Category: Simplicity

How to Sew a Beautiful Vintage 1950s Peplum
After two years away (and a rough 2020) I knew it was time to return to the blogosphere with the garment which started it all: Simplicity 1460. In this post, we’ll be chatting about how to sew a 1950s peplum in all it’s gorgeousness, from the new and improved VoT HQ!

Watching the original video I filmed in 2016 (!!) and reading about this vintage pattern again made me incredibly nostalgic.

It wasn’t just me looking at photos of this blouse. It was being reminded of why I love blogging and sewing on camera. Of why I kicked off this project in the first place.

The vintage blouse which started my YouTube channel, throwback to 2016.

It reminded me of why I like to talk about vintage sewing and advocate for it so much.

Click the video above to watch the full breakdown of how to sew a 1950s Peplum!

Here are my tips on how to sew this vintage blouse:

Fitting can be a challenge with this piece.

All in all, I spent nearly 15 hours attempting multiple fitting techniques around a full bust adjustment, leading me to settle with the fit seen in this piece.

The final fit was a compromise, which is disappointing with 20+ years sewing experience! Challenges with fit for my size included:
- Doing an FBA on a French double dart (I recommend splitting the FBA across both darts!)
- Finding the right positioning for my bust point (I recommend measuring from the shoulder point down to get the best fit)
- Allowing enough ease for the button placket at the center front (it’s better to have extra overlap at the placket than not enough)
The neckline on this vintage peplum blouse is extremely beautiful!

To achieve the desired scallop effect, sew carefully around the facing:
- Slowly sew around each facing piece, picking up the presser foot to adjust the fabric as needed to maintain a smooth curve
- If part of the stitch line is too straight, unpick and do that curve again! Because the curves are prominent around the neck, they’re highly visible. A stitch line which isn’t smooth will be obvious
- Trim and clip all seam allowances to ensure that turning the facing inside-out will display a smooth curve
When learning how to sew a 1950s peplum – or any peplum for that matter! – take care to stay stitch the top curve to make sure it doesn’t warp!

By sewing a simple stitch line across the top (at around ¼”) you can prevent the delicate peplum curve from being pulled and stretched. The pulling can (and will!) distort its grain, making it difficult to match up to the bodice.

The last tip is around the buttons in this piece! The pattern calls for three buttons, but I added four for extra protection and insure a comfortable fit for me.

Feel free to modify any pattern with additional buttons as needed. Remember that in most cases, button count is a suggestion, not a hard fast rule.

Sewing a vintage 1950s peplum is not complicated- it’s actually a lot of fun to make such a flattering piece!

In the comments below, please let me know if you’ve made this pattern before or if you’ve ever revisited an old sewing pattern with fresh eyes!

I would love to know how that went for you and if there was anything that stood out as you tackled it again!
February 20, 2021
How to Sew Simplicity 1364, Video Tutorial!

The difference between View A and View B of Simplicity 1364 might look slight, but the styles behave very differently in fabric.

To be quite honest, I have mixed feelings about this top.

If you’re embarking on sewing this blouse, I have to be honest about all these conflicting thoughts. On one hand, I think its quite a comfortable, easy sew. On the other hand, the long sleeve version left a lot to be desired.

If I were to make this again, I would stick to the sleeveless version (View B.)

The problem with Simplicity 1364 came down to one thing: the 1960s cut just didn’t agree with me.

If you had the opportunity to watch my fitting video about this blouse, everything seemed to be going fine.

After doing some pattern drafting magic, I was able to get a nice and comfortable, wearable fit on the bodice.

I loved how it looked and felt on me. Even the slightly too-open neck on me was passable. Heck, I thought the slightly-off-shoulder shoulder line was just “part of the style.”

The long sleeve version, though, was a reminder the placement of a seamline can sometimes make or break a pattern for my frame- and as you can see in the images, the off-the-shoulder sleeve wasn’t particularly flattering on me.

My shoulder peak is literally at the edge of the facing. And you can tell.

Add to that, but the weight of the sleeve pulls the shoulder seam down even further. I created mutton sleeves without meaning to.

I would still sew the View B version of Simplicity 1364 again.

Closing in the neckline (covered in a previous post) is a simple drafting fix and the blouse is super versatile.

The long sleeve version, probably avoiding unless I wanted to put in more time into pattern drafting.

If you’re tackling vintage Simplicity 1364, head my warnings above, but otherwise carry on!

Realistically speaking, the top is a comfortable beginner pattern. But, there’s room for opportunity for improvement on it, if you want to take it there.

Step One: Bodice Darts.

If you had to do an insane FBA as I did, you may need to trim your darts after sewing and pressing. I used a rayon challis in my maroon version, and decided to leave about 5/8in seam allowance on that trim.

Step Two: Sleeve darts.

Darts! On sleeves! How fun is that?

You don’t often see darts on sleeves unless they’re on a sloper, but I love the small detail. Be sure to press the darts in the correct direction. Pressed down and you have a comfortable fitting sleeve. Pressed up and it can rub against your elbow annoyingly as you move.

Step Three: Finish with luxe details

I opted for the following “upgrades” because I love being Extra about my sewing. I hand hemmed my blouse, and whipped stitched all my seam allowances.

Also, if you have more of a curvy figure, I would definitely recommend making the waist tie– it really helps avoid the “sack” look.

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Have you considered making this blouse? Do you like the off-the-shoulder seamline? Would you adjust it, like I’m planning on doing?

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June 21, 2017
Sewing Tips for Vintage Simplicity 1460, with Video!
Vintage Simplicity sewing patterns are definitely some of my favorites.

A while back I stumbled on an absolute vintage gem from 1948, “Pattern for Smartness” which totally endeared me to Simplicity. The video was an advertisement, but honestly, the campy, “wholesome” vibe is one of my favorite aspects of vintage life.

Dipping your toe into vintage Simplicity 1460 definitely sends you to the 1950s with its pretty peplum.

Peplums do a phenomenal job of nipping you in at the waist and then flaring at the hips, which look great on people with short torsos like myself. I originally found this pattern a few years ago and was super excited to try it for my first pinup sewing video.

The fabrics recommended for this pattern are below:
- Light-to-midweight cottons and linens
- Brocade
- Cotton Lawn
- Cotton types
- Crepe
- Crepe de Chine
- Dupioni
- Shantung
- Lace
- Sateen
- Satin
- Voile
To keep it simple for this sewing video and to make this quickly, I went with a midweight cotton for both versions of this peplum. If I were to make this again, I would definitely push myself more towards cotton lawn, woven eyelet fabrics, or even voile for a more delicate, less structured look, all with a silk camisole underneath (I’m thinking something like the Seamwork Savannah.)

Tip #1: Watch the pattern ease!

The biggest complaint I read before starting to sew vintage Simplicity 1460 was that there was a huge amount of wearing ease- and I can confirm it 100%.

For vintage styles and modern pinup styles, huge wearing ease can be a style faux-pas, and with silhouette-hugging style such as this vintage Simplicity, its something you want to avoid (while also avoiding gaping buttonholes!)

Decide on your size using the measurements on the pattern paper, not the measurements on the pattern envelope. In my case, I wanted to be mindful of any full bust adjustments that might be necessary so I picked my size based on my high bust with an inch of ease, and then did my adjusting as necessary. I speak to this at timestamp 1:20 in my video.

Tip #2: Decide early on how long you want the peplum to be.

Luckily, I only shortened my peplum just slightly, based off my height of 5’2″. I don’t see myself making the tunic length; it would probably make me look shorter than I already am!

If you’re taller, you can definitely lengthen both the torso of the bodice and the peplum evenly, to keep the right proportions all around.

There were plenty of people in the sewing community who lengthened the peplum into a full skirt, transforming this into a vintage dress. Please be mindful that the peplum is essentially a short circle skirt attached to a bodice: and lengthening the peplum will make for a lot more fabric used and will require extra reinforcements on the waistline, such as a grosgrain ribbon waist stay (discussed in my Vintage Vogue 8789 video, timestamp 9:25)

Tip #3: Practice your Sewing 101 Basics

Darts and buttonholes, while used extensively in garment sewing, really take center stage.

This pattern features double french darts, beautifully curved darts that aren’t sewn in a straight line, discussed at timestamp 5:20 in the video.

Buttonholes, because they are literally front and center, can really make or break the look of this piece. In both instances of this blouse, I used a busy fabric which (thankfully) disguised my wonky buttonholes. Be mindful that taking some time to practice your buttonholes will ensure that this vintage blouse looks perfect!

I hope the above tips help you when you jump into making this blouse!

What sort of fabric would you use if you were to make vintage Simplicity 1460? How do you see yourself styling it for that perfect pinup outfit?

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March 7, 2016