Tag: pattern drafting

  • Petite Pattern Adjustments for Fuller Figures

    Petite Pattern Adjustments for Fuller Figures

    Petite adjustments aren’t difficult! To achieve the right fit, it’s all about knowing where to look on a sewing pattern to make them possible.

    Knowing which areas are important for Petite adjustments is half the battle.

    Let’s break down the biggest differences between regular Misses’ sewing patterns and Petite sewing patterns:

    Croquis showing the difference between Misses and Petite sizing, specifically to dive into petite pattern adjustments

    The average Petite person is usually around 5’2”, with most Misses’ sewing patterns drafted for 5’5”. Imagine those differences split across the form proportionally. 

    These Petite adjustments usually need to drafted across *multiple* areas on a sewing pattern.

    Watch for these areas where petite adjustments should be taken into account:

    • The distance between shoulder points (to account for a narrower frame)
    • The distance between shoulder and bust point, down the body (to account for bodice height)
    • The distance between bust point and waist (to account for bodice height)
    • The distance between waist and knees (to account for overall height)
    • The distance between knees and ankles (to account for overall height)

    To illustrate this, let’s see how this manifests in a real bodice.

    NOTE: I’m 5’2”, DD-cup, and wear a size L/XL.

    Close up of a bodice, before having completed Petite adjustments.
    Close up of a bodice, before having completed Petite adjustments.
    Close up of a bodice at three-quarters view, before having completed Petite adjustments.
    Close up of a bodice, before having completed Petite adjustments.

    In the above sample piece, you can see a few areas which stand out:

    • The shoulder points are too wide (by over an inch!) so the sleeveless shoulders stick out past my body
    • The entire area above the bust point is exposed at the arm scythe (note how much fabric billows out, exposing foundation garments)
    • The bottom of the arm scythe is also too low
    • The waist has been hacked to be higher (see my previous video with this sample dress), but was originally over 2.5” too low. Even with the previous hacky adjustment, it’s still too baggy.

    The recommended Petite adjustments below will help tackle those issues.

    Narrow Shoulder Adjustment [Timestamp 05:13]

    This adjustment brings the shoulder points closer to the center point of the body, more in line with a Petite person. There are a couple different ways to do this adjustment, one which involves taking out width from the shoulder corner itself (demonstrated in the video) and another which notches and pivots the corner. Both options are worth exploring, so definitely experiment with which way works for you!

    Shorten the distance from bottom of the arm scythe to shoulder [Timestamp 06:43]

    The distance from the top of the shoulder to the arm scythe tends to be longer in Misses sizes. For Petite adjustments, identify that distance with your muslin, pinching out an equal amount from arm scythe to center front. Once you have that number, you can slash and overlap your pattern pieces for a better fit above the bust to the shoulder.

    Raise the arm scythe, if needed.

    Depending on the depth of the arm scythe (or if it was as drastically low as in the example images,) redraw a higher arm scythe, making sure it matches the back of the pattern by walking the pattern.

    Redraw the waist/shorten the bodice under the bust [Timestamp 07:58]

    Check your personal measurements from bust point to waist and adjust the waist height accordingly. In the example pattern, because it was a simple trapeze style, I could redraw the waistline. For more fitted bodices, slash and overlap the needed distance.

    After completing the above changes, my updated pattern with Petite adjustments looked substantially better. 

    Close up of a bodice, after having completed Petite adjustments.
    Close up of a bodice, after having completed Petite adjustments.
    Close up of a bodice, after having completed Petite adjustments.

    Knowing where your body’s measurements sit in relationship to the pattern block will save you *so much* stress, especially if you have to do Petite adjustments. 

    Taking time to understand where a sewing pattern should be shortened or taken in, you can more confidently identify where Petite issues will occur.

    This is particularly useful if shopping ready to wear: you know ahead of time when a garment isn’t fitting right off the hanger. 

    Hand close up, holding a sewing pattern that says Dress Front in pink highlighter

    And remember, just because you have a large bust or waist doesn’t mean you’re not Petite. Make sure to make a muslin to double check!

    Learn about Petite Sewing Adjustments for people who are a larger size. The image has a close up of a bodice of a floral dress, with text overlaid on top.

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  • Intro to Dart Rotation, a Quick Sewing Overview

    Intro to Dart Rotation, a Quick Sewing Overview

    When I first learned about dart rotation, my mind was blown.

    I distinctly remember my thoughts were something along the lines of…

    “…wait- I can change the pattern like that?! What?! How? THIS IS GOING TO BE HARD!”

    I’ve lived through it- survived it- and let me tell you: it’s a piece of cake.

    Intro to Dart Rotation, Sewing Overview | Vintage on Tap

    Dart rotation is a reminder that a pattern piece can be anything you want it to be, so change those darts how you see fit. 

    The “standard” sloper usually has one dart, with most patterns rocking two darts on a basic bodice.

    Of course, the amount of darts in fashion design are plenty.

    • Regular plain darts
    • French darts
    • Shoulder darts
    • Shoulder gathers
    • Dart tucks
    • Waist tucks
    • Princess seams
    • Aaaaand more!

    Full disclosure: there are still quite a lot of darts/gathers/tucks that I haven’t tried sewing yet– the concept is generally the same for all.

     Intro to Dart Rotation, dart placement lines | Vintage on Tap

    You can rotate a dart anywhere on your pattern that makes sense for you and for your design.  

    There is one general “rule” to keep in mind though. However, the more you practice dart rotation, the more you may be comfortable to break the rule down the road.

    The main rule is…

    The bust point should/must/has to end about 1in away (A, B cup)/2in+ (C cup and above) from your bust point. The larger the cup size, the further the distance your bust point should end.

    For example, if you move your dart to the shoulder, as long as the dart ends the designated distance from your bust point, you’ll be good to go.

    Note that this is less of a concern if you have to change your dart to a gather, just as I did for my vintage-style slip.

    Dart rotation on a Vintage Slip sewing pattern | @vintageontap

    After completing an FBA, the bust dart was too much of a point and wasn’t flattering. I changed the dart to a gather, “softening” the dart which made much more sense for the design and for my body. (Read more about the process over my vintage slip blog post.)

    Other examples of dart rotation and dart manipulation include…

    Vintage Vogue V8789

    Vintage sewing, Vogue V8789, dart rotation tutorial | Vintage on Tap

    For this piece, after doing a full bust adjustment, I rotated my dart to a single waist dart to keep the design intact. The waist dart now included enough fullness for my full bust.

    Vintage Butterick B6282

    Flags of the World Challenge, 1940s Vintage B6282 | Vintage on Tap

    In this vintage piece, I completed a full bust adjustment and then rotated my darts out to the shoulder and waist, to keep the integrity of the gathered 1940s style.

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    Grosgrain ribbon waist stay and interior reinforcement, Vogue 8789 | Vintage on Tap

    Dart rotation and dart placement for fuller chested people requires some additional care

    As much as I wish this weren’t the case, further considerations must be taken with dart rotation if you’re rocking a C-cup or above.

    Questions to consider include…

    • Does the dart accurately point to the bust point?
    • Does the angle or shape of the dart actually cup the breast in a way that makes sense?
    • Does the placement of the new dart highlight or detract from the chest area? (Depends on how much attention you want there.)
    • Does the dart make sense as a gather?
    • Do the ladies have ample space to breathe?

    Shoulder detail, vintage 1940s B6282 | Vintage on Tap

    Not all darts are created equal and not all darts will work with your body shape.

    Don’t be intimidated by changing up the garment design to make the dart work for you and your body! I know it can be intimidating to change a design, but remember you’re (usually) working from a pattern that is made to be altered to work for you.

    As long as you’re mindful of having a nice distance between dart end point and your full bust, move your dart around as you see fit.

    Intro to Dart Rotation | Vintage on Tap

    Have you tried rotating a dart? What was the hardest part? Is there a specific dart you’re stumbling with right now?


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  • Completed: Dirndl Skirt

    Completed: Dirndl Skirt

    Dirndl Skirt, 50s retro style | @vintageontap

    Dirndl Skirt with Goorin Brothers Hat | @vintageontap

    Dirndl Skirt, hand picked zipper | @vintageontap

    Dirndl Skirt, pattern pieces | @vintageontap

    Dirndl Skirt, 50s Fashion | @vintageontap

    Dirndl Skirt, 50s Inspired | @vintageontap

    Dirndl Skirt, self drafted 50s style skirt | @vintageontap

    The dirndl skirt is a wardrobe staple.

    Using fabric I had in my stash (one of which I picked up in the LA garment district)- I sewed up a couple dirndl skirts to continue filling the holes in my closet. Silhouette 1 for The Colette Wardrobe Architect is complete!

    Happily, the dirndl skirt is a pretty straight forward design; I was able to draft the pattern in less than an hour and sew both skirts super quickly. Basic rectangle waistband and gathered rectangles. Lots of hand stitching at the waistband, hem, and handpicked zipper help give these skirts the little construction details I love to admire.

    It was also very nice to make pieces like these, because they were a nice break from longer, more complicated projects which, while rewarding, can be a time suck! Both skirts were whipped up casually over two evenings and a few episodes of The Walking Dead. Now that the pattern pieces are drafted out, I’ll be making more for daily use. I may lengthen the skirt, though– as these hit me just slightly above the knee; I could go with a little bit more of a tea-length.

    For the photos I wore the Astoria sweaters I made a few weeks back which are coming in handy all the time. These sorts of skirts the sweaters tuck in really easily which helps give that small-waist visual effect.

    The petticoat I used for these photos was from The Black Ribbon and is MAXIMUM poof. Designed for EGL, it made me feel like a cupcake (which I loved.) The chiffon used to make it is amazingly soft and light weight, and packs really well. I haven’t ever had a problem with this loosing its poof and its super easy to wash. Highly recommend if you’re looking for a workhorse petticoat! And for size reference, I’m 5-foot 2-inches tall.

    I have a couple more versions of this dirndl skirt I want to sew, but those will come when I have time!