Tag: viscose

  • Vintage Simplicity 8252 Winter Dress

    Vintage Simplicity 8252 Winter Dress

    Simplicity 8252, chiffon and crepe fabric | @vintageontap

    Admiring the lights on Fremont Street, Vintage Simplicity 8252 | @vintageontap

    Minor adjustments! Simplicity 8252 | @vintageontap

    Simplicity 8252 pinup dress, back view | @vintageontap

    Simplicity 8252 vintage dress | @vintageontap

    Pinup girl casual evening, Las Vegas, Simplicity 8252 | @vintageontap

    Simplicity 8252, vintage fur coat, pinup girl in Las Vegas | @vintageontap

    Simplicity 8252 is beautiful- but your sewing experience will be tested. 

    I haven’t had a love-hate relationship with a pattern since Butterick B5814 earlier this year– and that’s saying something. With my cocktail dress back in April, there was a lot of blood, sweat, and tears as I sat at my sewing machine for hours and hours, fiddling with boning and uncooperative fabric. Full disclosure- my YouTube vid on B5814 definitely had its share of struggles. Simplicity 8252 was in that same vein, except not as dramatic. Ok well—- maybe a little dramatic.

    The bright side is that Simplicity 8252 is beautiful and the struggle was worth it. I bought this pattern to kick off the holiday season here in the United States but unfortunately, even though I started it back in November, it’s barely finished! The fabrics selected are absolutely outside the norm for vintage-casual. I chose a viscose crepe and polyester chiffon in the color way “moss/nutmeg” from Berkeley’s Stonemountain and Daughter Fabrics. To be honest, I think my main struggles came from the fussy-ness of the fabrics.

    The pattern itself was relatively straight forward to adjust to my measurements. On the dress itself, I performed a FBA, rotating some of the dart fullness to the center pleats. Looking back, I should have also lowered the pleats further down the center front. I also changed the side seam darts to French darts to accommodate my lower bust. For both the redingote and dress I did a swayback adjustment, shortened the torso and skirt length. If you follow me on Instagram and watch my Stories, I did a short series of snaps back in November showing each one of the changes in action (make sure to follow me on IG to not miss out future tutorials!)

    The instructions for Simplicity 8252 were written in a pretty straight forward way, which was a blessing since I spent the majority of time fighting with the fabric. The viscose crepe unraveled an insane amount and was prone to stretching out all around, even with stay stitching. Looking back on it, I should have underlined the entire thing and used organza to stabilize it. After I stitched up the entire dress, I actually had to take apart the side seams in order to take it in, since it had stretched a lot in the width, too. Add to that that I don’t own an overlock machine and finished all the seams with rayon seam binding, sewed in by hand (yikes!)

    The chiffon redingote was all finished up with French seams and slip stitches throughout to wrap up any exposed seams. Unfortunately…

    Accidental cut into my Simplicity 8252 | @vintageontap

    I cut into the main fabric when I was trimming a seam. When this happened, the piece was too far into the entire finished garment that it was too late to turn back and resew that piece. Goes to show that no matter how experienced you are, mistakes happen. In a moment of REALNESS, I got emotional, put the redingote away, and couldn’t look at it for at least 24h. But, the show must go on. Slapped a belt on it and as Tim Gunn says, Made it Work.

    Simplicity 8252, completed vintage dress | @vintageontap

    Now that December is over and done with, I can put it in rotation in January. But I’m glad that in the end it worked out.

    Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links :)


    Do you like what you see?

    Never miss a post by following me on Bloglovin’!
    Or go mobile- I’m on Instagram, YouTube, and Snapchat (?vintageontap)!
  • Tips for Sewing a Cocktail Dress, with video!

    Tips for Sewing a Cocktail Dress, with video!

    Butterick B5814, Cocktail Dress | @vintageontap

    Embarking on sewing a cocktail dress is an exciting process!

    The possibilities of stitching up your very own cocktail dress are absolutely endless. Things that you can dive into are…

    • What luxurious fabric do you want to use?
    • What sort of embellishments will you like to incorporate?
    • Vintage inspired or more modern?
    • What sort of silhouette?
    • What SHOES are going to go with it? (had to throw in something fun!)

    Without a doubt, it’s extremely easy to fall into a rabbit hole planning out the process for an exciting cocktail dress!

    This blog post discusses sewing a cocktail dress, and some of the biggest tips and tricks I learned from making my own. In this case, I made Butterick B5814, a Patterns by Gertie design released in 2012.

    Butterick B5814, Cocktail Dress | @vintageontap

    Tip #1: Select your fabric with care.

    Depending on your sewing level, this is one of the biggest factors in sewing a successful cocktail dress. The fabric will determine things like:

    • The sewing tools you use (see my list of recommended tools here!)
    • Your sewing machine settings
    • Pre-sewing fabric preparation (eg. the silkier the fabric, the more finicky, which will mean sewing more slowly!)

    Special considerations have to made to interior fabrics and materials as well!  

    As long as you’re mindful about the materials you’re using and how they operate, your sewing experience will go swimmingly. For example, for my Butterick B5814 cocktail dress, I decided to use a lovely acetone/viscose Italian crepe. It had a silky hand, medium weight, but was also difficult to work with because there was a slight stretch to it, was flimsy, and unravelled easily.

    Due to the volatile nature of the fabric I chose for this dress, I had to go out of my way with additional sewing techniques, including marking all my notches with tailor’s tacks to maintain the integrity of the fabric.

    Don’t know why tailor’s tacks are VITAL for delicate fabric? Click the link below to learn more about tailor’s tacks in sewing.

    Learn how and why to use Tailor's Tacks in your sewing process! | Vintage on Tap

    Butterick B5814, Cocktail Dress | @vintageontap

    Butterick B5814, Cocktail Dress, sunny day on the rooftop of the Fairmont in San Francisco | @vintageontap

    Tip #2: The interior of your cocktail dress should get as much care as the exterior.

    It’s very easy to say, “No one is going to see the inside- who cares?!” but when sewing your cocktail dress, the interior is just as integral as the exterior.

    For example, for Butterick B5814, I wanted to keep and maintain the quintessential pinup dress look, which meant some additional pre-planning.

    Changes I made include:

    • Spiral steel boning throughout the bodice (not the plastic boning that was suggested in the pattern)
    • Bra carriers to hide my bra in the dolman sleeves
    • Reinforcement at the neckline with bias strips to keep the neck from stretching through wear
    • Underlining throughout

    The final two points for my pinup cocktail dress were not included as part of the original pattern. However, because I was using some super luxe fabric, taking preemptive measures to care for the interior is key to a sturdy dress!

    To learn how to both reinforce the neckline with bias strips AND to underline your cocktail dress, be sure to check out a tutorial video I did on this topic. The sewing techniques are incorporated into a Butterick B5603 holiday dress. The sewing tips covered in that video 100% apply to your cocktail dress!

    How to Sew a Pinup Holiday Dress! Video Tutorial and sewing tips | Vintage on Tap

    Butterick B5814, Cocktail Dress at the Fairmont Hotel in San Francisco | @vintageontap

    Butterick B5814, Cocktail Dress, dramatic posing! | @vintageontap

    Tip #3: Divide your work into manageable chunks.

    My Butterick B5814 had… 50 individual steps. Not including cutting fabrics, boning, and prepping all additional notions.

    Having reasonable expectations of how long things take will keep you motivated and focused. 

    If you’re making a cocktail dress for the very first time, beware of the following workflow:

    Of course, each of the above steps will take longer or shorter depending on your sewing experience, but be sure to be mindful of the process! Projects started on a whim have a tendency to have a mind of their own, and a successful garment isn’t guaranteed when worked on in a hurry.

    Butterick B5814, Cocktail Dress, bust detailing | @vintageontap

    Butterick B5814, Cocktail Dress, waist detailing | @vintageontap

    Butterick B5814, Cocktail Dress, back view | @vintageontap

    If you’re tackling Butterick B5814…

    The dolman sleeves are super tricky. After 5 muslins, they still were slipping and sliding. I had to rely heavily on the bra carriers, not just to hide bra straps, but to also help hold up the sleeves.

    Also, the gathered attachment at the waist is tricky to stitch through, at ten layers deep (!!) Switch sewing needles to something more industrial, and hand crank through the layers to attach them.

    Interested in buying this pattern? Click the image below!

    Butterick B5815 cocktail dress! Learn to make this at home with my video tips!

    Butterick B5814, Cocktail Dress, dramatic angle | @vintageontap

    Butterick B5814, Cocktail Dress, sitting in the Fairmont Hotel | @vintageontap

    Butterick B5814, Cocktail Dress | @vintageontap

    Subscribe to Vintage on Tap on YouTube!

    Pin this Post!!

    Sewing Tips for Sewing a Cocktail Dress. Tips and tricks to make a beautiful dress! | Vintage on Tap

    Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links :)

    All the Places, All the Stuff!

    Never miss a post by following me on Bloglovin’!
    Or go mobile- I’m on Instagram and YouTube!
    New to sewing? Check out the Start Here page!