates 5-10% to charity. There’s even a yearly transparency report breaking down where the funds were sent! The amount of integrity with Untitled Thoughts is extremely refreshing, and for a PDF pattern company which is a one-person operation, it’s extremely impressive. 

    Bambini del Mare

    The PDF pattern company I’m most excited about right now is Bambini del Mare. Serah, who owns and designs this small brand, is a Bay Area local who attended CCA (California College of the Arts) — just a stone’s throw away from the VoT studio! 

    The two patterns below are my favorite from what has been designed so far:

    Two images of Bambini del Mare PDF patterns, one is a white dress with ruffles on the straps. The other is a bolero that covers the upper torso with fluttery sleeves.

    A couple more reasons I’m excited about Bambini del Mare:

    • The looks are all extremely romantic– they’re all gorgeous and vintage inspired without being frumpy
    • Serah is focused on sustainability and philanthropy and donates 5% of her earnings per quarter to a rotating list of charities.

    PDF pattern companies are doing interesting things.

    Bianca from Vintage on Tap holding up a design from Bambini del Mare on an iPad, talking about PDF pattern companies

    From donating to causes they care about, to going above and beyond with size inclusivity, to even sourcing their sample fabrics to ensure they’re sustainable, it’s extremely impressive. These are examples of what us, as sewing consumers, have an opportunity to support and vote with our dollar on. 

    While working with PDFs can come with their own set of challenges, there’s opportunities to explore new (pattern) points of view and new pattern blocks, all while supporting a small company.

    PDF Sewing Companies You Don't Know About Pinterest image, with a collage of up-and-coming designers
  • Invest in These Sewing Tools for Better Projects

    Invest in These Sewing Tools for Better Projects

    There is so much to spend your money on when starting out sewing that it’s easy to fall down the rabbit hole of buying everything. Or… buying a lot of cheap stuff. Do you know what sewing tools to invest in?

    Do you know what sewing tools you bought on a budget… but deserve an UPGRADE?

    This post is written for people interested in upgrading their sewing tools, breaking down which ones should be upgraded first!

    BIG DISCLAIMER! You can get very VERY far using budget tools. But if you have the opportunity to invest in sewing tools in this list, they make a difference. 

    Sewing Tools to Invest In -- you don't have to spend a lot to start sewing, but where should you invest your money?

    You don’t have to spend money on All The Things when it comes to sewing supplies.

    Investing in the right tools can support you in creating a garment that’s sturdy and well constructed. Time and time again.

    Invest in this Sewing Tool: Your Sewing Machine

    Question tile asking, What's the. most pricey (dollar sign) sewing tool you own?

    When I asked Vintagettes what was the sewing tool they invested in, over 95% of them said their Sewing Machine! It goes to show that this one is a biggie- you can’t get around it.

    Prices range from extremely cheap ($25 machine) to extremely expensive ($3,000+!) It’s easy to get lost on this tool alone. 

    Keep in mind that for budget sewing machines:

    • They tend to be mostly plastic, which weigh too little. This means they tend to bounce around more often, which affects their timing and internal alignments
    • Cheap machines also tend to have limited settings (or worse) too many novelty settings. These tend to be rarely used for garment sewing, taking away from having more SOLID basic stitches
    • Cheap machines also tend to lack attachments or tools which you might need. Or they’re made of cheap materials which will fall apart easily.

    What makes a sewing machine more valuable?

    • Pricier machines tend to be heavier, which don’t bounce on your table (think of them like a tank)
    • They have more robust basic stitches. The straight stitch, zig zag, etc tend to have less issues over time, maintaining proper length, etc., and not skipping
    • Attachments are almost always included and don’t generally have to be replaced since they’re a lot more built for time

    If you’re looking to upgrade from an entry level or cheaper machine and don’t want to break the bank…

    • Consider the budget (obviously)
    • Think about what you actually use, day to day. For example, I tend to ONLY use a straight stitch, zig zag, and back stitch.
    • Think of what’s a nice to have versus a MUST
      • Must have a buttonhole foot
      • The machine must have all the attachments so I don’t have to buy them one at a time
      • Be easy to fix with a local repair person (or not)

    Invest in this Sewing Tool: Steam Iron

    Bianca holding a steam iron, discussing why it's a sewing tool to invest in.

    If you watched my Top Beginner Sewing Mistakes video, you’ve heard me say, “you should spend as much time worrying about your iron as you do with your sewing machine.

    While it seems like a basic tool, an iron has a lot of power in how you manipulate the fabric and fibers themselves. These details are ones that get skipped over by beginners. But in reality, they play one of the bigger factors in making something look professional and neat.

    Click HERE to learn more about Top Sewing Problems (and how to work through them)!

    What makes an iron more valuable?

    • Consistent control over temperature
    • Consistent control over steam output
    • They tend to weigh more and require less downward pressure to fuse interfacing

    If you’re using an entry level iron and don’t want to break the bank, I would recommend considering…

    • The size of the water tank needed on the iron?
    • What granularity do you want in temperature control?
    • How much steam control is needed?
    • Retractable cable or wireless?
    • Is it just for sewing or for regular clothing as well?

    Invest in this Sewing Tool: Cutting Implements

    Collection of cutting implements, discussing why they're an important sewing tool to invest in. Snips to pinking shears are displayed.

    This one is a tricky one, because everyone’s tolerance for a “nice version” of this can vary widely.

    Some people like tools with better handles, some people like having decorative ones. Some like heavy scissors and cutting tools, some like lighter ones due for ease of use, especially for joint pain.

    I have a wide range of cutting implements and each has a different purpose, collected over the years. None of these serve double purpose– they’re all very specific about what I need them to do.

    At the end of the day, I’m looking for quality, sharp tools. Tools which hold their edge the longest and which can be sharpened.

    Why? The main reason is around SAFETY. Also, cheap tools can damage fabric.

    If you’re looking for new cutting tools, think about these things:

    • Is this going to be comfortable to hold for potentially HOURS of time?
    • What do I need this to actually cut through?
    • What are my sharpening options? 

    Learning How to Invest in Sewing Tools takes time, but this list should get you up and running!

    Bianca with her sewing machine, discussing why it as an investment.

    Every tool is not only an investment, but it’s something you should be able to rely on again and again over the years.

    You don’t have to break the bank. A lot of the items on this list can be bought at a discount, with coupons, or on heavy markdown. Keep an eye out on your local stores and be sure to save up for the equipment you would really want use.


    Invest in these Sewing Tools to elevate your sewing! It's easy to get bogged down with cheap sewing tools, but the tools you invest in make a difference.
  • Picking Fabric for Sewing: Essential Tips!

    Picking Fabric for Sewing: Essential Tips!

    Don't know how to pick fabric for dressmaking? Watch this video tutorial to learn how to select the right fabric for your sewing project | Vintage on Tap Pinup Sewing Blog

    There are many memes on the internet regarding sewing and fabric buying.

    Fabric Buying Meme | Vintage on Tap, Sewing Blog

    To be honest, if you’re brand new to sewing, they can be really misleading. The fabric world can be your oyster– or it can be overwhelming and cause anxiety trying to figure out the perfect apparel fabric for that blouse you want to make.

    Let’s be real: walking into a fabric store can be a mind blowing experience.

    What fabric do you chose? How do you know what fabric works for what garment? And if you’re buying fabric online… where do you even start?

    The topic, unfortunately, is usually glossed over on most sewing blogs and websites, and while it may seem super 101 and basic, it doesn’t get discussed enough. Your entire sewing project is impacted by the fabric you choose.

    Before I dive into this topic…

    Picking fabric for clothes is a personal choice. Please, 100% feel free to use whatever fabric you want to use. Netting and tulle for dresses? Sparkly jacquard for a pair of trousers? Jersey for a bathing suit? Part of the sewing experience is experimenting, playing with materials, and having the freedom to do whatever you envision.

    With the above disclaimer, my fabric point of view is highly informed by university study. Mainly:

    I don’t want my home sewn garments to look homemade. I strive to make sure that my garments look professional, “unclockable”, and as RTW as possible (even if I sew vintage fashion!) When I walk down the street, I don’t want a single person to realize that the garment I’m wearing was made on a home sewing machine.

    While in university, my teachers without hesitation would point out what was obviously homemade… “Oh. That looks very home sewing.”

    As someone who started university with previous sewing experience, that’s not such a positive thing to hear, especially when using pricier fabrics is sometimes out of reach. However:

    The top way to make your home sewing look and behave professionally is to chose the best fabric for dressmaking at your price point.

    Below are my tips for how to approach picking fabric for sewing, based on my years of sewing experience.

    Learn how to pick fabric for clothes with this video tutorial, explaining how to approach your fabric search! | Vintage on Tap, Pinup Sewing Blog

    Carefully review the suggested fabrics on the back of your sewing pattern.

    The list can be long, confusing to look at, and if you’re new to sewing, be just too much. Especially when the section is usually titled, “Suggested and Recommended Fabrics.”

    Before tying yourself in knots picking fabric, take the time to consider the following question:

    What is the purpose of the garment you want to sew? Is it for work? For fun? Date night? Holiday party?

    Breaking down the reason you want to sew something will help narrow down the long list of fabrics on the back of the pattern.

    If you’re sewing something for a traditional work setting, you may want the fabric to look and feel crisp, to maintain a specific shape and feel that is work appropriate. Maybe you want the fabric to not attract cat hair that sticks to your clothing before heading into an important meeting.

    If you’re sewing something for fun, what sort of fun are you thinking? Saturday-evening-board-game sort of fun? Playing-soccer-with-friends sort of fun? If you’re looking for lounge clothes for Saturday evening board games, you might want something you can be comfortably curled into on the couch playing Monopoly. If you’re planning on playing soccer in your me made clothing, you may want fabric that is sweat-wicking and won’t cling when it has grass stains.

    The suggested fabrics may be extremely different, but it’s important to remember the list is what the pattern designer suggests, based off the way the pattern designer intended the garment to be worn. There are dozens of unlisted fabrics that may be used for nearly every single pattern.

    When in doubt: what are the fabric properties you want you garment to have?

    Fabric Swatch Book, Free Download | Vintage on Tap

    Check your swatch book before looking at what’s currently available in your local stores or online.

    Having a robust and thorough swatch book is key at this stage, especially if the range of recommended fabrics or fabric qualities you’re interested in is pretty large. Pulling out your swatch book to compare is imperative!

    Don’t have a swatch book? Now is the time to set yours up:

    Fabric Swatch Book, Tutorial | Vintage on Tap

    What is a swatch book?

    A collection of swatches which are organized in a reference binder. The swatch pages list fabric names, fiber content, fabric qualities, and even where you sourced each swatch in your collection!

    Taking five or ten minutes comparing the samples you have in a swatch book against a sewing pattern’s recommended fabrics will save you time, money, and headaches down the road by picking exactly the right apparel fabric.

    To continue with the above examples:

    If you’re looking at making something for the office, you may find that half of the recommended fabrics on your sewing pattern will be too thin, too flimsy, and may not fit into the qualities you’re looking for at your traditional workplace.

    If you’re making a sweatshirt for lounging at home on game night, part of your sewing pattern fabrics may be too stiff and won’t lend themselves to being comfy on the couch.

    And for your soccer gear, the recommended fabrics might be too athleisure and less performance and may not hold up during a rough game.

    Likewise, after reviewing all the recommended fabrics, you might find that you have other fabric types in your book which are better suited for your handmade garment and possess enough similar qualities to the the fabrics listed on the back of the pattern and could work!

    The key to having a robust swatch collection for this review, though, is to make sure to continue to build your swatch book over time.

    Using services such as Mood Fabric’s recently started Mood Swatch Club will help build your book quickly, and immediately give you access to swatches to start picking fabric for your clothes.

    Learn about the Mood Swatch Club and why it's perfect to build your swatch book for sewing! Video tips and real thoughts on this great resource! | Vintage on Tap Pinup Sewing Blog

    I recently received a free sample box of the Mood Swatch Club, and was immediately impressed by twenty-five beautiful sample swatches that I immediately added to my swatch collection. It was also super handy that each fabric swatch came with sticker on the back with fabric details, including fabric number to view on Mood Fabric’s website for more information

    Learn about the Mood Swatch Club and why it's perfect to build your swatch book for sewing! Video tips and real thoughts on this great resource! | Vintage on Tap Pinup Sewing Blog

    When you expose yourself to as many different fabrics as possible, you’re able to identify and spend time picking fabric for your sewing with ease and confidence.

    Learn about how to pick fabric for clothes in this video tutorial, walking you through the steps. | Vintage on Tap, Pinup Sewing Blog

    Go to fabric stores (online or in person) with a plan.

    The best comparison for this point is think of grocery shopping. There’s three different camps of people:

    Person Number One: The people who shop with a grocery list. They decided ahead of time what they needed, they have a list on their phone or on the back of an envelope, and they’re in and out. If they see a pint of ice cream or something they like last minute, it’s all good to throw it in the cart, because they didn’t miss the important stuff.

    Person Number Two: The people who shop without a grocery list. They tend to shop last minute, have a vague idea of what they need, and because they didn’t preplan, tend to circle the store a lot more for what they need. Shopping easily takes two or three times as long as the person with a list and they may not remember things they needed since it wasn’t top of mind.

    And bonus…

    Person Number Three: The people who shop hungry. They tend to go in in a hurry, may be HANGRY and make purchasing decisions they tend to regret. They may also forget things they needed while they were rushing out to go make dinner or pick up take out.

    My best sewing advice for fabric selection is… be Person Number One. Setting foot into a fabric store without a plan of action leads to the above sort of behaviors without looking out for the fabric you really need for your garment.

    Before I dive into this point…

    I’m all for browsing the fabric stores and enjoying the act of browsing. If anything, it’s a decompressing hour or two that I actually look forward to and savor. But if I’m on a sewing mission, I’m on a mission!

    Person Number One does some (or all) of these things:

    • Brings a pattern envelope, photocopy, or photo on their phone of what they want to make, so they can envision the fabric they’re looking at in store (or online) on their intended garment.
    • Brings a swatch or two from their swatch book to compare to what’s available.
    • Knows ahead of time what notions (sewing needles, thread, etc.) they’re going to need for the fabric they’re looking for.

    While in store, going in with a vision of what you want– look, feel, color, all of that– will help narrow down what you’re on the hunt for. This does NOT mean closing yourself off to inspiration (remember: Person Number One goes for the ice cream pint if they want it!) It does, however, mean that if you’re deviating from your intended fabric qualities, you’re making a conscious decision to do so and are better equipped to understand how that’ll affect your garment.

    Learn how to pick fabric for clothes with this video tutorial, explaining how to approach your fabric search! | Vintage on Tap, Pinup Sewing Blog

    Other Fabric Picking Considerations

    Pick the best fabric you can for your price point. Without diving into have-and-have not conversations, having honest self assessments as to what range of fabrics can be reasonably purchased is 100% important to success.

    Don’t buy the $100 p/yard fabric just because. Also, don’t buy the $2 p/yard fabric just because, either.

    Look for the qualities and feel you want and then decide from there what is best for your garment. A giant SALE sign does not automatically equate to the dress or blouse you want to sew. Likewise, taking a peek at the sales rack didn’t hurt anyone.

    I’ve found some of my favorite fabrics on the sales racks, such as with this tana lawn fabric I used to make a tie top and matching skirt.

    Butterick B5895, sewed a matching summer set | @vintageontap

    Click here to learn how to sew this matching retro outfit!

    But I’m also not shy about spending that little bit extra if the fabric behaves exactly how I want.

    Also, not all versions of a single fabric are the same. Depending on manufacturer, fabric store, or even country of origin, fabrics with the same name will vary. Also, fabrics may be mislabeled or be called different names depending on the store.

    Having your ideal swatch type in hand when you go fabric shopping will help guide towards the right selection that’s right for you. If you’re buying online, order a swatch of what you believe is going to be the best fabric to use and make your decision after that point.

    Have any other tips for selecting fabric for dressmaking? Leave your tips in the comments!

    Introducing the Mood Swatch Club! Learn how to pick fabric for dressmaking with the swatch club and by building a swatch book to use for sewing! | Vintage on Tap Pinup Sewing blog

    Thanks again to Mood Fabrics for the Mood Swatch Club sample! I loved receiving it and the fabric samples were fantastic. I highly recommend it, everyone! Mood Fabrics took a lot of care in how they put their box together and I really loved how the whole thing was packaged and shipped. It was legitimately (full personal opinion here!) one of those sewing treats to receive. I actually was super excited to open the box and pour over every fabric sample. Whomever is deciding on these swatch samples on the Mood Fabrics team… wow- you’re knocking it out of the park!

     If you sign up for the Swatch Club, be sure to tag me on Instagram (@vintageontap) to see what you thought of your box! I hope you love it as much as I did!

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    Don't know how to pick fabric for dressmaking? Watch this video tutorial to learn how to select the right fabric for your sewing projects! | Vintage on Tap Pinup Sewing Blog


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