Category: Other Adjustments

  • How To: No-Dart Full Bust Adjustment [2022 Update]

    How To: No-Dart Full Bust Adjustment [2022 Update]

    If you’re a C-cup or above, doing a full bust adjustment goes hand-in-hand with sewing. This even applies to sewing t-shirts.

    Seamwork Magazine Astoria Sweater | Vintage on Tap

    I’m sure we’ve all been there: weird drag lines from the arms and above the chest, fabric pulled to its limit, and uncomfortable compression across the front of our bodies which feels and looks terrible, because the fabric and pattern doesn’t have enough give. 

    Just because it’s sewn with stretchy fabric, doesn’t mean that t-shirt is going to fit correctly. 

    In enters the No-Dart Full Bust Adjustment, perfect for those shirts and knit dresses that just need a little bit of extra space across the bust, creating comfort, removing the “wings” from the garment and adding ease to your piece.

    Key components to creating a knit garment for larger chested people are straight forward, but should be done step-by-step. 

    Testing Your Fabric

    Not all knits are the same! Planning on sewing a t-shirt? Test the fabric’s stretch, calculating if it matches the required stretch percentage of the pattern you’re making. 

    Use the simple formula below to calculate your fabric’s stretch:

    Graphic describing the formula for Percentage Stretch of a fabric. Stretched distance divided by the original distance, minus one.

    Also watch for:

    • What does the fabric’s bounce-back look like after it’s been stretched?
      • If it bounces back to it’s original size and shape, fantastic!
      • If it doesn’t, maybe reconsider the fabric choice, as over time, it’ll warp over the body and wear out poorly.
    • Does it look transparent, shiny, or “off” when stretched?
      • The fiber content may not be able to support a high stretch or not look as intended when worn.
    • Does the fabric warp when stretched?
      • Again, will probably not look as intended when worn.

    In all cases above, they might work for you and your fabric- but take note regardless. You may find that the look of the stretched version is not what you want to wear across your chest.

    Choosing the Right Size for You + Your Fabric

    After confirming your fabric is great for your sewing project, it’s time to pick the right size to work from. 

    Watch the video below if you need help reading a size chart on a pattern:

    A few high level things to take into account when selecting a pattern size:

    • Choosing your Bust size should be based on your High Bust measurement, with anticipation that a no-dart full bust adjustment will increase both the waist and bust measurements in width.
    • Sizing up will also mean sizing up the width of the shoulders and arm scythes– try and match those measurements more closely than the Waist and Bust size. The Waist and Bust measurements can be changed- the others will be substantially more challenging.

    Once you select your size, confirm your fabric’s full stretch against the size. Use the formula below to confirm your fabric will indeed stretch to capture your body’s measurements:

    Graphic describing the formula for completed garment measurement with stretch. Finished garment times 1.(percentage of stretch)

    Once you’re able to confirm that the fabric will stretch to your measurements based on the selected size, you’re ready to move on to doing sewing pattern adjustments.

    Doing the No-Dart Full Bust Adjustment

    No Dart Adjustment =/= there are no darts involved! Instead, it means we have to use dart methodologies to get the adjustment done. 

    First, decide how much of an FBA you have to do, using the general guidelines below:

    Graphic describing standard Full Bust Adjustment guidelines. C cup, add 1 inch, D/DD cup, add 2-3 inches, E cup+, add 1+ inch per size.

    If your fabric is low stretch, you may need to make a half muslin and measure out the distance between the center front of your muslin and the center front of your body, as demonstrated in the image below:

    Once this number is found, you’re able to move onto the sewing adjustment. 

    Step One: Complete a “regular” Full Bust Adjustment [Timestamp: 09:36]

    If the pattern has a bust point indicated, follow the normal steps to completing a full bust adjustment. If the pattern does not have a bust point indicated, watch my video for how to identify this location on your pattern, based on your measurements. 

    Step Two: Rotate the Dart to the Bottom of the Pattern [Timestamp: 18:43]

    Cut out the side dart, and rotate the side dart closed, pivoting the dart to the bottom of the pattern. Tape the side dart closed and fill in paper at the bottom of the pattern piece. 

    Sewing pattern, showing you that a side dart has been rotated to the bottom of the pattern

    Step Three: Rotate the Dart… OUT! [Timestamp: 21:23]

    To complete the no-dart full bust adjustment, rotate the dart out from the side of the pattern. Measure the size of the dart from Step Two, and take the distance out from the side seam. From there, true out the side seam, to make a smooth curve matching the original pattern shape as closely as is reasonable. Then, walk your pattern seam.

    Unsure of how to walk your pattern pieces? Watch the video below to learn how:

    Step Four: Complete the Full Bust Adjustment

    After walking your side seam, make sure the pattern hasn’t been lengthened too long in the front. Measure the center front and compare that to you– if it’s too long, bring it up. But make sure to keep a touch of extra length, to allow the fabric to comfortably go over your chest.

    Step Five: Sew your Final Muslin

    Especially if this is your first time doing a no-dart full bust adjustment, I highly recommend doing this step. If you’re a seasoned seamstress, this may not be needed.

    How to do a No-Dart Full Bust Adjustment Tutorial, this time in a white shirt showing a completed version

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  • Beautiful Clothes with NO Sewing Adjustments – Is it Possible?

    Beautiful Clothes with NO Sewing Adjustments – Is it Possible?

    Is it possible to make an amazing garment with no sewing adjustments? 

    Bianca from Vintage on Tap, standing in front of a green plant wall

    A garment that fits straight out of the envelope, with no sewing adjustments, with no problems, and fits you like a glove is a dream come true, even for me! 

    So I wanted to give it a shot.

    I wanted to find out if I could make a dress straight from the envelope and have it fit decently well.

    Bianca making a silly face with tropical fabric and the Gertie Cinch It Dress

    I chose the Charm Patterns Cinch It dress for this experiment, released in Spring 2021. 

    What drew me to this pattern was: 

    • The dress was described as a simple pop-over dress, meaning it should fit decently ok*, as long as I followed the instructions.
    • If it worked out, it had many options for customization, with additional collars, sleeves, and pockets to make several versions.
    • The completed pieces I saw online looked like vintage-inspired dream dresses!

    *: I know pop over dresses are super simple, super generalized, and made to fit at a very basic level. My expectations were medium-to-low. I wanted to get in the general ball park and feel decent in the dress.

    The moral of the story?

    No sewing adjustments is a rarity if you already face regular sewing challenges, or experience the same fit issues over and over. 

    Bianca wearing a completed Charm Patterns Cinch It Dress, a popover dress.
    Vintage on Tap, standing outside on the sidewalk, laughing

    While the concept of the dress is brilliant, I face challenges very common for my body type, which were not easily addressed with most patterns straight from the envelope. This is extremely common for most people.

    For the Charm Patterns Cinch-It, these included:

    • My incredibly petite frame, which impacts my shoulder width. The shoulders of the Cinch-it dress were roughly 1.5” too wide for me, which would make it a challenge for well fitting sleeves, had I made those options.
    • My petite frame’s torso length, which impacts bodice length and waist placement. The shirring line on the dress started over 2 inches too low for me, and extended down over 4 inches– which for a combined 6” of Torso + Waist, put the bottom edge of shirring past the midpoint of my hips.
    • Overall dress length, which is easily remedied, but worth a mention.
    Close up of elastic waist of the Charm Patterns Cinch it Dress

    Is there a pattern out there you can make with no sewing adjustments?

    Yes and no! 

    Depending on the adjustments you may tend to do, there are pattern companies which may fit your body shape more closely due to the nature of their pattern drafting block.

    Bianca reading a book about Frida Kahlo outside

    For example, Seamwork Patterns tend to fit me decently well, due to a larger block cup size and shorter torso length. While alterations are still common, their drafting is naturally closer to my body shape. You can see this well in my Penny Dress, which fit like a glove.

    Video tutorial for retro sewing, the Colette Penny dress | Vintage on Tap

    For the most part, though, it’s rare to make a pattern straight from the envelope with no sewing adjustments. 

    This is perfectly normal!

    Remember that pattern companies draft to their audience’s average. Even the patterns marketed as “easy to sew” may need some slight adjustments for a better fit. 

    Looking to dip your toe into pattern adjustments, or do you also have a petite frame like me and a larger bust? My fitting videos might provide some insights on how to approach fitting challenges!

    Click the video below to start my Fitting Videos playlist!

    Is there a pattern you’ve sewn that fit straight from the package with no sewing adjustments?

    Please let me know in the comments!


    Is it Possible to Sew with No pattern adjustments? Bianca posing in front of a vine wall, wearing a handmade dress

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