The process of how to redraft a facing is pretty straight forward- don’t let it intimidate you!
If you’re anything like me, you may have to do a bunch of changes to a sewing pattern before it fits properly. A wedge here, a tuck there; eventually your bodice ends up looking only vaguely similar to the original sewing pattern.
Somehow, by the blessing of the Sewing Machine Gods, you’re somehow supposed to eek out a lining or a facing that matches that new pattern piece and it needs to look good.
Full Bust Adjustments can be brutal; learning how to redraft a facing doesn’t have to be.
Last week on Instagram I posted the above photo: the before and after mutation of my Butterick B6453 Sew Along bodice. In its final form, it looked extremely different than the original and the princess seam was only vaguely similar to the starting pattern.
I did a 2+ inch Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) for my B6453, which resulted in a super exaggerated curve on my princess seam.
The original facing pieces are not going to work with my adjusted bodice pieces.
The original facing pieces are drafted to be an exact copy of the original bodice pieces
The original pattern itself is drafted to a B-cup; I am a DD-cup, meaning the entire structure of the facings would be too small overall.
Changes to the bodice neckline/arm area (or really, just any area that is to mirror the facing) have to be translated over to the facing.
Getting started in how to redraft a facing is super simple and quick.
You will need some super basic drafting tools:
- Rulers (clear straight ruler, french curve)
- Dot paper (or tracing paper)
- Mechanical pencil and eraser
Also take a few minutes to watch my relevant the Youtube videos:
How to Redraft a Facing
- Trace off your readjusted pattern pieces
- Identify the pattern stitch lines along the areas where the facing will be drawn
- Decide how deep you want your facing pieces to be
- Measure down from the stitch line your desired facing depth, following stitch line in facing area
- Use french curve to blend line
- Bianca note: I personally prefer a curved bottom edge on my facings, but if sewing curved hems and seams is difficult, you’re more than welcome to lessen the curve or make the facing bottom a straight line.
- Blend joining facing pieces
- Draw in appropriate seam allowances and copy over any notches
- Retrace your new redrafted facing pieces
Redrafting a new pattern piece from your adjusted pieces is actually super quick and simple to do. In my example in the video, I went with a 3inch facing, but a 2inch facing might be more appropriate for your project. Also, I preferred a curved bottom edge, but lessing the bottom curve or making it a straight line is ok, too. The important part, though, is dealing with the seam allowances and making the facing blend properly with the surrounding pieces.