• Email
  • Instagram
  • Pinterest
  • Twitter
  • YouTube
  • Skip to primary navigation
  • Skip to main content
  • Skip to primary sidebar
  • Skip to footer
  • START HERE
  • Tops
    • Butterick
    • Simplicity
    • Seamwork Magazine
    • Patterns by Gertie
    • View All
  • Dresses
    • Butterick
    • McCall’s
    • Vintage Vogue
    • Simplicity
    • Colette Patterns
    • Patterns by Gertie
    • View All
  • Skirts
    • Tribe Patterns
    • Self Drafted
    • View All
  • Outerwear
    • Butterick
    • Seamwork Magazine
    • Papercut
    • View All
  • Lingerie
    • Seamwork Magazine
    • Vintage Pattern Selector
    • View All
  • Accessories
    • McCall’s
    • Self Drafted
    • View All
  • Bust Adjustments
    • Darts
    • Gathers
    • Princess Seams
    • View All
  • Techniques & Tips
    • Pattern Drafting
    • Machine Techniques
    • Hand Sewing
    • Other Tips
    • Resource Lists
    • Tools
    • View All

Vintage on Tap

  • START HERE
  • Tops
    • Butterick
    • Simplicity
    • Seamwork Magazine
    • Patterns by Gertie
    • View All
  • Dresses
    • Butterick
    • McCall’s
    • Vintage Vogue
    • Simplicity
    • Colette Patterns
    • Patterns by Gertie
    • View All
  • Skirts
    • Tribe Patterns
    • Self Drafted
    • View All
  • Outerwear
    • Butterick
    • Seamwork Magazine
    • Papercut
    • View All
  • Lingerie
    • Seamwork Magazine
    • Vintage Pattern Selector
    • View All
  • Accessories
    • McCall’s
    • Self Drafted
    • View All
  • Bust Adjustments
    • Darts
    • Gathers
    • Princess Seams
    • View All
  • Techniques & Tips
    • Pattern Drafting
    • Machine Techniques
    • Hand Sewing
    • Other Tips
    • Resource Lists
    • Tools
    • View All
    • Email
    • Instagram
    • Pinterest
    • Twitter
    • YouTube

How to Read a Sewing Pattern Envelope

March 31, 2021

If you’re a beginner sewist, a sewing pattern envelope is NOT easy to read! Learning the mechanics of how to sew while also struggling to understand the pattern envelope you’re working with is exhausting.

If you’re starting your sewing journey, let’s save you time. This post walks you through what an experienced seamstress looks at, so you can ramp up your sewing faster. 

Vintage Vogue V9280 video series, breaking down the sewing and fitting process for easy sewing! | Vintage on Tap

A sewing pattern envelope can look like gibberish if you don’t understand the nuances of sewing language. 

For me, the first pattern I ever worked with was something I picked out for Halloween and… I legitimately didn’t understand anything I was looking at. From the size chart to the recommended fabrics, my eyes glazed over. I genuinely had no comprehension of what it was I was even trying to read. 

I don’t want you to go through that experience. This post will walk you through, step-by-step, what to look at and how to interpret it.

Once you learn the basics of what you’re reading, it’s substantially easier to use thousands of other sewing patterns.

Choosing a Size from the Sewing Pattern Envelope

For the Big 4 pattern companies, there’s usually a distinction between the smaller and larger patterns. These sizes are normally grouped together for printing purposes and feature size ranges. There are also groupings for plus-size, children’s sizing, petites and “standard” sizes.

To determine if you fit into one size range versus another, take a look at the size chart. You can usually find this on the back of a printed envelope. 

BIG NOTE: Your size in ready-to-wear (what you buy at Target, or Nordstrom, etc) is NOT the same on a sewing pattern. You want to know your physical measurements FIRST before deciding on what size range is most appropriate to you!

The Size Chart

Size chart, in both inches and centimeters, on a sewing pattern envelope

The chart organized in a simple grid, outlining Bust, Waist, and Hip sizes. Additional measurements may be listed, like length or distance from neck to waist. When approaching a pattern, most fit decisions can be made with the Bust-Waist-Hips measurements.

NOTE: You might fit into multiple sizes and that’s ok. 

To read the chart, find the size (or range of sizes) closest to yours.

Before you walk away with that pattern, double check the Finished Garment Measurements chart, if available. This similar chart will break down what the completed Bust-Waist-Hips measurements will be.

If a Completed Garment Measurement differs widely from your actual measurements, that’s usually “ease” or the amount of extra moving fabric you’ll have to sit/stand/do a backflip in. This topic is outside the scope of this post.

Pattern Description

Sewing Pattern garment description. Breaks down in detail the elements of a garment.

The Pattern Description is relatively straightforward on the sewing pattern envelope, breaking down the specific description of the garment. It’ll talk about the length, intended fit, and details like what type of zipper it’s using or cut of sleeve. If there are multiple designs in a pattern envelope, it’ll also detail what the difference is between them.

This reference supports the line drawing on the envelope, specifically describing one design over another. Another bonus is that if you’re practicing additional sewing techniques, you can see what you’ll learn in that design.

NOTE: A/B/C denote specific design elements. Pay attention to the letter, as its be used as a reference point for the entire design.

Notions

Scan of a sewing pattern envelope. Text displays the recommended notions and fabrics for a garment.

Straight forward, but very simple. This section breaks down what specific notions you need for the design you want to make. If you’re making A or B, it’ll break down what size zippers, buttons, or other sundries you’ll need.

Recommended Fabrics

This section lists out all recommended fabrics for your sewing pattern. Using this information (as well as fabric swatch book,) you can narrow down the best material for your use case. If there are a lot of options, the list also shows you the possibilities with the design. Read the list carefully! You can dramatically change the sewing pattern by changing the fabric chosen for it.

NOTE: Be careful if you’re selecting an unlisted fabric! Using a fabric not recommended may change the drape and silhouette of the garment in unexpected ways. I highly recommend sticking the list if you’re a beginner.

If you’re taking the plunge on using a fabric not listed, make sure to consult your Fabric Swatch Book for something similar. This way you can ensure that you’re still getting the feel of the recommended fabrics.

Additionally, there are quite a few warnings in the fabric description!

  • Diagonals: Some sewing patterns call out that obvious diagonals should be avoided. The way the pattern is designed means that the fabric may clash with the shape of the pattern pieces. This is an explicit call out to avoid diagonals as much as possible.
  • Extra fabric for matching: If you want to use a plaid or striped fabric, you must buy extra fabric. It doesn’t specify how much, but the rule of thumb I always use is about half an extra yard. If it’s expensive fabric, I go with an additional yard, in case of major issues.
  • Use Nap yardages for…: For fabrics which are printed with an obvious top and bottom, use the yardage amounts and layouts indicated more carefully. This ensures your pattern pieces are cut correctly (because there’s more opportunity for error)
  • Note the * // ** — which indicate how much yardage you need (in Big 4 patterns)
    • For a Napped fabric (obvious top/bottom) — one asterisk 
    • For non-Napped (no obvious top/bottom) — two asterisk

The Yardage Chart

Scan of a sewing pattern envelope, focused on the yardage amounts for sewing a particular garment in a particular size. Sizes 16-20 are highlighted, as well as the 45 inch and 60 inch yardage width.

Before approaching the yardage chart, have your size on hand (as picked out on the size chart.)

Example: based on the size chart, I range between 16 and 20, so I’m focusing on those three sizes.

Isolate out what specific design you’re focusing on to start breaking down how much yardage you’d need. For B designs, look at areas defined by the B, etc.

Dress Fabric

Continuing the example above, if the fabric I’ve found on Mood or at Joann’s is 45 inches wide… I’ll buy anywhere between 6.5 and 6.75 yards of fabric (!) If the fabric I’ve found is 60 inches wide… I’ll want to buy 4.5 to 4.60 yards, based on the size ranges 16 through 20 on the example pattern.

NOTE: If you’re a beginner, I would air on the larger amount. This helps make sure you have enough fabric to work with. If you’ve been sewing for a while, you might want to do less based on what you normally use. In my case, I’m short and have to shorten *all* my pieces, so I stick to the lower number.

Additional Materials by Size

Same considerations as above. Find your size range on the chart to determine how much material to purchase. 

Learn how to pick fabric for clothes with this video tutorial, explaining how to approach your fabric search! | Vintage on Tap, Pinup Sewing Blog

Once you know how to read a sewing pattern envelope, SO MANY doors are unlocked.

At this point you can work with all printed sewing patterns and reading PDF pattern information as well. 
Knowing what you’re looking at, deciphering what the envelope is saying ramps up your sewing experience.

Many beginner sewing questions are answered on the envelope. Taking the time to read and analyze the information there goes a long way.

I highly recommend a related video regarding Beginner Sewing Challenges, linked below:

Sewing is a Journey all its Own, Learning the “Sewing Language” will Help!

I hope these tips and video have helped demystify some of the Sewing Language, so you can get stitching right away, making beautiful garments!


Filed Under: Pattern Drafting, Techniques & Tips Tagged With: sewing pattern

You might also love

  • Collection of pattern designs, available from three new independent sewing pattern companiesPDF Pattern Companies to Try in 2021
  • How to Redraft a Facing, video tutorial | Vintage on TapHow to Redraft a Facing, Video Tutorial
  • How to Walk a Sewing Pattern, video tutorial | Vintage on TapHow to Walk a Sewing Pattern, Video Tutorial
  • Invest in These Sewing Tools for Better Projects
Invest in These Sewing Tools for Better Projects »
« Beautiful Clothes with NO Sewing Adjustments – Is it Possible?

Reader Interactions

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

Primary Sidebar

My name is Bianca, I'm 34 years old, and a California girl through and through 🏖

I inspire people to sew, to feel comfortable and confident in their bodies, and am an avid lover of tiki culture and Vintage Style Not Vintage Values!

Discover More Vintage Sewing

How to Walk a Sewing Pattern, video tutorial | Vintage on Tap
How to Walk a Sewing Pattern, Video Tutorial
How to Sew a Corner Seam | Vintage on Tap
How to Sew a Corner Seam, Video Tutorial
How to Sew a Kickpleat, Completed Kickpleat| @vintageontap
How to Sew a Kickpleat

Learn how to pick fabric for clothes with this video tutorial, explaining how to approach your fabric search! | Vintage on Tap, Pinup Sewing Blog
Picking Fabric for Sewing: Essential Tips!
Drafting a facing and lining combo on a garment isn't hard with this tutorial! | Vintage on Tap
Intro to Drafting a Facing and Lining Combo!
Spring Fabric You’ll be Excited to Sew With!

ARCHIVES

CATEGORIES

POPULAR POSTS

This is the Colette Rue dress made with supplies purchased at Mood Fabrics | @vintageontap

The Colette Rue Dress

Rago Shapewear Girdle, Pinup Weightloss as a Seamstress | @vintageontap

Weightloss as a Seamstress, Revisted

Organizing your sewing patterns, digitally and storing correctly | @vintageontap

Organizing your Sewing Patterns, How to Video

How to Sew a Kickpleat, Completed Kickpleat| @vintageontap

How to Sew a Kickpleat

Footer

Copyright © 2023 · LBD Pro V on Genesis Framework · WordPress · Log in

To those who eat the Turkey, hope you have a good To those who eat the Turkey, hope you have a good one 🦃 To those who rage against the Turkey, that too 🕊️⁠
⁠
Spending today at home recovering from illness and rage watching the World Cup. Typical us. ⁠
⁠
From our house to yours 💝
Oh hey. I made a Reel! (This is what happens when Oh hey. I made a Reel! (This is what happens when I’m stuck in bed sick 😷!)⁠
⁠
Last week I posted this trench coat on my channel and I’m still OBSESSED. Fits like a glove, makes me feel my 1940s fantasy, and sooooo warm and cozy. ⁠
⁠
Check it out, if you’re subscribed to the channel.⁠
⁠
And in the mean time, I will continue to debate whether or not I want to commit to a “IG Reels Strategy” as the internet keeps telling me I should do 🫡 ⁠
⁠
⁠
#falloutfit #1940sfashion #madewithmood #vintagesewing
Oh hey. There's a new video on the channel this pa Oh hey. There's a new video on the channel this past week about me making this hat, my last summer project of the year 😎⁠
⁠
If you wanna see my adventures trying to figure out how the heck snaps work, it's on the 'tube 😬!!⁠
⁠
#seamworkmeg #marysunhat #sewingblogger
We out here in these streets, sewing pretty clothe We out here in these streets, sewing pretty clothes and attempting to not fall mid-chola pose 🙏🏻⁠
⁠
👗 I made a @seamwork Meg dress with blue/white gingham shirting material which was perfect for a late summer look~ ⁠
⁠
Simple to sew and no fitting adjustments!! Forever appreciative that Seamwork's curvy pattern block nearly always fits me perfectly! ⁠
⁠
Might make a second for my birthday next month- we'll see 😉⁠
⁠
#sewingblogger ⁠
Six years on YouTube. Thousands of views and a hun Six years on YouTube. Thousands of views and a hundred videos... but still trying, still learning. Still full of excitement that I get to do this ❤️⁠
⁠
And insanely grateful that you're along for the ride 😎⁠
⁠
Thanks everyone for all your support viewing and commenting on my latest video- especially after 365 days since my last published tutorial, it's just amazing how much y'all are turning out to view it! ⁠
⁠
Did I answer all your no-dart FBA questions? Are you still curious to learn more? Does this video need... a follow up 😮?!⁠
⁠
Let me know down below!⁠ (and if you wanna watch the video, it's linked in my bio~)⁠
⁠
#smallyoutuber #sewingblogger #jefamoves #selfdiscoveryjourney #knowyourpower
Back to back meetings, coffee in my mug, but embra Back to back meetings, coffee in my mug, but embracing those 60s vibes 🌊⁠
⁠
New sewing video coming out this weekend and SO EXCITED for it. Been working super hard to get my old videos ready for publishing again. ⁠
⁠
Coming soon, to a YouTube channel near you... (aka, mine!) ⁠
⁠
🎥 No Dart FBAs, revisited! Answering all the questions that people have left me since 2017 😲⁠
⁠
🎥 Petite Adjustments! For us shorties!⁠
⁠
🎥 Sewing through body changes - Requested time and time again and finally tackling it! ⁠
⁠
Really looking forward to publishing again- it's been too long 😭⁠
⁠
If you're not subscribed, click through my Link in Bio 🏁⁠
⁠
#sewingforme #workfromhomestyle #rockabillygirl #jefamoves
⁠
"The Process is about doing the right things, righ "The Process is about doing the right things, right now. Not worrying about what might happen later, or the results, or the whole picture." ⁠
⁠
Credit: The Obstacle is the Way⁠
⁠
I've been doing a lot of reading about Stoicism over the last month and it's honestly been a really amazing "unlock" as I start posting more and *gasp* put out a new video later on this week.⁠
⁠
When started the project "Vintage on Tap", I would question every sewing project, every photo, every video, every idea, to the point of straight indecision and Analysis Paralysis. It's why I'd stop posting after a while, or why I'd stop taking pictures or even dressing up in the clothes that make me feel the most Me.⁠
⁠
Quotes like the one I shared really encapsulate the attitude I'm taking with a lot of things. ⁠
⁠
👗 Do what I can, right now. Do I control it? Take action with it. Am I spending more time thinking about the problem rather than solving the problem? Yikes!⁠
⁠
👗 Dress.Up. It's honestly one of the things that makes me feel the most like myself. Without my "drag" I don't feel like Bianca 😘⁠
⁠
👗Sew all the things. Seriously, the bug bit me again and I already have new projects to make on my sewing cart. And spending time with a thread and needle is healing magic.⁠
⁠
So ya. New video coming this week. Stay tuned (and follow on the 'Tube!) ⁠
⁠
⁠
#vintagesewing #sewingblogger #1950sfashion #modernpinup #vintagefloral #sewvintage #pinupofinstagram #vintageenthusiast
Beautiful things I brought back from the UK ✈️ Beautiful things I brought back from the UK ✈️⁠
⁠
🇬🇧 Liberty of London and V&A Museum archive pattern books. It was *extremely* important to me to purchase them... to observe the prints and patterns, to read the detailed historical notes, and to add to my creative and sewing library. I know I'll reference these over and over again in the future.⁠
⁠
🇬🇧 Liberty of London fabrics. HUGE because this is one of those textile design houses that I've only ever dreamed of working for (the other, btw, is Hermes 🥰)⁠
⁠
🇬🇧 Liberty "Alexa Frill Dress" pattern and notepad. The pattern is not something I normally gravitate towards, but I had no idea they actually had a pattern line so I wanted to check it out. The notepad will be used for my daily activities.⁠
⁠
🇬🇧Merchant and Mills wide bow scissors to replace my janky snips!⁠
⁠
🇬🇧 V&A Tote bag because... well, I needed one in the moment and the pattern was too beautiful to pass up!⁠
⁠
🇬🇧 Jane Austen inspired tarot cards. I only had 5-10 minutes to pop my head into the Jane Austen Center in Bath during a tour, and while I actually wanted everything in shop, I couldn't say no to buying one of my favorite things in the world *TAROT CARDS* at a gift shop dedicated to one of the authors who had the most impact on my young adult life. I can't wait to read with them!⁠
⁠
Is there something I should have picked up while I was there? Did I miss any Sewing Musts?⁠
⁠
As for UK Musts, I definitely 1- Got used to riding the Tube, 2- Ate Marmite, and 3- Had enough Traditional English Breakfasts to last me at least another year. All in all, fantastic trip.⁠
⁠
#sewingblogger #millennialsewing #sewingnotions #libertyoflondon #britishtextiles #tarotreadersofinstagram
It's important to take time off to give your brain It's important to take time off to give your brain time TO THINK and FIND INSPIRATION ✨⁠
⁠
From Old Trafford to Buckingham Palace, the V&A Museum to Bath... to Edinburgh! From a quick 5 minute visit to the Jane Austen Museum in Bath... to the ACTUAL Roman baths... and... even... Stonehenge- up close and personal 😱 (I actually cried there- it was so powerful and overwhelming.)⁠
⁠
While "wanderlust" and "omg take me back!" tend to encapsulate a lot of pop travel, I was instead left with the idea that... ⁠
⁠
WOW. It's really important to "shut off" regular life sometimes, to let your mind breathe and to allow new ideas to formulate. To reconnect with what actually makes you excited to get up in the morning. ⁠
⁠
I know this is a luxury for a lot of people-- actually, for most of us, with the grind of day-to-day life. But. When the opportunity arises, it's never a bad idea. ⁠
⁠
For me this sort of big trip is a rarity and my daily "shut off" moment is instead my coffee in the morning, with my journal and my tarot cards.⁠
⁠
What's yours? ⁠
⁠
#travelforthesoul #mentalhealth #sewinginspiration #uktravel⁠
⁠
Wait- has it already been TWO WEEKS since coming b Wait- has it already been TWO WEEKS since coming back from the UK? GET OUT 😱⁠
⁠
It was such a beautiful trip, being present for @luka1502 and @mr_mistta 's wedding! ⁠
⁠
Sharing a few photos of the Big Day that I really loved-- though more photos of the rest of the trip coming this week. ⁠
⁠
Super happy that we got to go- the ceremony was really magical 💍⁠
⁠
🥲⁠
⁠
#britishwedding #morningwear #vintageinspired #1950svintage

Copyright © 2023 · Vintage on Tap · Blog Design by Little Blue Deer
Privacy Policy