Tag: sewing pattern

  • PDF Pattern Companies to Try in 2021

    PDF Pattern Companies to Try in 2021

    Paper or PDF pattern?

    Stack of paper sewing patterns

    It’s easy to have a paper pattern buying addiction. I’m *far* from immune to the 2$ Joann’s pattern sale which has left me with a collection of over 1000 printed sewing patterns. 

    But having so many paper patterns… from the same big companies is kind of a problem.

    These printed patterns take up a lot of space. They also tend to all be designed from the same pattern block. Sometimes, they tend to not be so fresh (design-wise.) And, potentially worse, the designers may be hit or miss as to whether or not they align with your personal values. 

    Enter PDF pattern companies.

    This post features three PDF pattern designers I’m excited about right now and encourage you check out!

    PLEASE NOTE! This is not a sponsored post. I’ve actually not worked with their designs in the past. But I think they’re doing some interesting work and wanted to highlight them in this post.

    Friday Pattern Company

    Their PDF pattern designs are modern but with minimalist sensibilities and some cute details!

    What I particularly love about Friday Pattern Company is that their pdf sewing patterns go up to 7X! The increase in size range makes these designs extremely inclusive, opening the door for more people to dip their toe in and make something that makes them feel like a million bucks. 

    The two patterns below, the Davenport Dress and Sagebrush Top are gorgeous.

    Two models, side by side, modeling garments from the Friday Pattern Company, displaying the range of size inclusivity

    Both designs are feminine, practical, and have a completely different feels if sewn in different fabric. Both are extremely accessible. 

    A few other reasons to be excited about Friday Pattern Company:

    • The Friday Pattern Company size range demonstrates they’ve been committed to the mission for a while.
    • Their patterns are both available in PDF AND paper
    • They donate 5% of their pattern sales to charity and each pattern has a different correlated charity!

    Untitled Thoughts

    Besides being absolutely in love with the company name, the commitment to eco-consciousness is real with Untitled Thoughts! Brittani, who owns the small design studio, goes in depth in the About Me page about how she’s staying committed to caring for the planet.

    This even includes information about the light bulbs which are used in the studio to ensure energy efficiency! 

    The two patterns below, the Amelie and Mathilde dresses are both beautiful, and are really in the spirit of a summer picnic.

    Two dresses side by side, one with an open back and buttons down the back of the skirt, the other as a wrap top, both pdf pattern designs by Untitled Thoughts

    In addition to what I’ve mentioned above, Untitled Thoughts also donates 5-10% to charity. There’s even a yearly transparency report breaking down where the funds were sent! The amount of integrity with Untitled Thoughts is extremely refreshing, and for a PDF pattern company which is a one-person operation, it’s extremely impressive. 

    Bambini del Mare

    The PDF pattern company I’m most excited about right now is Bambini del Mare. Serah, who owns and designs this small brand, is a Bay Area local who attended CCA (California College of the Arts) — just a stone’s throw away from the VoT studio! 

    The two patterns below are my favorite from what has been designed so far:

    Two images of Bambini del Mare PDF patterns, one is a white dress with ruffles on the straps. The other is a bolero that covers the upper torso with fluttery sleeves.

    A couple more reasons I’m excited about Bambini del Mare:

    • The looks are all extremely romantic– they’re all gorgeous and vintage inspired without being frumpy
    • Serah is focused on sustainability and philanthropy and donates 5% of her earnings per quarter to a rotating list of charities.

    PDF pattern companies are doing interesting things.

    Bianca from Vintage on Tap holding up a design from Bambini del Mare on an iPad, talking about PDF pattern companies

    From donating to causes they care about, to going above and beyond with size inclusivity, to even sourcing their sample fabrics to ensure they’re sustainable, it’s extremely impressive. These are examples of what us, as sewing consumers, have an opportunity to support and vote with our dollar on. 

    While working with PDFs can come with their own set of challenges, there’s opportunities to explore new (pattern) points of view and new pattern blocks, all while supporting a small company.

    PDF Sewing Companies You Don't Know About Pinterest image, with a collage of up-and-coming designers
  • How to Read a Sewing Pattern Envelope

    How to Read a Sewing Pattern Envelope

    If you’re a beginner sewist, a sewing pattern envelope is NOT easy to read! Learning the mechanics of how to sew while also struggling to understand the pattern envelope you’re working with is exhausting.

    If you’re starting your sewing journey, let’s save you time. This post walks you through what an experienced seamstress looks at, so you can ramp up your sewing faster. 

    Stack of paper sewing patterns

    A sewing pattern envelope can look like gibberish if you don’t understand the nuances of sewing language. 

    For me, the first pattern I ever worked with was something I picked out for Halloween and… I legitimately didn’t understand anything I was looking at. From the size chart to the recommended fabrics, my eyes glazed over. I genuinely had no comprehension of what it was I was even trying to read. 

    I don’t want you to go through that experience. This post will walk you through, step-by-step, what to look at and how to interpret it.

    Once you learn the basics of what you’re reading, it’s substantially easier to use thousands of other sewing patterns.

    Choosing a Size from the Sewing Pattern Envelope

    For the Big 4 pattern companies, there’s usually a distinction between the smaller and larger patterns. These sizes are normally grouped together for printing purposes and feature size ranges. There are also groupings for plus-size, children’s sizing, petites and “standard” sizes.

    To determine if you fit into one size range versus another, take a look at the size chart. You can usually find this on the back of a printed envelope. 

    BIG NOTE: Your size in ready-to-wear (what you buy at Target, or Nordstrom, etc) is NOT the same on a sewing pattern. You want to know your physical measurements FIRST before deciding on what size range is most appropriate to you!

    The Size Chart

    Size chart, in both inches and centimeters, on a sewing pattern envelope

    The chart organized in a simple grid, outlining Bust, Waist, and Hip sizes. Additional measurements may be listed, like length or distance from neck to waist. When approaching a pattern, most fit decisions can be made with the Bust-Waist-Hips measurements.

    NOTE: You might fit into multiple sizes and that’s ok. 

    To read the chart, find the size (or range of sizes) closest to yours.

    Before you walk away with that pattern, double check the Finished Garment Measurements chart, if available. This similar chart will break down what the completed Bust-Waist-Hips measurements will be.

    If a Completed Garment Measurement differs widely from your actual measurements, that’s usually “ease” or the amount of extra moving fabric you’ll have to sit/stand/do a backflip in. This topic is outside the scope of this post.

    Pattern Description

    Sewing Pattern garment description. Breaks down in detail the elements of a garment.

    The Pattern Description is relatively straightforward on the sewing pattern envelope, breaking down the specific description of the garment. It’ll talk about the length, intended fit, and details like what type of zipper it’s using or cut of sleeve. If there are multiple designs in a pattern envelope, it’ll also detail what the difference is between them.

    This reference supports the line drawing on the envelope, specifically describing one design over another. Another bonus is that if you’re practicing additional sewing techniques, you can see what you’ll learn in that design.

    NOTE: A/B/C denote specific design elements. Pay attention to the letter, as its be used as a reference point for the entire design.

    Notions

    Scan of a sewing pattern envelope. Text displays the recommended notions and fabrics for a garment.

    Straight forward, but very simple. This section breaks down what specific notions you need for the design you want to make. If you’re making A or B, it’ll break down what size zippers, buttons, or other sundries you’ll need.

    Recommended Fabrics

    This section lists out all recommended fabrics for your sewing pattern. Using this information (as well as fabric swatch book,) you can narrow down the best material for your use case. If there are a lot of options, the list also shows you the possibilities with the design. Read the list carefully! You can dramatically change the sewing pattern by changing the fabric chosen for it.

    NOTE: Be careful if you’re selecting an unlisted fabric! Using a fabric not recommended may change the drape and silhouette of the garment in unexpected ways. I highly recommend sticking the list if you’re a beginner.

    If you’re taking the plunge on using a fabric not listed, make sure to consult your Fabric Swatch Book for something similar. This way you can ensure that you’re still getting the feel of the recommended fabrics.

    Additionally, there are quite a few warnings in the fabric description!

    • Diagonals: Some sewing patterns call out that obvious diagonals should be avoided. The way the pattern is designed means that the fabric may clash with the shape of the pattern pieces. This is an explicit call out to avoid diagonals as much as possible.
    • Extra fabric for matching: If you want to use a plaid or striped fabric, you must buy extra fabric. It doesn’t specify how much, but the rule of thumb I always use is about half an extra yard. If it’s expensive fabric, I go with an additional yard, in case of major issues.
    • Use Nap yardages for…: For fabrics which are printed with an obvious top and bottom, use the yardage amounts and layouts indicated more carefully. This ensures your pattern pieces are cut correctly (because there’s more opportunity for error)
    • Note the * // ** — which indicate how much yardage you need (in Big 4 patterns)
      • For a Napped fabric (obvious top/bottom) — one asterisk 
      • For non-Napped (no obvious top/bottom) — two asterisk

    The Yardage Chart

    Scan of a sewing pattern envelope, focused on the yardage amounts for sewing a particular garment in a particular size. Sizes 16-20 are highlighted, as well as the 45 inch and 60 inch yardage width.

    Before approaching the yardage chart, have your size on hand (as picked out on the size chart.)

    Example: based on the size chart, I range between 16 and 20, so I’m focusing on those three sizes.

    Isolate out what specific design you’re focusing on to start breaking down how much yardage you’d need. For B designs, look at areas defined by the B, etc.

    Dress Fabric

    Continuing the example above, if the fabric I’ve found on Mood or at Joann’s is 45 inches wide… I’ll buy anywhere between 6.5 and 6.75 yards of fabric (!) If the fabric I’ve found is 60 inches wide… I’ll want to buy 4.5 to 4.60 yards, based on the size ranges 16 through 20 on the example pattern.

    NOTE: If you’re a beginner, I would air on the larger amount. This helps make sure you have enough fabric to work with. If you’ve been sewing for a while, you might want to do less based on what you normally use. In my case, I’m short and have to shorten *all* my pieces, so I stick to the lower number.

    Additional Materials by Size

    Same considerations as above. Find your size range on the chart to determine how much material to purchase. 

    Learn how to pick fabric for clothes with this video tutorial, explaining how to approach your fabric search! | Vintage on Tap, Pinup Sewing Blog

    Once you know how to read a sewing pattern envelope, SO MANY doors are unlocked.

    At this point you can work with all printed sewing patterns and reading PDF pattern information as well. 
    Knowing what you’re looking at, deciphering what the envelope is saying ramps up your sewing experience.

    Many beginner sewing questions are answered on the envelope. Taking the time to read and analyze the information there goes a long way.

    I highly recommend a related video regarding Beginner Sewing Challenges, linked below:

    Sewing is a Journey all its Own, Learning the “Sewing Language” will Help!

    I hope these tips and video have helped demystify some of the Sewing Language, so you can get stitching right away, making beautiful garments!